Cracks in Auger Housing - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 13 Old 01-15-2018, 05:16 PM Thread Starter
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Cracks in Auger Housing

I just discovered a nice crack in my auger housing in my 1973 32" 10000 series.

I am not exactly thrilled about this, since it was certainly there before I bought the machine and I overlooked it.

How hard is it to repair something like this? I'd ideally like to hammer it back into place and weld it. Is it even worth repairing?

Honestly I am getting fed up with this thing. Between replacement parts being non-existent and now this, what a PITA.
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Last edited by WalkThisWhey; 01-15-2018 at 05:18 PM.
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post #2 of 13 Old 01-15-2018, 05:29 PM
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Plenty of Steel to Weld, unlike Today's Junk. Hammer and Weld it. Parts are Available if You Know Where to Look.
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post #3 of 13 Old 01-15-2018, 05:30 PM
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You can drill a hole at the end of the crack, to at least help stop it from spreading further. One way to repair it would be to clean up the rust where it needs to be welded, and somehow get it back into position (maybe clamps, vs hammering?), then weld it. When I bought my Ariens (much newer), I discovered a broken weld at the corner of the bucket. Fortunately it wasn't bent, so welding it back together wasn't a big deal.

Because this "flap" goes over a bent area of the other piece, you might be able to hammer/clamp it back into-position, drill a hole through both, and run a bolt through them. If you can weld it yourself, great, do that. But if not, this might be a simpler, cheaper approach.

Sorry to hear about the issues. Hopefully once you get it back in-shape, it will be ready for years of service, without additional hassle.

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post #4 of 13 Old 01-15-2018, 05:41 PM
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Had similar on my Yardman 7100, just welded it up, primed and painted,... better than new ....
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post #5 of 13 Old 01-15-2018, 05:51 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jackmels View Post
Plenty of Steel to Weld, unlike Today's Junk. Hammer and Weld it. Parts are Available if You Know Where to Look.
Thanks Jack - it is pretty thick.

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Originally Posted by RedOctobyr View Post
You can drill a hole at the end of the crack, to at least help stop it from spreading further. One way to repair it would be to clean up the rust where it needs to be welded, and somehow get it back into position (maybe clamps, vs hammering?), then weld it. When I bought my Ariens (much newer), I discovered a broken weld at the corner of the bucket. Fortunately it wasn't bent, so welding it back together wasn't a big deal.

Because this "flap" goes over a bent area of the other piece, you might be able to hammer/clamp it back into-position, drill a hole through both, and run a bolt through them. If you can weld it yourself, great, do that. But if not, this might be a simpler, cheaper approach.

Sorry to hear about the issues. Hopefully once you get it back in-shape, it will be ready for years of service, without additional hassle.
The drill and bolt idea is pretty good. I don't have a welder which makes this frustrating but next season I will give this a try.
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post #6 of 13 Old 01-15-2018, 06:07 PM
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thats pretty common on 10000 series when people dont change/adjust their skids and scraper. just hammer the metal back weld it and adjust skids, more then likely scraper is shot. i can see somebody neglected to replace there skids, metals gone and you can see through to concrete
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post #7 of 13 Old 01-15-2018, 08:31 PM
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Broke on my JD because the skids weren't adjusted. No big deal just pushed it back to the original weld spot and welded it up, never had another issue out of the housing. Did have to replace the clearing blade though. I still need new skids but I'll get through this winter.
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post #8 of 13 Old 01-15-2018, 09:05 PM
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Ive had to weld MTD blowers where the bucket and body hook together. Common on them to crack, there is alot of flex in the connection. Weld em up and carry on. As long as there is enough metal you can weld it.
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post #9 of 13 Old 01-16-2018, 02:46 AM
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yup, nothing to get bent out of shape about. Especially on a 1973 machine. 45 years old. You would have cracks and scrapes and be bent out of shape too at 45.
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post #10 of 13 Old 01-16-2018, 03:05 AM
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Beautiful meat to cook up there, no problem.

Clean it up, clamp and tack the flanged part first then do the actual crack. Drill the end as suggested to help stop the spread, and to give the weld a place to 'bite' there.

Piece o' cake.


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