What Else Could it Be? - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
 
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post #1 of 10 Old 02-11-2017, 05:56 PM Thread Starter
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What Else Could it Be?

My 69 ariens sno-thro with a 7hp Tecumseh H70 wouldn't start the other day after running great all winter. I found out that I am getting no spark. Here is what I have done so far to no avail.

1. replaced spark plug and gapped to .030
2. checked wiring to make sure a bad wire wasn't grounding out
3. pulled fly wheel and checked magnets which were fine
4. replaced condensor
5. replaced coil
6. replaced points and gapped to .020

I am out of ideas. I tried to find more things to try on the forum but maybe I'm searching with the wrong terms.

Any help would be appreciated as I am a newbie but really enjoy working on these old machines.
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post #2 of 10 Old 02-11-2017, 06:00 PM
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Disconnect the wire on the fiber terminal block under the carb and try it. If you now have spark there is a problem with an interlock switch.
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post #3 of 10 Old 02-11-2017, 06:20 PM Thread Starter
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I don't have an interlock switch, but I disconnected the wire that runs down to the points connection and grounds out when you put the move the throttle lever to stop, and still no spark. GRRRRRR!
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post #4 of 10 Old 02-11-2017, 07:00 PM
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Bludy, not to sound like a boob, but you adjusted the points on the high spot, correct?? So they ar normally closed and get bumped open to .020?? An you replace the Ignition coil?? Did you set the air gap ?? GLuck, Jay
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post #5 of 10 Old 02-11-2017, 07:01 PM
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I don't have a clue...I think the only thing you can do is replace the magneto. I had a similar problem and that fixed it.
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post #6 of 10 Old 02-11-2017, 08:29 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by JayzAuto1 View Post
Bludy, not to sound like a boob, but you adjusted the points on the high spot, correct?? So they ar normally closed and get bumped open to .020?? An you replace the Ignition coil?? Did you set the air gap ?? GLuck, Jay
Yep adjusted points on the high spot to .020 and replaced ignition coil. But I missed the air gap as I did have the armature off. I check that when I get a chance and reply back. Thanks for the ideas.
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post #7 of 10 Old 02-11-2017, 09:24 PM
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I would replace the points with an electronic ignition module. It's simple. The wire going to the points you cut and join with one of the two wires from the module, the other wire you ground on the engine or frame. I did this on an old edger someone gave me and it worked. Before I had a good spark, sprayed ether in the carb, wouldn't start. Put the electronic module on, started right up. You use your existing ignition coil as you need that for the magnet timing.
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post #8 of 10 Old 02-11-2017, 11:03 PM
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What did the timing key look like? If there is a tiny bit of offset on it I:d also replace it.

Joe

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post #9 of 10 Old 02-22-2017, 08:23 PM
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It's been a long time since I timed an old Tec. But if I remember, I used a continuity light and after the points were adjusted to the spec BTDC, I would then twist the magneto until it broke continuity and then I would bolt down the magneto. So if I also remember correctly there would be no air gap to adjust, because the mag is under the flywheel.

I also like the idea of the electronic ignition to bypass all these technicalities. The flywheel key is also a good place to look.
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post #10 of 10 Old 02-23-2017, 06:39 PM Thread Starter
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After messing around for too long with this old Tecumseh, I said the heck with it and bought a Predator 212cc. It fit perfectly and works so much better that I can't believe I put up with the issues I've had with the Tecumseh lately. No offense to the purists on here but sometimes in order to keep the the old tanks running you have to upgrade the tired old parts. For $100 and a few hours time I have a "new" blower again.
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