Alice...Sweet Allis - Page 3 - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #21 of 97 Old 12-28-2015, 08:37 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Grunt View Post
Great deal CC. Here is a link to the engine service manual for that engine. Good luck with the restoration.
Thank you Brutha Grunt!!


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post #22 of 97 Old 12-28-2015, 08:41 PM Thread Starter
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Ooofta - I thought the carbs I worked on were gunked up - not even! You got your work cut out on this one.....
I hear ya badcat. Never have I seen anything remotely close to this.

I don't know if it's corrosion or remnants from MTBE gas....regardless, I don't believe this machine has been fired in a loooong time.

If it's corrosion, I may have to bite the bullet and order a chinese carb


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post #23 of 97 Old 12-29-2015, 04:36 PM Thread Starter
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2 heat rounds to the Alice's budget.

The 1st, this carb is shot...no surprises there.


^^ The tip of the ice-pick is where the fuel is drawn into the emulsion tube...packed solid with Alumina... fuggedaboudit!

I scored a used briggs replacement carb for $45...with the seller's guarantee.


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post #24 of 97 Old 12-29-2015, 04:39 PM Thread Starter
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The second is to this fuel tank. The bottom is swiss cheese.


It's definitely salvageable however the cost of doing so approaches the cost of a brand-spankin' new tank.

If I were to proceed with salvaging, I'd do the following:
  • Remove the varnish with laquer thinner (temporarily plug the holes with bubble gum)
  • Remove the rust using electrolysis
  • POR15 degreaser
  • POR15 Metal Prep
  • POR15 external patch over the holes after sanding away the paint
  • POR15 tank sealer

Currently in it for $205. When all is said-and-done, I'll be in this machine about $250-$300. I can live with that. Thanks for stoppin' by!


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post #25 of 97 Old 12-29-2015, 05:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by classiccat View Post
It has a 26" pie-hole:




beefy auger gearcase:


Even the belt cover is steel:



when buying an old-school briggs, the fuel tanks are always a concern...and this machine is no exception. Not sure if this beyond saving...


That is why they make plastic replacement tanks. for that 1. there BROTHER CC.

Long LIVE THE POWERSHIFT!! MAY IT NEVER RUST IN PEACE!!
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MAHALO!!!!!!!!!
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post #26 of 97 Old 12-29-2015, 05:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by classiccat View Post
The second is to this fuel tank. The bottom is swiss cheese.


It's definitely salvageable however the cost of doing so approaches the cost of a brand-spankin' new tank.

If I were to proceed with salvaging, I'd do the following:
  • Remove the varnish with laquer thinner (temporarily plug the holes with bubble gum)
  • Remove the rust using electrolysis
  • POR15 degreaser
  • POR15 Metal Prep
  • POR15 external patch over the holes after sanding away the paint
  • POR15 tank sealer

Currently in it for $205. When all is said-and-done, I'll be in this machine about $250-$300. I can live with that. Thanks for stoppin' by!
FOR 75 bucks you can get a new plastic tank. and best of all it comes in black only.

Long LIVE THE POWERSHIFT!! MAY IT NEVER RUST IN PEACE!!
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MAHALO!!!!!!!!!
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post #27 of 97 Old 12-29-2015, 06:08 PM
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This is going to be fun seeing it running again.

I'm pretty much retired from the forum thing, but I check in every now and then.
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post #28 of 97 Old 12-29-2015, 08:53 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by POWERSHIFT93 View Post
FOR 75 bucks you can get a new plastic tank. and best of all it comes in black only.
Brutha-PS...the only plastic that will be on this machine...will be on the recoil handle...and now that I think about it, I'm going to swap that out with a fat chunk of old Iron


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post #29 of 97 Old 12-29-2015, 08:59 PM Thread Starter
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This is going to be fun seeing it running again.
You and me both bwd! ...then again, I'm in no real hurry; having 2 machines already in operation, I can savor this project.


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post #30 of 97 Old 12-31-2015, 09:52 AM Thread Starter
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I got the transmission out of the machine...I bet it alone weighs close to 100#.





The good news is that I only had the chase the threads on one of the missing bolts...the missing upper bolt will need to be drilled-out / re-tapped.

I've decided to do it without cracking the transmission; I may get lucky with the left-handed bits where it walks out for me.

You guys who love old Iron will appreciate this: 1971 Popular Mechanics; see Page 16.

The debate at the time was friction wheel versus transmission!

I think this issue is fitting for the SBF archives...at the end, there's an article on how LED's will change the world!


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