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Old 09-21-2012, 03:46 AM   #1
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Default Roper 11-32

I just bought a used Roper 11-32 snow blower from a craigslist seller for $75.
It's has a Briggs 11hp engine, electric start, and a 32" auger. Seller said it was bought at Sears. The tag says model S1749AR. A search for S1749AR finds absolutely nothing. Engine code says manufactured in 1979. I had to clean the carb to get it running. Now runs fine.
I can't find any much online for this model. I did find a manual for a 8-26 that looks like a similar design. Anybody familiar with Roper snowblowers?
John
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Old 09-22-2012, 12:09 AM   #2
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Here's a pix of the drive parts in case anyone might recognize it as similar to another make.


I couldn't figure out how to edit the first post to add the picture.
John
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Old 09-22-2012, 09:09 PM   #3
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Default Roper blower

John

First off, welcome to the forum.

On the question on your blower's history etc, I have what I believe is a Roper Designed, Murray built, Craftsman labeled blower. It's labeled as a model 536.90515 - 7 HP 24".

It was in what I'd call poor shape when I got it. There were a number of missing parts when I got it and had to make. They were all relating to the tensioning of the friction wheel to the plate, the former owner had removed some of those pieces and misplaced them. I was able to get all the other normal wear parts were available through Sears with one exception. That one item was the friction disc - even that can be handled. Mine was a close match to a Toro 6", open the center hole a little on a metal lathe and redrill the mounting holes and you're back in business.

Hope that gives you something to think on, that's a good looking blower there.

Paul
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Old 09-23-2012, 12:06 AM   #4
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Nice job you did on that.
Right now everything is functioning . The belts and 2 idler pulleys appear well advanced into their service life. I may just take the belts off and match them up with some new ones. There is a switch missing that must have been a key switch. Closing the throttle grounds the same wire to shut it down, so I just removed the wire that was dangling for the missing switch. There's no switch for the light, if it's running, the lights on. The 8-24 manual, I found, has the same part number for both idler pulleys, but mine are different sizes. If I take the pulleys off to get the belts off I'll take a bunch of measurements so I can match them up with replacements. The friction disk part number in that manual does not crossref to anything available. I found one online that looks like it, but there's no way to tell if it will actually fit. They give an OD 6" and ID 3" that looks right and it appears to have the right bolt holes. The disk looks ok anyway. I have lubed everything except, I should check the gear oil in the auger differential.
I'm into this thing cus I just got it and had to work on it to get it running, but my other snowblower, an old MTD 5HP 24" 2 stage, has been working for 30 years and all I've done is cleaned the carb a few times. It has all the original parts, even the oil, and It keeps on working.
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Old 02-12-2013, 10:18 PM   #5
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I was given an 11-32 roper from a neibour. I had to replace the auger gear before it would throw anything heavier than powder but now it runs great. A little after firing with a bad muffler so it shoots flame about 3 feet once its good and hot. The muffler glows red hot and on rare occasions it back fires. It did that one day and blew the round cover off the back of the air intake. A little tuck tape fixed it as I never saw the disk again. Aside from those quirks it's a great machine. Up untill tonight when the drive stopped working. The belt is fine the idler is tensioning properly. The chains are intact but there is a break in the shaft between the drive chain to the wheels and the input chain from the engine. There appears to be some sort of throw out that connects them but that seems no to be lining up or moving any ideas.
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Old 02-13-2013, 11:06 AM   #6
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Welcome to the forum.
On your red-hot muffler and backfiring, that typically is due to the engine running lean. Assuming you have a Tecumseh engine, there should be an adjustable jet on the bottom of the carb bowl that is your high speed jet. The starting point is around 1 full turn open. Once there, I run the engine wide open and adjust it to find where it starts losing rpms both opening the jet up and closing it. Wherever that is, I split the difference and that seems to be the sweet spot.
Don't know on the shaft issue, might be able to get another one or make one depending on the configuration of it. Pictures would help and I'd suggest you start your own thread on it to get the most help.
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Old 02-13-2013, 05:13 PM   #7
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HCBPH, when you say one full turn open...by that you mean you tighten it up all the way....righty tighty and then back it of lefty loosey 1 full turn...correct!!!
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Old 02-13-2013, 05:15 PM   #8
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johnd393,

Can you take a pic of the label/metal tag on the back of your blower and post it?? Many Dankas!!

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Old 10-31-2013, 10:07 PM   #9
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Hello johnd393,
My name is Gord and I have owned a Roper 11-32 for the last 30 years or so. The unit is still going strong. I have in my posession an Original owners-service manual.
If you need original part numbers or whatever drop a line or email me at
gordjhobson@hotmail.com
Best regards,
Gord Hobson
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Old 11-02-2013, 02:09 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Simplicity Solid 22 View Post
HCBPH, when you say one full turn open...by that you mean you tighten it up all the way....righty tighty and then back it of lefty loosey 1 full turn...correct!!!
DON'T overtighten it! Just let it bottom out and then open it one full turn. After that follow instructions given by HCBPH.
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