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Old 08-21-2012, 06:51 PM   #1
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Default older drift breaker 536-918400

Hi everyone, I am new here and came across this forum while researching this monstrosity I just acquired. I am trying to figure out what year it was made. It looks like a late 70's early 80's to me. Not sure if it runs, but I did get it for free and everything does move freely and the engine seems to have good compression. Hoping to get it running this week. If anyone has any info on these and especially a manual that would be great.

John


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Old 08-21-2012, 07:18 PM   #2
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great find, i am sure it will work with some clean points, plug and ........if the gas hasnt gone bad requiring a carb rebuild........some fresh gas it will be great. i believe hcbph is the resident expert on the older craftsmans
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Old 08-22-2012, 06:30 PM   #3
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It appears to have been properly stored. There was no gas in it and the tank is very clean. Going to pick up gas after work tonight and try to start it tomorrow.
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Old 08-23-2012, 12:58 PM   #4
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Default Nice blower

Crash
You dog, free and it's one of the Good Ones!! (obviously that's humor - great machine)
I'm not home right now to check the manuals, but that should be around a mid 70's to early 80's.
You'll likely need a carb kit (most everyone does). Yours is just a smaller brother of this one:
Or this one

Things to watch - The transmission is hung from an 'intermediate' shaft. The 2 shoulder bolts that mount it to the tractor unit can come loose over time - not a good thing. Insure they're tight.

The axel and auger bushings are plastic (darn bean counters). I have a thread on how to convert it to roller bearings, check under maint heading.

Personally I don't like how the one handle controls both the auger and drive. I came up with a way to split those 2 controls but parts have to be made.
The main control cable isn't available from Sears, but it is still available. The chute cable isn't (at least I haven't found one).
If a cable end is broken, you can buy a replacement end from McMaster Carr.
Unfortunately alot of people don't maintain them properly. I've seen a number where the auger rakes are stuck to the shaft. Takes effort to get them off.
If you need to pull the auger apart, leave the impeller portion bolted to the tractor unit unless you're 1) a glutton for punishment or 2) extremely good at documenting. It's easier to pull the tranny, unbolt the auger pulley and remove it then unbolt the front section of the auger housing from the impeller portion and pull it apart that way. The part of the idler controls for the auger and drive are bolted in there and can be a bit fidgety if you mess them up. This way you don't have to touch them

That's the one I split the controls on.
Don't mess with the stator in the engine (under the flywheel) for the light unless you're willing to go through potentially retiming the engine (applies to all Tecumseh engines).
Here's one of mine (one of around 12) I've rebuilt that started similar to yours (but with a 32" auger) that I swapped down to a 26"

All the comparable 536 prefix machines are pretty much interchangable in parts (whether red & white or black & gray), the 5 hp and below vs the 7 hp and above. Virtually everything you'd need is available somewhere and that machine you have is a beast.
Let me know if you need any info (and I do have a manual that's close enough with a parts list). Just be aware in typical Sears fashion, the same part may be listed under multiple part numbers, with some listed as discontinued/unavailable while the same part may be available under another number.
Most of the ones I've bought have not had a skidpan on them, I ended up having to make them from scratch.

Hope that helps.
Paul

PS - if you want to read the thread on rebuilding that gray one, here's the link: http://restorationmen.lefora.com/201...-and-proceedi/

Last edited by HCBPH; 08-23-2012 at 04:09 PM.
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Old 08-24-2012, 01:40 PM   #5
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Thanks for the info and the link to the write up. I just got it started and it runs quite well. Augers and everything are moving. I will probably do the carb right away since I have to do the carb on my Airens also. The only problem i have found is that it does not "drive". I will have take it apart and see what is up with the transmission when it isn't so flipping hot out. I was surprised at how quickly it started. Hopefully this will be a fairly easy fix.

John
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Old 08-24-2012, 08:37 PM   #6
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Default Drive issues

There's not alot that can go wrong with the drive. Most likely the belt or a chain (assuming it's not in neutral). Take a look and if you can't figure it out, post some picture and we'll see if we can give some suggestions.

PS I do have pdf's of owners manuals for a 536.918300 (7 hp 24") and a 536.882702 (10 hp 32" 3 stage). If you want either of them, PM me an email address. They both are helpful on figuring out parts and adjustments.

Last edited by HCBPH; 08-25-2012 at 05:44 AM.
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Old 08-26-2012, 05:37 PM   #7
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I did take a peak in the back of it and the chain is in place and when it is not running and in gear it does not roll, so I am not to sure what the problem is. Going to have to dismantle further to get some pics and better idea.
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Old 08-26-2012, 07:16 PM   #8
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Default Drive diagnostics

John
Insure you don't have alot of gas in it and plan to put it into the maintenance position (Up and down vs horizontal). Remove the belt cover, remove both belts off the motor, you can leave them in the chassis for now. Put the transmission in gear and the machine into the maintenance position. I doubt you have a skidpan, if you do remove it. Try turning the pulley on the transmission by hand and the wheels should turn slowly.
The pulley is on the input shaft on the transmission. There's a key and 2 set screws on it. Output shaft from the transmission has a chain that goes to a double sprocket on the intermediate shaft. The other sprocket has a chain that goes to the sprocket on the axel. The wheels are bolts onto the axel.
Can't get much simpler than that. the transmission is a sealed unit so no maintenance there, all you need to lube is the double sprocket and the chains.
On the top side there's an idler for each the drive and auger belts.

Paul
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Old 08-27-2012, 12:21 AM   #9
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So, I just took off the back cover completely and found one of the belts was loose. Took off the front cover to see how hard it would be to change the belt and found the spring for the tensioner had come come off. Popped it back on and everything is tight again and tensions with the lever. The wheels did spin with the pulley being moved and that was the loose belt. It is bit late here to start it up to try it so it will have till wait till I am off shift on Tuesday but I am pretty sure it is going to work fine now. Thanks for all the input and help.
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Old 08-27-2012, 08:22 AM   #10
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Default Fix

Quote:
Originally Posted by crash*medic View Post
So, I just took off the back cover completely and found one of the belts was loose. Took off the front cover to see how hard it would be to change the belt and found the spring for the tensioner had come come off. Popped it back on and everything is tight again and tensions with the lever. The wheels did spin with the pulley being moved and that was the loose belt. It is bit late here to start it up to try it so it will have till wait till I am off shift on Tuesday but I am pretty sure it is going to work fine now. Thanks for all the input and help.
Don't you just love a cheap fix!
I didn't even think about the springs. If you need any in the future and you have a Fleet Farm in your area or a good hardware store. They're a fairly common item.

If you do have plastic bushings on the axel or auger shaft, check out that thread I mentioned on converting to flanged bearings. It makes a world of difference in the ability to roll it around and effort to move and blow snow. Cheap mod with alot of payback over the long run.

Last edited by HCBPH; 08-27-2012 at 08:34 AM.
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