Picked up a toro 2500 gts that the previous owner said would not start.
1. checked plug......good spark.
2. put new fresh fuel
3. took bowl off , fuel IS getting to carb. cleaned out carb and took out jets and cleaned out.
still would not start.
4. took plug out and poured 2 tablespoons of fuel in and then it started right up. I ran for about 5 minutes. It seems to run good but just a hint of roughness every few seconds.
maybe I have to take carb off and do a complete cleaning???
also it smokes a little. is this common for a 2 cycle?
Everyone on this forum who doesn't their own maintenance should own a carb dip cleaner. That's what you need to do a thorough carb cleaning. For 2 cycle oil I use synthetic as it lubricates better thus you use a leaner mix thus less smoke.
I hope putting some seafoam in mixed gas is ok. I'll run it tomorrow longer and see if it runs smoother. otherwise I'll have to take carb off for a complete cleaning.
Well, looks like they had 10 model numbers over three years of the 2500. Only two carbs, either Briggs plastic, or Tecumseh metal. Since you didn't mention plastic, we'll assume Tec carb 632751. It'll be very similar to this carb for cleaning. http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/tecumseh_carb_640342.asp
Very basic carb. Assuming you cleared the tiny hole in the bowl nut threads?(pic #8) Note to check the atmospheric vent (pic #19) on the left side. It's a pressed in plastic piece with a wee little hole in it (a wire pulled from a wire wheel will fit inside it to clear). Make sure somebody prior to you didn't push it all the way into the carb body, they will run when this happens but not well. Also note the idle fuel pickup hole that is hidden inside the main stalk (pic #9). Run a wire through the other noted vents too. If the orings on the nozzle tube are hard or flattened you'll need new. Those Tec 2 strokes are VERY finicky about extra air in my experience. You can super double extra clean and ultrasonic the carb and still run and start poorly if a gasket is bad. The ones between the carb body/insulator and block usually need to be replaced because they get distorted and rarely go back the same if reused. Any crust or corrosion around the bowl gasket won't fly either. Pull the exhaust and look to see if the port is carboned up. Pull the recoil to watch the piston skirt come up to cover the cylinder if you do have to pick some growth out of there. Make sure the head bolts are snug. If it still runs like crap after that spray some carb cleaner behind the engine sheave while it's running poorly and see if the engine changes tune. The crank seals can go and the whole carb cleaning is a waste of time.
If none of that works, drill out the bowl nut jet a little tiny bigger (pic #7). Still sucks, ebay aftermarket carb (or should that have been step one?):grin:
If it is a Briggs plastic carb, it's usually the pilot jet that's hidden behind the carb model number sticker on the side.
Well, looks like they had 10 model numbers over three years of the 2500. Only two carbs, either Briggs plastic, or Tecumseh metal. Since you didn't mention plastic, we'll assume Tec carb 632751. It'll be very similar to this carb for cleaning. Disassembly, Cleaning and Repair of Tecumseh Carb 640342 on a Sears 143.025071 Engine
Very basic carb. Assuming you cleared the tiny hole in the bowl nut threads?(pic #8) Note to check the atmospheric vent (pic #19) on the left side. It's a pressed in plastic piece with a wee little hole in it (a wire pulled from a wire wheel will fit inside it to clear). Make sure somebody prior to you didn't push it all the way into the carb body, they will run when this happens but not well. Also note the idle fuel pickup hole that is hidden inside the main stalk (pic #9). Run a wire through the other noted vents too. If the orings on the nozzle tube are hard or flattened you'll need new. Those Tec 2 strokes are VERY finicky about extra air in my experience. You can super double extra clean and ultrasonic the carb and still run and start poorly if a gasket is bad. The ones between the carb body/insulator and block usually need to be replaced because they get distorted and rarely go back the same if reused. Any crust or corrosion around the bowl gasket won't fly either. Pull the exhaust and look to see if the port is carboned up. Pull the recoil to watch the piston skirt come up to cover the cylinder if you do have to pick some growth out of there. Make sure the head bolts are snug. If it still runs like crap after that spray some carb cleaner behind the engine sheave while it's running poorly and see if the engine changes tune. The crank seals can go and the whole carb cleaning is a waste of time.
If none of that works, drill out the bowl nut jet a little tiny bigger (pic #7). Still sucks, ebay aftermarket carb (or should that have been step one?):grin:
If it is a Briggs plastic carb, it's usually the pilot jet that's hidden behind the carb model number sticker on the side.
have not put it back on yet. all the "honey do's" are piling up. I am working more now than when I was working for the man.
I promise I'll come back with an update as soon as I can. this heatwave ain't helping things.
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