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I'm game, talk me thru the steps.

5K views 23 replies 11 participants last post by  alleyyooper 
#1 ·
Ready I think to do a impeller kit on my MTD blower.





Talk me thru the steps required. I do have a pretty thick semi mud flap and another one that is real stiff.

:D Al
 
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#2 ·

Alley, Do you have another picture of the auger assembly? Optical illusion or what I can't make out what that black and silver thing is inside the middle there. I've found one of the best materials to use is the old paddles from a Toro S200 snowblower, but any fairly thick/firm rubber can be used. A hole punch set is easiest to get the holes in the rubber. Drills just don't work.
Hollow Punch Set - 9 Piece
For large hands and short tempers, I found it easier to remove the auger/impeller assembly and do it on a bench.
 
#3 ·
I don't know why but I'm pretty sure that black and silver thing is the augers gear box. It's likely faded on top due to sitting out in the sun.



The hollow punch would be great but since I don't have a set I've drilled them and they come out OK.
 
#4 ·
Thanks K4frog, I'm on a laptop from the '90's running XP:facepalm_zpsdj194qh. My aging eyes and weak mind kept seeing the grey as the impeller housing in the background and the black rest as missing something. Now I can see the trees instead of the forest:)
Maybe if you use pure rubber the drill works OK? I found the fabric reinforced rubber stuff I usually use to get mangled from a drill bit. Can never get a real nice hole. The punch set helps but obviously not imperative.
 
#7 ·
Thanks K4frog, I'm on a laptop from the '90's running XP:facepalm_zpsdj194qh. My aging eyes and weak mind kept seeing the grey as the impeller housing in the background and the black rest as missing something. Now I can see the trees instead of the forest:)
Maybe if you use pure rubber the drill works OK? I found the fabric reinforced rubber stuff I usually use to get mangled from a drill bit. Can never get a real nice hole. The punch set helps but obviously not imperative.
you do know that XP has left the building there JT.:icon_whistling::icon_whistling::icon_whistling::icon_whistling::icon_whistling:
 
#5 ·
I drilled my bailer belt with no issues. You will have to remove the chute. It might help to have a long drill bit or an extension. I used a normal size bit. Be careful when it breaks through or you will smash your fingers on the chute hole. A sharp bit works a lot better. Last one I did I hit the bit with my angle grinder quick after every couple holes.

It might be easiest if you have a small c-clamp or something. You can clamp the first one on and spin the impeller to find the tightest spot. Normally the tight spot will be under the chute at at least 90 degrees.

Don't go crazy making them tight, just get them in the ballpark.
 
#6 ·
Protect your hands with some type of thick gloves. You WILL skin your knuckles or worse when the drill goes through the impeller and you hand hits the edge of the discharge chute. It is an easy modification to do and should be done with a safety first attitude.
 
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#8 ·
Nice thing about low or old tech is people don't bother stealing it from you !!

JT .. my laptop is running a desk top 21-22" monitor and I'm thinking it's time for something a big bigger or new glasses :icon_whistling:
I do love having dual screens as I can open a word document or post and then use the other screen hunting information and always have the other screens info up.

I couldn't figure out that impeller/auger either as it looked like a cover almost and I only understood it once I found a better photo of it. :wacko:
 
#9 ·
Yes that is the sun faded auger gear box. So if I under stood correctly,
I remover the discharge chute so I can get to the impeller.
Cut a chunk of rubber on the impeller rotate it and resize if needed.
Drill holes to hold rubber on impeller with bolts, bolt size?
:eek:k:Smash knuckles and fingers in process.:eek:k:
bolt the rubber to the impeller and replace the discharge chute.

Have I got it?

:D Al
 
#11 ·
Here is a link using "impeller kit" as the search phrase on this forum which shows all the threads concerning the installation of a kit. Many of us have done it and many more will do it. You can also search youtube for video instructions.

Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums - Search Results
 
#13 · (Edited)
There is a secondary advantage to taking it apart and doing the modification with the impeller out of the housing.
The big one is it's so much easier and a chance you won't bust your knuckles or draw blood.
The other advantage is the ability to check over the bearings, bushings, ... and to make sure it all comes apart easily now when it's nice outside and if something's stuck/seized you have time and are under no pressure to solve it today, or before you can get out of the driveway.
Going back together you can lube, grease or anti-seize stuff to make sure should you need to go in there mid winter it will be a piece of cake to replace or repair something.
 
#15 ·
If you decide to break down the machine.........NOTE:Before you disassemble, you scribe the location of your pads on the impeller. Very important Step!!!!
Worked fine for me!:eek:k:
You must also to remember to cut your pads to size FIRST, then locate on impeller, then scribe location. GOOD to GO!
 
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#16 ·
I got to thinking about this impeller kit thing yesterday and say to my self. Why don't you take one of those car tires you won't pay the store to do some thing with cut the side walls out and have some stiff rubber to make paddles out of.
Sounded like a good Idea to me.

:D Al
 
#17 ·
Why don't you take one of those car tires you won't pay the store to do some thing with cut the side walls out and have some stiff rubber to make paddles out of.
Sounded like a good Idea to me.:D Al
Great idea, help the environment and save some money in the process. This man used tire sidewalls to make paddles for a single stage blower.

 
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#18 ·
Got a chance this week end to give the impeller on my machine a good look. Decided that the impellers were not made with what I would call beefy material so will not use tire side wall it improve them.
I am just going to use semi mud flat stuff I have on the 4 impeller blades. I also think I can get to them with my right angle drill.

:D Al
 
#19 ·
I think almost any material will work as long as it's not too pliable.
You don't think the impeller steel is "beefy" enough? Take a look at the newer machines, I feel like the old ariens will eat rocks and sticks without a problem, minus scratching. The new ones look like sheet metal, some thinner gauge than the steel on the chute of the old ariens.
Either way you you be pleased with the impeller kit.
 
#20 ·
I sure don't have a clue why they used those Philips screw bolts on the chute on my MTD. Tried to take the chute off yesterday and those dumb screws kept saying tuff titty kitty we are not going to allow you to remove us easy. Get a nut splitter if you want the chute off.
I hate machines that talk to me, they always seem to say your screwed or we are about to cost you a bunch of time and money.

:D Al
 
#21 ·
Finally got the new engine mounted, new tires too. Reroute the crank and added the Universal joints to route it so it is handier and still clear the valve cover.
Then I got the chute off and the impeller clears the housing after the chute by only 3/8th of and inch or there about. Do I really need a Impeller kit for that?

:D Al
 
#23 ·
Then I got the chute off and the impeller clears the housing after the chute by only 3/8th of and inch or there about. Do I really need a Impeller kit for that?

:D Al
I came across that youtube video a while back and wondered why myself. I've never had a problem with either of the machines I've had in the past.
 
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