sno tek 22" Impeller Kit - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 7 Old 03-13-2017, 01:04 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 2
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 0
Thanks (Received): 0
Likes (Given): 0
Likes (Received): 0
Unhappy sno tek 22" Impeller Kit

Hello guys, i have a sno-tek 24" snowblower, any recommendations on an impeller kit? I just found out about what an impeller kit does and it looks something i want to install on my snowblower. It's a little too late for me to buy a kit since the northeaster is hitting us tonight, but for future snowstorms, it will be useful.
thanks
nachumama is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 7 Old 03-13-2017, 01:22 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 1,422
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 5
Thanks (Received): 112
Likes (Given): 13
Likes (Received): 292
Quote:
Originally Posted by nachumama View Post
Hello guys, i have a sno-tek 24" snowblower, any recommendations on an impeller kit? I just found out about what an impeller kit does and it looks something i want to install on my snowblower. It's a little too late for me to buy a kit since the northeaster is hitting us tonight, but for future snowstorms, it will be useful.
thanks
You can get kits on Ebay, or you can make them yourself using baler belting, or a reinforced mud flap from a truck. Check and see how much of a gap there is between your impeller blades and the housing. If the gap is very small the kit may not have much of an effect. If it's larger, it does make a big difference, especially when the snow is wet and sloppy.

I made a little wood template cut to the size of the impeller blade and drilled 3 evenly spaced holes in it, making sure that the holes would not come through where the reinforcing steel is welded in on the back side of the impeller blades. Also spaced the holes so that the bolts and washers would not overlap. I clamped the wood template onto the impeller blade, and drilled the holes.

Then I clamped the template to the rubber paddles, and drilled through. I left them a bit long so they could be trimmed to fit. I left about a 1/16 gap from the rubber to the housing so I wouldn't scrape off the paint. I also had to notch the ends of the paddles a bit to clear some bolt heads on the inside of the impeller housing that are used to hold plastic chute assembly on the housing. I used self tapping 1/8 diameter screws with a pilot drill end to attach the paddles, with steel washers to hold the paddles on. Second year they are on, and everything is good still.

Word of warning, while you are drilling the holes for the mounting bolts, wear gloves in case you slip. Skin is better left on your knuckles than on the inside of the chute area.

Work fascinates me.
I can watch somebody work for hours...
2008 Craftsman 944.528391 (It's a Husqvarna ST227P)
27", B&S 305cc 13.5 ft/lb Torque 9.5 hp
skutflut is offline  
post #3 of 7 Old 03-13-2017, 10:20 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 2
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 0
Thanks (Received): 0
Likes (Given): 0
Likes (Received): 0
thank you brother for your reply. I gave the wrong info regarding the size of my ariens sno tek snow blower, it's a 20" snow blower and i saw that there was half an inch of space between the impeller and the housing. so i think i should definitely buy a kit. does it matter what size kit i buy? or should i go measure the gap first then find a kit that will fit? or are they universal kits?
thanks for all your help brother.
nachumama is offline  
post #4 of 7 Old 03-14-2017, 09:09 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Northville NY - Southern Adirondack Mtns.
Posts: 1,356
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 1
Thanks (Received): 89
Likes (Given): 24
Likes (Received): 220
Any kit will fit. You just need to get a kit that has the correct number or pieces of rubber (or more) than the number of vanes there are on your impeller. You probably have 3.

As was said, 1/2" is a fairly big gap, so you should see a big improvement with the kit. You may want to watch some YouTube videos before actually doing it.
RIT333 is online now  
post #5 of 7 Old 03-14-2017, 09:43 AM
Senior Member
 
JLawrence08648's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Lawrenceville NJ
Posts: 2,148
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 89
Thanks (Received): 180
Likes (Given): 69
Likes (Received): 409
Garage
Skutflut - using a template for uniformity and correctness and keeping a hair of space is a good idea though self tapping screws scares me, I'd feel safer using bolts and torque nuts.

Thanks for sharing.

1986 Ariens ST522, 5hp, 22"
1995 Murray Craftsman 10hp, 29" w. 12" impeller
A 1983 Real John Deere 10hp, 32" w. 12" impeller, 16" auger, 20" high front, cast iron gear box, chains
Noma 9hp, 27" w. 12" impeller
Noma 5hp, 24" w. 12" impeller, 20" high front
Gravely Convertible, 12hp Kohler cast iron, 26" width, 600 lbs of cast iron & steel, 2 speed impeller, 4 ground speeds
Dynamark 8hp, 26", 12" impeller, for sale
Several other 5hp, 8hp, several 2 cycle, all for sale
JLawrence08648 is online now  
post #6 of 7 Old 03-14-2017, 10:02 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 1,422
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 5
Thanks (Received): 112
Likes (Given): 13
Likes (Received): 292
Quote:
Originally Posted by JLawrence08648 View Post
Skutflut - using a template for uniformity and correctness and keeping a hair of space is a good idea though self tapping screws scares me, I'd feel safer using bolts and torque nuts.

Thanks for sharing.
Those self tapping screws are holding up fine after two seasons. They are actually 3/16, not 1/8. Just noticed I put in the wrong size. I wondered if they would be a problem at first, but these things are beefy and have not loosened at all. I actually bought some 3/16 nuts and bolts at the same time, so if the selftaps didn't work, I would just replace them. It was so much easier just putting in the selftaps with an impact tool, and they have not budged. Its getting harder to bend and reach stuff as I get older, lots of things go click, clunk and creek, (I mean my body, not the snowblower) so the thought of putting 9 nylock nuts on bolts did not appeal that day.

Work fascinates me.
I can watch somebody work for hours...
2008 Craftsman 944.528391 (It's a Husqvarna ST227P)
27", B&S 305cc 13.5 ft/lb Torque 9.5 hp

Last edited by skutflut; 03-14-2017 at 10:07 AM.
skutflut is offline  
post #7 of 7 Old 03-14-2017, 10:30 AM
Senior Member
 
JLawrence08648's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Lawrenceville NJ
Posts: 2,148
Post Thanks / Like
Thanks (Given): 89
Thanks (Received): 180
Likes (Given): 69
Likes (Received): 409
Garage
I remember reading before, you or others using self tapping. I'm glad you clarified using 3/16" instead, having more surface contact than 1/8". Good choice using 3/16", I'd feel more comfortable using a locking "cement", Locktite, a collared self tapping, with star washers. After 2 years still holding? That's a good period of use but what concerns me for using them, once they start loosening, there's no stopping. You tighten them, they loosen even more. I wouldn't remove them, check them often, then keep in mind Locktite and star washers. Certainly using self tapping is easier but I'm more conservative and rather spend the time once and feel more comfortable than checking and to me, worrying.

1986 Ariens ST522, 5hp, 22"
1995 Murray Craftsman 10hp, 29" w. 12" impeller
A 1983 Real John Deere 10hp, 32" w. 12" impeller, 16" auger, 20" high front, cast iron gear box, chains
Noma 9hp, 27" w. 12" impeller
Noma 5hp, 24" w. 12" impeller, 20" high front
Gravely Convertible, 12hp Kohler cast iron, 26" width, 600 lbs of cast iron & steel, 2 speed impeller, 4 ground speeds
Dynamark 8hp, 26", 12" impeller, for sale
Several other 5hp, 8hp, several 2 cycle, all for sale
JLawrence08648 is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome