1970's Sno-Thro Carb Help - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
 
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post #1 of 5 Old 12-17-2016, 10:44 PM Thread Starter
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1970's Sno-Thro Carb Help

Hi Guys,
I need some help with getting some snowblowers I inherited when I recently purchased my house. I had the one running for a few seconds with starting fluid, but it is clear that the carburetor is clogged as it died almost immediately. Now I really only need these snowblowers to run for this winter, and after that I will likely have a plow service. Therefore, I would like to simply replace the carburetor(s) and start using them (the house needs tons of work, I work full time, I don't have much time to play around with these as well). I have some photos of the snowblowers/carbs, but I can't post them due to being a new member. It seems that these are mutts as the numbers don't match.

Snowblower 1:
Auger Model No: 922024
Motor Mount Model No: 922020

Snowblower 2:
Auger has no number that I can find.
Motor Mount Model No: (First number is conveniently scratched off, then followed by either a 3 or an 8) _32006

Looking for the carburetor model numbers so I can buy them off Amazon or something.

Thanks for any help!
-Tyler
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post #2 of 5 Old 12-21-2016, 07:45 PM Thread Starter
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post #3 of 5 Old 12-21-2016, 09:23 PM
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Take a look at the carb below, and see if it looks like yours.. Its for a 5hp Tecumseh.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Adjustable-C...0AAOSwI-BWKcTC




Ariens ST11528LE
Honda HS720
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post #4 of 5 Old 12-21-2016, 10:14 PM
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Tyler, here is some more info..

Quote:
Originally Posted by 3800power View Post

Snowblower 1:
Auger Model No: 922024
Motor Mount Model No: 922020
The numbers arent supposed to match..
the number on the side of the bucket is the "attachment model number" for the bucket only.
What you are calling the "Motor Mount Model No" is the model number of the whole machine itself.
Model 922020 is a 1976, 1977 or 1978 Ariens "22,000" series machine.
5hp Tecumseh engine, 22" bucket.

http://gold.mylargescale.com/scottyc...ens/Page6.html

Quote:
Originally Posted by 3800power View Post
Snowblower 2:
Auger has no number that I can find.
Motor Mount Model No: (First number is conveniently scratched off, then followed by either a 3 or an 8) _32006
Its probably 932006.
1977 or 1978, also 5hp, and I think also 22" bucket.

http://gold.mylargescale.com/scottyc...ens/Page8.html

The engines on the two are likely the same model..

What you really need is not the Ariens model numbers, you need the Tecumseh model and serial numbers off the side of the engine..those will be more important for locating a new carb..

And its also likely you dont really need a new carb..you only need the existing carbs cleaned.
that will possibly be easier than installing a new carb..

installing a new carb involves removing and re-installing a lot of fiddly linkages..it could be a lot easier to just leave the existing carbs in place and try to clean them out..that is probably the better idea..also, the original carbs will be higher quality than most new replacement carbs, which are mostly low-quality made in China junk..

"just replace the carb" seems easier on paper..but in reality its not necessarily a simple job.
new gas and a carb cleaning is probably all they need.

Scot


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post #5 of 5 Old 12-25-2016, 06:40 AM
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If you spray starting fluid in the carb and pull the rope and it kicks over you know the carb is just gummed up. Its a very simple fix. Remove the bolt under the bowl. Make sure the bowl gasket is out of the way. Get a rag and a can of carb clean. Spray the inside of the carb the bowl and the jet. Clean it out with a paper towel, hit some areas with a tooth brush. Take a paper clip or piece of copper wire and clean out the jets small holes (specifically the hole in the bowl nut, your main jet). Take an air compressor and shoot compressed air thru the whole carb and all the holes and jets 9if you have one, if you don't after you have cleaned everything respray it with carb fluid to make sure the dirt is removed from the jets (they sell bottles of compressed air at staples) that would work if you don't have an air compressor. Drop the float make sure the needle is clean. Put it back make sure it is seated properly and that the float is level, put the gasket back on, put the bowl back on the same way it was when you took it off thread the lower bowl nut back in and tighten. That will get the machine running. Then adjust the lower screw until it idles evenly.
(To really do a full 100% clean, you really should remove the carb from the motor, unhook the linkages and bring it down off the motor so you can really give it a good clean). You could put the carb in the gallon can of carb clean and let it sit over night or an ultrasonic cleaner which makes sure you didn't miss anything. Its really not difficult to remove a carb and once you have done it a few times its like riding a bike. I would try cleaning it the easy way I described first, that should do the trick. If it is still not starting or running very poorly before you buy another carb, drop your carb clean it thoroughly and see if that does the trick. If all else fails you can buy a new aftermarket carb on ebay. Sometimes you can find a new old stock carb on ebay (those are generally expensive) or you can find someone selling a good used carb all ready to go, already clean inside and just install it to the engine. If you have to buy another carb option 3 would be the best bet however they are selling aftermarket carbs now for as low as 12 bucks at that price even if their junk if the engine runs good its worth it. I've heard mixed stories, some the machine ran better than it had in a long time with the aftermarket carb others complained. My engines have Oem carbs. I just cleaned one. But I purchased a parts lot a few month back for an air filter for my engine and it came with one of those aftermarket carbs. Seems decent, now its sitting around in case the 45 year old one ever fails. But all you need to do is clean the carb out and you should be good to go. Their are videos on youtube that show how to do it that make it very easy for someone who has never done it before and Tecumseh carbs were always the easiest to clean. Good luck, you should have your machines back up and running in no time. Oh one more thing, make sure you remove the carb engine cover (heater box) when you go to work on/clean your carb. You need that out of the way to get good access to the carb to clean it well, even if you don't remove it for a thorough cleaning. Make sure the bowl gasket or any other gaskets do not come in contact with the carb cleaner. It will shrink them and ruin them and even if you can manage to get it to slip back on a gasket that shrunk will let air into the carb which will mess up the idle. Take it off and keep t away from the cleaning process. Check out a video on youtube first, so you have an idea. Once your in there you'll get it it's a pretty simple procedure. If all else fails 12 bucks for a new aftermarket carb. So your safe.
Here's a link to an aftermarket carb for an older 5 and 6 hp Tecumseh engine. One thing you would have to do is remove the choke lever on the new one and put your choke lever on to it, because yours is longer and sticks out of the heater cover box. That lever is okay when the engine is in use in a summer application. Its very easy to swap the levers.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CARBURETOR-C...AAAOSwnFZXW4aq
Good luck!

Last edited by FearlessFront; 12-25-2016 at 06:57 AM.
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