Predator Repower on old 10m5 - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 17 Old 01-01-2018, 10:19 PM Thread Starter
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Predator Repower on old 10m5

Hey guys new member here. Iíve read through a bunch of posts and after much back and forth I decided to go with a new Predator vs. overhaul of my HSK70 (I will save that as a future project). I am 3rd generation over of my 1968 10m5 so this year I am giving it some love for its 50th birthday. I got to the point tonight to set the new engine on the frame and the studs are half inch too short? Whatís the best way to get those old studs out? Are they just press fit or are they tack welded in place? Thanks!


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post #2 of 17 Old 01-01-2018, 10:23 PM
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I just did a slightly newer Ariens and they were tack welded.

There's just one thing I'll guarantee , the best things in life, they sure AIN'T FREE !!

88 Craftsman II Trac-Plus 10/32 [wheeled conversion]
71 Ariens SnoThro 6/24 [Predator 6.5 repower]
72 Ariens SnoThro 6/24 with original Tecumseh H60
7? Ariens Tractor with rotary mower attachment [Tecumseh HSK100 repower]
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post #3 of 17 Old 01-01-2018, 10:33 PM
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just knock them out with a mini sledge and replace them with new 5/16 bolts. i tack weld the new ones in from the top so they dont fall through the chassis
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post #4 of 17 Old 01-01-2018, 10:38 PM Thread Starter
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Good deal! Thanks guys!


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post #5 of 17 Old 01-01-2018, 10:46 PM
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I just cut them off and popped them out ... I might have drilled out a tough one if I remember on my 10M5 conversion to a Predator.

When you put in the new bolts, cut some small circles out of a milk jug or such, with a slightly smaller hole than the new bolt. Slid the bolt up through the frame and slide the plastic home made thin washer over it. It will hold the bolts in place when setting the engine down on the frame, in case you cant tack them there with a welder.
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post #6 of 17 Old 01-01-2018, 11:16 PM
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https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt...0411/202704592


you can also use these but if you choose to use these you have to use low grade bolts. i use grade 5 bolts which have a tiny shoulder built in
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post #7 of 17 Old 01-01-2018, 11:35 PM Thread Starter
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Iím not too keen about the chute control relocation to get around the OHV, but I think I can tweak that with more time and parts in the future.


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post #8 of 17 Old 01-01-2018, 11:43 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 43128 View Post
just knock them out with a mini sledge and replace them with new 5/16 bolts. i tack weld the new ones in from the top so they dont fall through the chassis


Note to self... donít tap out studs when alarm is set! Glass break sensor senses said ďtappingĒ. That will have to wait till tomorrow.


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post #9 of 17 Old 01-02-2018, 12:36 PM
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I've done quite a few by cutting the studs out with a cutoff tool and 4 inch grinder, then centerpunching the studs and drilling and tapping to 5/16. The first one I did has lasted 15 years with no problems.
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post #10 of 17 Old 01-02-2018, 02:36 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the tips guys! I might go with the plastic bottle trick for the time being. I am working on this project in my basement and my welding stuff is in my parents garage. Hopefully I can get the old ones out without too much trouble. This simple engine swap is less simple than I hoped. When I put the HSK70 on it a few years ago from another donor machine, it was only a 20 minute project...
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