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TORO CCR #38430 - Paddles Stop Under Load

5K views 6 replies 5 participants last post by  Grunt 
#1 ·
HI All,

First time posting.

I have a Toro CCR model #38430, SN 8901317.

It starts fine and runs fine until I try to remove snow. As soon as a load is put on it (Remove even a fraction of snow) the paddles stop turning. They turn fine while running with no load. I have replaced the belt, paddles, scraper bar, cleaned it up, and placed fresh gas, but still no change. I know it's old (1998)=, but it runs great. I hate to go buy a new snowblower if there is something I can fix myself. Is there a key or something on the shaft that may be broken or something similar? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Is there someplace to find a manual which may show possible problem?

Thanks again,
Len
 
#2 ·
Toro is great for having manuals on line.

https://www.toro.com/en/parts?SearchText=38430&SelectedFilterByOption=equipment

IF ... it's the correct belt and the tensioner is adjusted correctly then it would almost have to be the pulley on the engine slipping or the pulley on the paddle slipping. You might try removing the belt and seeing if one of those two is loose on it's shaft.
If you pull up the parts manual. The engine pulley shows a set screw on page 2. The paddle shaft shows a key way on page 4.

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#3 · (Edited)
Booker,

I can tell you that that machine works similar to my Toro 2450 in terms of how you actuate the paddles.
As you pull on the control bail, the cable it is attached to is attached to an arm under the belt cover which pivots a tensioner pulley and causes the belt to tighten around the drive pulley.

If that cable is not adjusted right, it is possible for the paddles to turn under no load, but then freeze up as the paddles hit snow, because the belt is not tight enough against the drive pulley.

On the cable itself, you'll find a cylindrical cover that covers up the cable adjuster plate. Remove the cover and try moving the cable to a different hole on the plate, in order to "shorten" the overall length of the cable.

A quick test of these is with the machine off, pull on the control bail until you see all slack removed from the cable. At that point, the bail should be about 1/4" from the handle. If all the slack doesn't come out, you need to make the above adjustment.

Bottom line: if the cable is too long (or stretched) the belt barely grips the drive pulley when the bail is pulled on, but not tight enough when the paddles meet the resistance of the snow.


Check this issue first, and if the cable tension is right, then remove the belt cover and follow Kiss4aFrog's advice about whether either the pulley on the paddle shaft or engine shafts have come loose.

.
.
 
#5 ·
All good advice. After doing this, remove the cover, go into some snow and see where it's slipping. Sometimes belts are not accurate to the specified sizing. I always measure my belts.
 
#6 ·
Thanks all. I was pulled away from the project for a few days but finally had a chance to get back into it.

Well, I can't try it out in the snow since it's summer, but I did find that the drive pulley, the one connected to the paddle shaft had loosened up and not engaging enough to turn the paddles under load. I tightened it and it seems to be better. My concern is why it loosened up in the first place. Is there a keyway which may have broken off? Also, I may have to re-order another new belt as I'm concerned the one I put on may have been stretched out due to the pulley and mis-adjustment of the control cable. How can I tell if the control cable has been stretched too much and should be replaced?

I appreciate all the good advice and the links to the manual, they help a lot.

Great forum.

Booker
 
#7 ·
Looking at the parts list, item #32, rotor pulley, shows a key molded into the pulley that fits into a slot on the rotor. If the key is sheared, the pulley will continue to slip or loosen, requiring a new pulley to work correctly.


https://www.toro.com/en/parts/partdetails/?id=19874
 
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