Welcome to the forum
Good advice given, may be able to add a couple of things to make it alittle easier. The adapter that holds the cover over the carb should have a lever to work the choke (on most carbs I have, though some have a separate arm off the choke shaft itself). You'll want that. I don't see a fitting for a primer bulb on the carb, so you may or may not have that.
As grungy as that carb looks, you'll want to clean it all, most likely needing to clean out the area under the 2 welch plugs (small round discs, one above the float and one in the side of the carb). Be careful taking the one out of the side, there's not alot of clearance under it. You put a hole in them and stick a pick or something like that to leverage them out. There are some holes in the side one that go into the throttle bore, you need to insure they are open as they do plug up with gummy gas. A strand of phone wire is the perfect size to open them up. They best way to put new welch plugs in (included in full carb kits) is to support the carb with a block of wood on the opposite sides boss area (built up area, you'll see it), align them carefully then use a small hammer and a socket that just fits inside the edge of the plug and tap it in.
As far as the dirt and grime goes, best thing I've found is brake cleaner, works even better than carb cleaner for me. Might need to use an old toothbrush or q-tip to work off the grunge, just insure you don't leave any stray fibers in the carb when done. Then put in your new seals etc. Be sure when replacing the needlevalve seal, put it in the right direction and seat it fully (I use the chuck end of a small drill bit to push it in). Watch the direction of the opening on the little wire that attaches the needlevalve itself to the float (open end to the right, looking from the bottom with the hinge towards you). You may have to adjust the tang on the float for proper drop, most though I've done didn't need it but it could happen. Before doing that, insure you have the needlevalve seat in fully.
Open the main jet (unscrew it a couple of turns) before screwing that onto the carb through the bowl. Don't forget the seal on that, also insure the seal around the top of the bowl is seated as you push it on. Those 2 seals are where most leaks occur IMO.
Initial adjustments are 1 turn open on the main jet and 1 1/2 on the midrange jet. Fine tune them once you have it running.
Take pictures on the engine and as you disassemble it if you're new to rebuilding carbs. It's alot easier to refer to a picture to see how things like the shaft from the governor were attached rather than trying to remember and not being sure.
Last edited by HCBPH; 09-30-2011 at 10:38 AM.