Crary bearcat problemo - Page 3 - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #21 of 29 Old 11-05-2013, 08:57 AM
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While this sounds obvious check to make sure the pins are in the wheels and that the axle is not just spinning in the wheel.
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post #22 of 29 Old 11-05-2013, 11:39 AM Thread Starter
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Hey guys, pins are in the wheels so we can rule that out. Got home to late to fire up the machine last night but marked the pulley and the shaft this morning. fired it up and tried to get her to go. Provided i marked the right stuff the marks did not seperate. they still line up to where i put them. I've enlarged the pictures a little. Hope they are not to big now. Two pics. One of my marks after a test run and one of the sprocket behind the pulley.
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post #23 of 29 Old 11-05-2013, 11:40 AM Thread Starter
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thought i enlarged the pictures. will have to try again
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post #24 of 29 Old 11-05-2013, 01:51 PM
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I've never seen a blower like that or tranny, but I assume the tranny takes fluid/oil/grease??? Have you checked that. Just throwing out ideas. The transfer of power from the pulleys to the transmission could be stripped or a simple roll pin sheared hidden inside the transmission? Maybe enough friction to cause movement under no load, but not connected enough to drive under load. Spitballing I know I know on my old JD blower my drive axle appeared to be one solid shaft when in fact it was a shaft inside of a tube with little roll pins.
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post #25 of 29 Old 11-05-2013, 03:01 PM
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What about the pulley to the left of that one, did you mark it?
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post #26 of 29 Old 11-05-2013, 08:26 PM
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Just start at the output of the motor and check every link or connection in order till you get to the wheels. A pain but you will find it.
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post #27 of 29 Old 12-22-2013, 10:56 AM
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I own 4 similar machines. The thread seems to have gone stale by several weeks now, but I've noticed something worth looking into:

The diameter of the driven pulley in question has been altered over the years, to a smaller diameter on my most recent model. scrawnyronny's new belt might be too big if his supplier provided one spec'ed for the older units.

Going back and re-reading, it wasn't clear to me if the driven pulley was not being engaged (as a too-long-belt might cause), or if the pulley got up to speed correctly but resulted in no motion, at or after the gearbox.

Also, it was speculated in a previous post that the gearbox may have run out of oil. Many of these Peerless transmissions do not contain oil. On assembly they were packed with grease, which provided all the lubrication. They are usually pretty stout, even having been used in some riding mower applications.

Curious if the original poster finally got his machine back online...
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post #28 of 29 Old 12-27-2016, 01:49 AM
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I have a 624 and it is the same chassis as the 824. There is NO rubber wheel to drive this thing, rather it is a transmission with real gears in an enclosed housing. It's pretty bulletproof, but a roll pin on the output shaft may be broken. It's a pain to work on this thing, but it is straight forward. The machine has to be split and the cassette type transmission can be removed. I'd look first at the bevel drive on the outside of the case and see if you're missing the roll pin. If not, you'll have to split the case and get inside of it. I haven't done that, but this is a universal type transmission and is made for a variety of applications--it can be had, but I don't know where.
My unit is 25 years old and has been worked hard--just repowered it with a Harbor Freight 6.5 hp. engine. It's a really great machine! Can't find a manual for the thing anywhere.
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post #29 of 29 Old 12-30-2016, 03:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wes View Post
I have a 624 and it is the same chassis as the 824. There is NO rubber wheel to drive this thing, rather it is a transmission with real gears in an enclosed housing. It's pretty bulletproof, but a roll pin on the output shaft may be broken. It's a pain to work on this thing, but it is straight forward. The machine has to be split and the cassette type transmission can be removed. I'd look first at the bevel drive on the outside of the case and see if you're missing the roll pin. If not, you'll have to split the case and get inside of it. I haven't done that, but this is a universal type transmission and is made for a variety of applications--it can be had, but I don't know where.
My unit is 25 years old and has been worked hard--just repowered it with a Harbor Freight 6.5 hp. engine. It's a really great machine! Can't find a manual for the thing anywhere.
Does the H/F motor you used to re-power your machine have a 6:1 reduction?
I had to buy a Briggs OHV in order to re-power my 5/20.
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