Ariens 924086 leaking gas after priming - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 19 Old 11-24-2017, 08:33 PM Thread Starter
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Ariens 924086 leaking gas after priming

Hello snow blower owners,
I picked up a used Ariens snow blower this summer for under a $150.00.s. The owner was moving to Florida from the Buffalo area and was selling everything. In any event, I waited to the last day and made an offer which we both could live with. the snow blower is approximately 13 years old and has electric start.
I actually have two questions/concerns. The first is - after I prime the snow blower, gas (1 X prime) is coming out of the carburetor area, is this normal? The other concern, which I can live with this winter, is the lock differential hub. It works - in locked mode and unlocked mode but when the blower is idling it creeps backward, shouldn't it remain stationary?
Thanks for any help,
Tim
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post #2 of 19 Old 11-24-2017, 09:31 PM
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When you hit the primer bulb it in essence pushes some raw gas into the throat of the carb. Push enough in there and it can run out. If the friction disc is pressing against the friction plate, it will move the blower. Sounds like you have some adjusting to do on the unit IMO.
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post #3 of 19 Old 11-24-2017, 11:08 PM
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with tecumseh engines gas dripping like that is normal, in my opinion its a poor design and i always thought there should be a little bowl undeneath the intake like many 2 stroke engines have. just make sure it only leaks when primed or when being rolled backwards shortly after being primed without being started, any other leaking is not normal

Last edited by 43128; 11-24-2017 at 11:15 PM.
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post #4 of 19 Old 11-25-2017, 11:43 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 43128 View Post
with tecumseh engines gas dripping like that is normal, in my opinion its a poor design and i always thought there should be a little bowl undeneath the intake like many 2 stroke engines have. just make sure it only leaks when primed or when being rolled backwards shortly after being primed without being started, any other leaking is not normal
Thanks for taking the time to respond. I was thinking the same thing concerning the drips. Since it is somewhat normal I guess - I will try to come up with some way of catching it. This only happens when I prime the unit.
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post #5 of 19 Old 11-25-2017, 11:47 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HCBPH View Post
When you hit the primer bulb it in essence pushes some raw gas into the throat of the carb. Push enough in there and it can run out. If the friction disc is pressing against the friction plate, it will move the blower. Sounds like you have some adjusting to do on the unit IMO.
Thanks for the help. I will check out friction disc - but with the snow blower in forward drive, it should move forward, not backward, I'm assuming.
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post #6 of 19 Old 11-25-2017, 11:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aldfam4 View Post
Hello snow blower owners,
.......
The other concern, which I can live with this winter, is the lock differential hub. It works - in locked mode and unlocked mode but when the blower is idling it creeps backward, shouldn't it remain stationary?
Thanks for any help,
Tim
Here is a link for parts diagrams for your machine: https://www.ereplacementparts.com/ar...26_157436.html

Your machine should remain stationary in neutral with the engine running, and also any gear if the clutch lever is not pressed. If the machine backs up while idling in neutral then you probably have two adjustments to make. The rubber tired disc is not centered over the drive plate and the clutch that moves the drive plate into contact with the rubber tired disc does not have enough play or the return spring is broken or damaged.

Your machine will have a plate on the underside of the chassis that can be removed when the 6 screws are removed. So first ensure there is very little gas in the tank and lift the handles so the machine rests on the auger housing. Remove the chassis plate with the 6 or so screws. You will see the round drive plate and the rubber tired driven disc that crosses over the face of the drive plate when the gear shifter is moved from reverse to highest gear. Put the gear shift in neutral. The driven rubber tired disc should be in the middle of the drive disc. If not adjust the gear shift rod (lengthen or shorten the adjustment) so that the rubber tired drive disc is over the center (usually visible by a circle) of the drive plate. So now when going into reverse the driven disc should be a little to one side of center. Then move the gear shift to the highest gear and it should move the driven disc all the way to the other side of center.

