Snow blower carb problems - Page 2 - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #11 of 19 Old 11-21-2013, 02:49 PM
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I had a similar situation. I don't know if your engine has the same thing, but it ended up being a plugged up tiny hole at the tip of a piece in my carb and I had to take a tiny wire and clean it out. Happened with 2 of my snow blowers. You can watch which part I had to clean by watching this video from donyboy73. Blowing, soaking, etc. isn't going to clean that little hole if it's gunked. After doing what he did what a world of difference afterward ran like brand new.

That little hole typically gets clogged/gummed when leaving gas over the summer in the machine. Here's the video, your carb if not the one shown likely has something very similar somewhere. Video below.

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post #12 of 19 Old 11-21-2013, 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Piedmont View Post
I had a similar situation. I don't know if your engine has the same thing, but it ended up being a plugged up tiny hole at the tip of a piece in my carb and I had to take a tiny wire and clean it out. Happened with 2 of my snow blowers. You can watch which part I had to clean by watching this video from donyboy73. Blowing, soaking, etc. isn't going to clean that little hole if it's gunked. After doing what he did what a world of difference afterward ran like brand new.

That little hole typically gets clogged/gummed when leaving gas over the summer in the machine. Here's the video, your carb if not the one shown likely has something very similar somewhere. Video below.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GT0STIPg4I8
His video's are very good and he shows everything step by step. I watched several of his video's over the past couple years
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post #13 of 19 Old 11-22-2013, 10:39 AM Thread Starter
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I received the wrong carb kit (394698 instead of 394693). So I'll exchange it next week and try again.

About using a bit of teflon tape on the emulsion tube... I'm assuming this is the long tube that goes up into the carb on an angle. It has a short threaded section, another short section that is thicker, and a long thin section. It seems to bottom out where the long thin section starts. Is that where the teflon tape or washer should go?
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post #14 of 19 Old 11-24-2013, 03:53 PM Thread Starter
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Wouldn't you know it... just got 18" of snow last night and I can't get out of the driveway to pick up the snowblower carb parts in order to fix the snowblower so I can get out the driveway, etc, etc.
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post #15 of 19 Old 11-24-2013, 04:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Tictac View Post
I received the wrong carb kit (394698 instead of 394693). So I'll exchange it next week and try again.

About using a bit of teflon tape on the emulsion tube... I'm assuming this is the long tube that goes up into the carb on an angle. It has a short threaded section, another short section that is thicker, and a long thin section. It seems to bottom out where the long thin section starts. Is that where the teflon tape or washer should go?
You place a small thin layer of teflon tape right over the beveled area on the emulsion tube just up the thin part slightly which goes into the throat of the carb. When putting in the emulsion tube you will see just a small amount of the teflon tape showing right were it comes out into the carburetor throat. Make sure not to cover any small holes that are in the emulsion tube. This way the teflon tape compresses and stops any gasoline from leaking by un metered into the intake of the engine.
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post #16 of 19 Old 11-26-2013, 02:35 PM Thread Starter
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OK, I got the carb kit installed and teflon on the tube. After adjusting the carb a bit, it runs fine now.

I have 2 remaining problems with the snowblower. The auger turns too slow and reverse gear won't engage. I will look under neath later this week and start a new thread if I can't resolve those issues.

Thank you for the helpful suggestions on getting the engine going.
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post #17 of 19 Old 12-07-2013, 10:55 AM Thread Starter
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This machine uses a friction plate for traction. The rubber tire that moves laterally on the friction plate did not move freely. I lubed the shafts that it slides on, and now all the gears work perfectly. For the auger spinning slowly, I replaced the belt and tightened up the idler spring (which was stretched).

When I went to check out my repairs I cannot get it started at all. When cranking, it won't fire and no gas gets to the plug. It won't even fire with starting fluid. With the choke closed, gas dribbles out of the air intake. I'm wondering if tipping it up on its front end could have affected anything.

Before the above repairs it started and ran fine, but the plug was a bit sooty. Any thoughts???
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post #18 of 19 Old 12-08-2013, 03:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Tictac View Post
OK, I got the carb kit installed and teflon on the tube. After adjusting the carb a bit, it runs fine now.

I have 2 remaining problems with the snowblower. The auger turns too slow and reverse gear won't engage. I will look under neath later this week and start a new thread if I can't resolve those issues.

Thank you for the helpful suggestions on getting the engine going.
No problem. I learned this trick a long time ago when I help with maintanence for a lawn cutting and landscaping service. the 2 piece Briggs updraft carburetors have a tendency to leak at the base of the emulsion tube and this is a nice inexpensive way to fix a leaky carburetor. Good to hear that it is working. I wish my 8hp briggs on my 1973 Montgomery Ward 8/26 wasn't in need of new valve guides and maybe new rings. I wanted a classic machine and the reason it wasn't being used was that the engine was simply worn out and the gas tank rusted out on it.
As to the auger check the belt ensioner and the reverse check out the friction wheel and the adjustments either the wheel may be worn out rubber cracked or broken off or not making good enough contact with the drive platter and slipping. Sometime cleaning it off real good with Brake cleaner can help because grease or oil can get on the drive plate and cause it to slip.

Last edited by GustoGuy; 12-08-2013 at 03:53 AM.
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post #19 of 19 Old 12-08-2013, 04:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Tictac View Post
This machine uses a friction plate for traction. The rubber tire that moves laterally on the friction plate did not move freely. I lubed the shafts that it slides on, and now all the gears work perfectly. For the auger spinning slowly, I replaced the belt and tightened up the idler spring (which was stretched).

When I went to check out my repairs I cannot get it started at all. When cranking, it won't fire and no gas gets to the plug. It won't even fire with starting fluid. With the choke closed, gas dribbles out of the air intake. I'm wondering if tipping it up on its front end could have affected anything.

Before the above repairs it started and ran fine, but the plug was a bit sooty. Any thoughts???
Usually if the carburetor is leaking when you are not running the engine is that the float needle valve is not shutting off the fuel. The float bowel overfills and the excess gasoline runs down the small opening from the front of the carburetor to the opening right by the choke plate. Clean the needle seat with a small amount of brasso on a q-tip and check the rubber tip on the float needle. If the rubber tip is bad you will need a new float needle and usually they sell the float needle and seat togather how ever in carburetor kits they often have just the float needle. Ajust the level of the float so that it is horizontal to the top of the carburetor when hel upside down. Reasemble and check to see if the leak has stopped. good luck I needed to put a new float seat in mine since I could not stop the leak with adjusting it.
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