Deluxe 30 EFI Issue - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 17 Old 02-10-2017, 06:31 AM Thread Starter
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Deluxe 30 EFI Issue

I just got it, and I installed 2 18W Cree LED's W/ Rectifier and the problem I am having is that as soon as the machine gets under load, with the lights on it starts to run really rough like its choking off, but there is no choke. So im wondering if the lights are drawing too much power from the alternator and since it's fuel injected, the electronics are sensitive to that? Do you think removing 1 of the lights would make a difference? Thanks for your time and knowledge in advance!
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post #2 of 17 Old 02-10-2017, 12:16 PM
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You're going to have to experiment around with removing one of the lights to see if it will work. I don't think anyone here has ever had that issue before.
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post #3 of 17 Old 02-10-2017, 01:03 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah, I spoke to a tech and it seems that the OEM headlight draws 20 Watts and I was drawing 36, so Im going to remove 1 light and see what happens
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post #4 of 17 Old 02-10-2017, 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by swcheese View Post
I just got it, and I installed 2 18W Cree LED's W/ Rectifier and the problem I am having is that as soon as the machine gets under load, with the lights on it starts to run really rough like its choking off, but there is no choke. So im wondering if the lights are drawing too much power from the alternator and since it's fuel injected, the electronics are sensitive to that? Do you think removing 1 of the lights would make a difference? Thanks for your time and knowledge in advance!
I guess you didn't try disconnecting the lights while it was giving you trouble?
I may be way off base, but I can't see a second light causing the engine to stumble because of loading on the alternator. I can however, see the alternator not being able to supply enough current to run two lights. Have you got heated grips on that machine? If so, try turning them off to see if that makes a difference.

20W = 0.026 HP and and 36W = 0.040 HP approx. I believe yours has a 306cc engine rated at 14.5 FT/LB torque which translates roughly to 10 HP, or 7600 W. should have plenty of power to spare.

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Last edited by skutflut; 02-10-2017 at 01:50 PM.
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post #5 of 17 Old 02-10-2017, 03:12 PM Thread Starter
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It does have heated grips but I wasn't using them at the time. I spoke with an Ariens tech and he thought that since it is fuel injected the electronics and fuel pump might be sensitive to not enough current. That said, this am, when under load and it started to stutter I shut the lights off and it cleared immediately. This was repeatable over and over. My next option is to disconnect 1 light and see if it will still stutter with just on light on under load. Luckily we have an other big storm commin Sunday into Monday!
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post #6 of 17 Old 02-10-2017, 03:28 PM
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It does have heated grips but I wasn't using them at the time. I spoke with an Ariens tech and he thought that since it is fuel injected the electronics and fuel pump might be sensitive to not enough current. That said, this am, when under load and it started to stutter I shut the lights off and it cleared immediately. This was repeatable over and over. My next option is to disconnect 1 light and see if it will still stutter with just on light on under load. Luckily we have an other big storm commin Sunday into Monday!
Sounds like you nailed the problem. If the EFI electronics are powered by the same source as the lights, the voltage is likely dipping when you hit a load, since you have excess load on the alternator and its too low for the electronics to operate properly.

You MIGHT be able to add one of the lights to the heater circuit which might be AC voltage, but you would need to add a rectifier to the light. See if you can find out the power rating for the grips, and the power rating for the supply voltage for that circuit.

I added heated grips to my 18 watt alternator, but threw in an extra switch so I could run either grips OR light, not both because it just doesn't have the output power to do both. I also tapped the power from my alternator BEFORE the diode on my output lead so I get full wave AC power for the grips and light,, instead of halfwave DC which is just a waste of half of the power output. Grips work great, and since I try to avoid blowing snow in the dark, I don't miss the light.

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post #7 of 17 Old 02-11-2017, 01:40 PM
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I would get a volt meter on there and see what happens.

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post #8 of 17 Old 02-11-2017, 02:21 PM
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I've been trying to get to the bottom of the electrical specifics of a light coils output capacity and what happens when you go over it. I been contemplating all this for my led upgrade on my Honda HSS. In my case I have the luxury of an on board battery.

My thoughts are that if the light coil produces say 15volts and 20 watts @ 3600 rpm... And you have 36 watts of total lights. The alternator will provide the wattage draw of the lights but at the expense of voltage. These alternators do not have voltage regulation like a generator does.

So the alternator provides the 36 watts but only at 9-10 volts. The LEDs may require 10 volts minimum which is what I found is common. Now you load the engine and RPMs drop to 3300 rpm. Now the alternators output voltage drops to 7, and the Electrical loads go haywire..

I'm not an electrical engineer but I know enough about home generators and that when you go over their rated wattage, voltage drops, and sensitive electronics suffer the consequences.

Definitely get a voltage meter on there and check back.

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post #9 of 17 Old 02-11-2017, 03:21 PM
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I also have an EFI machine (Platinum 24). Personally, I wouldn't do anything that might affect the electrical load.

The electrical circuit for EFI is carefully construed. With a CPU in there, and sensors for barometric conditions, engine temp., load on the machine, etc., you have an advanced piece of technology.

Without full knowledge of the circuits involved, and the effect of increased electrical draw, there's a risk of compromising the system, or damaging parts.

If you're good with electronics, perhaps you can figure all this out.

My wife's an electrical engineer, and she says without schematics and a wiring diagram (showing all parts and their values), it's not easy to predict the effect of adding additional electrical components to a system.
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post #10 of 17 Old 02-12-2017, 04:03 AM
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GMorning Strato & swcheese, Would you guys mind supply me the model numbers from your machines?? I have not run into these EFI machines yet, but have a great interest in them...... Any EFI system relies heavily on electronics. They are extremely sensitive to voltage variations, ESP A/C voltage, which will make the computer go haywire. EFI relies on digital signals, (on-off) and need clean DC only voltage. Any A/C leakage into the system, will cause problems. It's obvious that the lights have caused a problem, but it's not yet known if it's a supply problem or A/C leakage. If you test the voltage, I'd be interested in knowing the DC & AC voltage readings, if you don't mind, and the cut-off voltage when the engine performance suffers (as in, disconnecting 1 light have an effect, or both). Do these EFI systems use batteries for starting? On-board batteries can be used for starting, but just as important, the battery will act as a capacitor, to help filter out any AC voltage. That's why I'm asking for model numbers on the machines, as I'd like to download the wiring diagrams. To stay ahead of the curve, as well as satisfy my curiosity.

Thanx in Advance, jay

Last edited by JayzAuto1; 02-12-2017 at 04:05 AM. Reason: Fat finger spelling, missed by spell check
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