1970s Style Cast Iron Gear Case Dissassembly - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 14 Old 01-13-2014, 11:28 AM Thread Starter
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1970s Style Cast Iron Gear Case Dissassembly

Seems pictures of these things and breakdown directions are few and far between. I suppose that means they hold up pretty well. I did a small write up on another forum a while back and figured I could post some of that info over here.

This is from a 1977 924xxx series. I am sure most of these older gear boxes were the same though. I had a couple of these. One had bad gears and I took it apart as a trial run. The second had great gears, but the impeller shaft seal was leaking. I only took pictures of the bad gear one, but the other was the same inside.

Ignore the mess on the floor of some of these pictures. There was an "incident".

This was done on 3/14/2011 so I didn't get picture of everything and I might have forgotten something since then.

The impeller shaft is 3/4" and the auger shaft 1".

A little tip I found for Ariens part numbers, when searching add (1) 0 before the number and (2) 0s after. 56061 = 05606100
For the rare 4 digit numbers it is 2 before and 2 after. 3003 = 00300300.
I was using the old service manual, apparently the Ariens parts radar site now lists the updated part numbers.

For the parts order I used Lawn Mower Parts -- they don't directly list many parts, but typing in part numbers into their search box brings them up. I think they are special order parts, but they do list them.

05606100 for the auger seals.
01010800 for the gearcase gasket.
05802200 for the rollpin for the gear.
05503500 for the bronze bushings.
05606200 for the impeller seal.

The roller bearings were very common sizes and I ordered them from VXB Bearring through Amazon. I paid $11.54 for both, apparently the price has doubled since then.
LM11949/LM11910 Taper Bearing 3/4 x 1.781 x 0.6550 inch Taper

I didn't get the impeller off because I couldn't find the right size punch for the roll pins. The good news is you can change the bearings and the seal for the impeller shaft from the front and leave the impeller on there.

During the rebuild of the leaking one I replaced the impeller shaft seal, both auger shaft seals, both auger shaft bushings, both impeller shaft bearings / races, the cover gasket and the roll pin to hold the gear to the auger shaft. I figured with the work involved I might as well replace everything inside, but in reality I think all I needed was the impeller seal. The auger gear roll pin got mutilated during removal so that was a goner.

First, this is what we are working with.


Separate the tractor from the snow scoop. I don't have any pictures of this, but unhook the chute crank rod. Remove the belt cover. Take the auger belt off the engine pulley. Remove the (2) 3/4" bolts off the top of the scoop. Pivot the handles down and then lift the scoop off of the connecting rod.

Remove the pulley from the back of the bucket. Mine had 2 set screws.


Remove the bushings from the outside of the auger bucket.


Remove the assembly from the bucket.


Remove the augers from the assembly. Be careful not to mix them up as left and right matter as well as top and bottom.


Drain the oil. You have 2 plugs in the case.

Remove the cover from the gear case. It should have 5 small bolts.




Remove the roll pin that holds the gear to the auger shaft. This proved to be trickier than one would think. According to the service manual you are suppose to be able to stick a punch in through one of the oil drain/fill plugs and drive it straight out. In practice I found it to be slightly too long and was hitting the impeller shaft after getting most of the way out. I mutilated mine and had to replace it. I think I put the new one in through one of the drain plugs.

Once the pin is out the auger shaft should slide right out.


Once the auger shaft is out of the way the gear will pivot out from behind the impeller shaft gear.




There is a special tool for removing the adjustment plug. I used a flat screwdriver with a hammer to tap it loose then rolled it around the impeller shaft.


Now the impeller shaft should pull out. It will require a bit of effort as the bearing race will be pressed it, but mine wasn't bad.






I don't remember how I got the other bearing race out. I think possibly I used a socket inside the gearcase and a large C-clamp to press it out. Either way with all the oil inside there it wasn't too bad.

As for getting the impeller seal and the roller bearing off the shaft, all you have to do is knock the roll pin out of the spacer between the bearings and then tap them off of the shaft with a hammer. I believe this hammering was my reasoning behind replacing the roller bearings since I ended up hammering on the outer races.



Last edited by Shryp; 01-13-2014 at 11:32 AM.
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post #2 of 14 Old 01-13-2014, 11:35 AM
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I see that you have two different boots on? did you clean all that gross stuff of every thing?? in all it sure looks pretty in there. ALOHA!!!
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post #3 of 14 Old 01-13-2014, 03:11 PM Thread Starter
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I see that you have two different boots on? did you clean all that gross stuff of every thing?? in all it sure looks pretty in there. ALOHA!!!
Same boots. The "incident" referenced just involved dumping my used oil container down my pant leg, all over my boot and all over the floor. The gearbox I put back together was all cleaned up and painted before assembly. I had the used oil container sitting next to my work space to catch any left over oil they might have been dripping. Then I knocked the assembly off the jack stands, spun it around and smashed in the side of my container and caused a small volcano.
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post #4 of 14 Old 03-29-2014, 11:09 PM
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What did you use as a lubricant when you put it all back together ??

Make sure the windows are up before the snow plow goes by !!
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post #5 of 14 Old 03-30-2014, 04:19 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kiss4aFrog View Post
What did you use as a lubricant when you put it all back together ??
I just used a generic 80w90 gear oil from Autozone. Was before I read about some gear oils possibly eating yellow metals, but luckily for me both gears are steel. The auger bushings are bronze, but hopefully they will be fine or at least I will notice some slop in them before anything breaks.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=561712_0_0_

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post #6 of 14 Old 03-30-2014, 04:52 PM
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Do you have any idea of what additive/chemical in the gear oil is detrimental to the yellow metals ??
Would it be better to use a grease like "00" that they use in riding mower transmissions ??
This thing made it 45 years and I'd like to do this rebuild once the best way I can and hopefully I'll be long gone by the time someone else needs to do it again.

Make sure the windows are up before the snow plow goes by !!
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post #7 of 14 Old 04-07-2014, 02:51 AM Thread Starter
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Best I can figure out is it is the sulfar that causes issues.

For a while some of the gearboxes were using 00 grease until they were able to properly seal them up to keep gear oils from leaking out.

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post #8 of 14 Old 05-27-2014, 08:00 AM
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My vw have the same problem of oil heating synchro gear. You must use gl4 grar oil gl5 will heat brass gear.
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post #9 of 14 Old 02-23-2015, 04:26 PM
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What's the best lube for the outside auger shaft bushings? Do the grease zerks near the shear bolts force grease into them or do they need to be serviced. The bushing behind the large pulley, does that need to be serviced/lubed?
Nothing has ever been apart on my dads '67. Changed the gear lube a few times and keep the zerks pumped, so this spring might do some maintenance.
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post #10 of 14 Old 02-23-2015, 09:25 PM Thread Starter
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The impeller bearing between the impeller and large pulley is a ball bearing. It runs around $20 - 25. The auger shaft bushings don't get greased from the shear pin grease zerks. I squirt some motor oil on mine when I have them off, but I don't know if it matters much. They are suppose to be made of oil impregnated bronze and be self oiling.

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