Craftsman drive axle replacement

[CO Snow]

My Craftsman 2 stage drive shaft axle has 2 sprockets with chains. The axle broke where one of the sprockets or gears was attached. The sprocket attaches to the axle with a pin that goes through the collar of the sprocket and through a hole in the axle. The second sprocket is attached to the axle in the same way.

I have a new axle and have removed the wheels. I need to remove the sprockets from the old axle. Then I will put the sprockets on the new axle and will need to feed the "bike chain" onto each sprocket.

Any suggestions on the process to do this?

[HCBPH]

CO

Welcome to the forum. Without a model number at a minimum, preferably pictures - everything is pure guessing

Separate the splitlink, remove the chain
Use a hammer and punch and drive out the roll pins
clean up the axel and slide it out.
reverse to reassemble.

Sounds sparse, but without more info, best I can give. Post the model and pictures if you can to get some real help.

[CO Snow]

It is a Sears Craftsman model 247.888530

Here is a link to the owners manual:

http://dl.owneriq.net/4/4e8f62f1-cb3...c6036cebce.pdf

You can see the area on the above link on page 24, figure 32 (the word "PIN" is on a horizontal shaft which is the drive axle which is broken).

The parts schematic is on page 30.

Help is appreciated.

[td5771]

Hcbph has it pretty well nailed down. This next part is only because i don't know your skill level.

make sure the punch you use or nail with point cut off or bolt or whatever you use to drive the pins out is a,most exact. too small it spreads the pin and makes it tighter, too big it get wedged in the hole and you can't get it out.

The splitlink or "master link is obviously different from the restand has a very small flat clip from one pin to another on one link. puch that off and the link will come apart.

[HCBPH]

If you look at page 30 of the schematic, it looks to me like you have a 3 piece axel in there! Without actually seeing it, this is pure guessing on my part based on the drawing only.

All this is based on the schematic on page 30 of the pdf you listed.

Now here's a suggestion - take pictures (alot of them) before you start and as you take things apart. It can be a life saver when it comes time to reassemble. If you can't keep parts alighned as they come out, bag and tag them so when it comes time to reassemble you can find all the parts and know where they go.

If it's one of the axel ends, I'm not even sure you have to remove the chains. Assuming you are trying to replace one of the actual axels a wheel bolts onto: looks like if you drive out the roll pin (#14), the axel will slide out. Just be sure that you don't lose or drop any of the various washers etc while removing it. Slide the new one in and align the hole and drive the roll pin back in

If it's part 45, then you will need to undo the master link on both chains, drive out both roll pins, slide both axels out. Transfer the parts from the old 45 to the new 45, hold it up in the chassis and slide both axels in. Align the hole through the sprockets and axels and drive the roll pins back in. Put the chains back on and redo the master link.

Anything you have apart that might need lubing, this is a good time to do it (like axel bushings, chain, etc).

I expect this would be easier to do in the service position (auger down, handlebars up), so insure you don't have so much gas it will run out when tipped up (or better yet, drain the tank). I usually go slightly over center and rest the handlebars on the garage wall. When you're done, take it back to normal position and I like to let it set a while as you do have things like oil in the crankcase I like to give a chance to all run back where it's supposed to be.

Good luck, and let us know how it turns out.

[CO Snow]

Thanks everyone for your help so far. The axle IS a one piece axle. Piece 45 is one of 3 "spacers" on the axle. That spacer is between the gears and slides over the axle to maintain the correct spacing between the gears.

I'm thinking that I won't need to disconnect the chains. I will take out each pin (part no 14) that holds each gear on the axle and I can then remove the old broken axle. Then I will reassemble. I'm hoping that once the gears are on the axle that I can turn the axle with the attached gears (once the pins are replaced) and feed the chains onto the gears just like you would with a bicycle chain. Does that sound feasible or do you think the chain will be too tight? The new axle is supposed to be delivered today so I will keep you posted.

[CO Snow]

Got it fixed and it works great. It is a 2 piece axle. I'll post some pictures - before and after.

[CO Snow]

Was dealing with an 18" snowfall today and the axle broke AGAIN. Having a hole through the axle to allow a gear to be attached sure creates a weak point when dealing with heavy, wet snow.

[Shryp]

Wow, that sucks. Was the new axle a new one for the blower, an old and used one or something custom built? It could be possible that it was already stressed or just the wrong grade of steel.

It could also be possible that you are stressing the machine too hard. Remember that it is a snow blower and not a snow plow. The wheels should move the machine to the snow, not push the snow down the street.

[Oldphil]

With 18" you should be in your lowest gear!