Next check for a small space between drive plate and driven disc by pulling and pushing the drive plate toward the rubber tired driven disc and away from it. There should be a small 1/8" of free play and a spring should pull the driven plate away from the driven disc. If there is no spring return for the drive plate then the spring is not working and needs to be replaced. The spring is usually attached to the same rod as the clutch wire and the other end of spring is attached to the chassis (should be able to see it on outside of chassis). To adjust the free play the wire from the wheel drive clutch needs to be adjusted. There should be a barrel nut and a locknut in the wire from clutch handle before it enters the chassis. Adjust that barrel nut to give some free play in the lever which will allow the gap between the drive plate and the driven disc to be 1/8" or so.

Good luck.

2015 Ariens Platinum 30 SHO - model 921040
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post #7 of 19 Old 11-25-2017, 12:14 PM
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Tim,
Just FYI, your snowblower is probably 23 years old, not 13!
Not that it really matters..age can be irrelevant with snowblowers if they are well cared for.

If you want, look for the Tecumseh engine tag on the side of the engine, and post all the numbers on the tag..that can give us the exact model year. Also post the model and serial numbers from the Ariens tag at the rear of the machine, and we can find the manuals.

Scot


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post #8 of 19 Old 11-25-2017, 01:33 PM
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shouldnt leak after 1 prime imo, maybe time for a carb clean/teardown as that fixed my 30yr old craftsman tecumseh 10hp that sat neglected for yrs w/gas in the system. all my carb passages were plugged
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post #9 of 19 Old 11-25-2017, 07:36 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Town View Post
Here is a link for parts diagrams for your machine: https://www.ereplacementparts.com/ar...26_157436.html

Your machine should remain stationary in neutral with the engine running, and also any gear if the clutch lever is not pressed. If the machine backs up while idling in neutral then you probably have two adjustments to make. The rubber tired disc is not centered over the drive plate and the clutch that moves the drive plate into contact with the rubber tired disc does not have enough play or the return spring is broken or damaged.

Your machine will have a plate on the underside of the chassis that can be removed when the 6 screws are removed. So first ensure there is very little gas in the tank and lift the handles so the machine rests on the auger housing. Remove the chassis plate with the 6 or so screws. You will see the round drive plate and the rubber tired driven disc that crosses over the face of the drive plate when the gear shifter is moved from reverse to highest gear. Put the gear shift in neutral. The driven rubber tired disc should be in the middle of the drive disc. If not adjust the gear shift rod (lengthen or shorten the adjustment) so that the rubber tired drive disc is over the center (usually visible by a circle) of the drive plate. So now when going into reverse the driven disc should be a little to one side of center. Then move the gear shift to the highest gear and it should move the driven disc all the way to the other side of center.

Next check for a small space between drive plate and driven disc by pulling and pushing the drive plate toward the rubber tired driven disc and away from it. There should be a small 1/8" of free play and a spring should pull the driven plate away from the driven disc. If there is no spring return for the drive plate then the spring is not working and needs to be replaced. The spring is usually attached to the same rod as the clutch wire and the other end of spring is attached to the chassis (should be able to see it on outside of chassis). To adjust the free play the wire from the wheel drive clutch needs to be adjusted. There should be a barrel nut and a locknut in the wire from clutch handle before it enters the chassis. Adjust that barrel nut to give some free play in the lever which will allow the gap between the drive plate and the driven disc to be 1/8" or so.

Good luck.

Hello Town,


Thank you so much for the detailed response. I am on it tomorrow. We both experience some serious snow storms and I like to be ready. Lake effect snow in the Buffalo, N.Y. area can be a real problem. I have 3 snow blowers ready for duty!
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post #10 of 19 Old 11-25-2017, 07:55 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sscotsman View Post
Tim,
Just FYI, your snowblower is probably 23 years old, not 13!
Not that it really matters..age can be irrelevant with snowblowers if they are well cared for.

If you want, look for the Tecumseh engine tag on the side of the engine, and post all the numbers on the tag..that can give us the exact model year. Also post the model and serial numbers from the Ariens tag at the rear of the machine, and we can find the manuals.

Scot
Thank you sscotsman for your reply - yes I can get that information. Off the top of my head, I have an Ariens ST28 - model #924086. On the Engine I recall a number indicating year 2004, month April - I will recheck. The previous owner also said the snow blower was 13 years old. It looks to be in pretty good shape considering the Lake Effect Snow we have to deal with! So glad to get a response from a WNY'er., I'm sure you know what I'm talking about. I have 2 other snow blowers ready to go!!!
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