910962 (I believe) questions/help sought
Howdy all. I'll get right to the point- warning, I tend to be long winded, but I like giving the best info I can to start off to make sure recipients understand what I've done and what the exact nature of the issues are.
I own what I believe is a 1971-72 910962 with a 910995 attachment. I say "believe" because I know it has an H70 engine, 910995 attachment, the clutch lever on the handlebars is on the underside, throttle is also on the left. Unfortunately the ID stamp behind the left wheel is surface rusted exactly on the spot where the model and serial should be, and the sticker forward of this, no model/serial are printed. However, using Scot's website pics and searching around the internet, I believe this is what I own.
Anyway, this was my step-grandfather's machine until he passed, where my father inherited it in the late 80's. My brother for the following 20 or so years did all my dad's snow work at his house and used the 920003 he had cause this machine was always troublesome - and unfortunately my father (a maintenance electrician) was no small power equipment genius - therefore neither was my brother.
This unit is very rusty, but for the most part completely intact, I have most issues figured out. I just rebuilt the carb and it runs mostly great. The electric starter screws were very loose (one was just laying on the housing all these years of use, wonder it worked at all). I have a few questions on the rest of it's issues though, and am looking for any help/advise I can get.
1) shift linkage - the best way I can describe this is yesterday I removed the bottom cover plate, and cleaned the hex shaft with carb cleaner, then used some lithium grease spray on it - and for awhile the friction wheel shifted freely (I covered the wheel and plate when I sprayed), albeit with some effort to move from 1-4 to N-R. It's as if there's a linkage "safety" somewhere that is out of alignment/adjustment I'm not thinking of. When the grease was "wet", it moved from 1-4 nicely, and with a little clutch lever finagling, N to R freely. It plainly does not like to go from a forward gear to a non-forward gear. I tried to find shift lever pivot points on the linkage arms, but maybe I missed something there. I noticed a few hours later, it did not like shifting from 1-4 nearly as well (the shift arm will actually bend under the pressure I place on the shift lever).
I also will state...my clutch lever, I have to "find the sweet spot" in shifting, meaning different squeeze pressures tend to work best and I have to do it by "feel". I have a heckuva time getting the axle to free-wheel (finding neutral). It can be done, it's just very hard to get it there.
So...for one, is there a grease I should be using that works best when it's down below say 15F degrees? Rust isn't an issue, the hex shaft is shiny. I've also noticed that when it's warmer, it tends to shift much easier overall, again except for going from forward to non-forward and obviously the opposite.
That's gotta be some sort of adjustment in either the clutch lever assembly or the shifter assembly (both of these under the hood, not externally with the levers themselves). I did some similar work to my 920003 yesterday, and that thing now shifts like a champ.
2) Choke lever fully off. The choke works, once it warms up, obviously I turn the choke off. However, I noticed, the lever "bounces", and the engine stammers while bouncing. Say I move the machine to plow snow, choke fully off, the lever will move horizontally and the engine tends to stammer as it moves to the right/rear. It's "free from being held in fully off position", and I noticed the pivot "lock" on the carb choke...it has indentations to hold the choke in say quarter choke, half choke, 3/4, and full...but NOT for fully off. SO, it bounces between fully off and quarter choke "locked in place".
Is this how it's supposed to work? Or is that little vertical coiled spring that allows the choke to be held supposed to always be in contact with the pivot, therefore holding the choke fully off?
3) simply put, I think my gas tank is rusting on the inside. When my father owned it, it had to go into the shop darn near annually for a carb kit overhaul, and material that looked like rust was inside the float bowl. When I rebuilt the carb a couple days ago, didn't look like there was any dirt in the bowl, but considering the carb was indeed clogged somewhere, I believe going to a plastic tank might resolve this (even though the tank itself on the inside looks shiny and rust free from what I can see).
So...what would be the proper plastic tank to buy nowadays, and anybody know which is the best (least expensive) place online to order it?
4) there's no fuel filter...would a fuel filter be feasible, and if so, any particular one work best? Since the fuel line is mostly horizontal, I take it I don't want to use a "diaphragm spinning top" looking filter and want one more of an "inline" filter.
Sorry for War and Peace here...but I figured this is the right place to ask. I found a lot of answers for these thru the years on my Ariens for simpler stuff, just couldn't find any for these in particular except for the grease (varying opinions there).
Last edited by tlshawks; 02-10-2018 at 03:17 PM.