Loose Muffler Tecumseh 8 horse - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
 
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post #1 of 10 Old 02-25-2018, 03:24 PM Thread Starter
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Loose Muffler Tecumseh 8 horse

I am fixing up an older (late 80's) Ariens ST 824 with a Tecumseh motor. I was going through it and noticed the muffler was loose so I tightened the bolts and bent the keeper ears up against the landings on the heads. I let it run in the driveway for about 45 minutes to adjust the carb and when I got done I noticed that the muffler was loose again and the bolts backed out.

Question 1. Is there supposed to be a gasket between the muffler and the manifold?

Question 2. How the heck to I get those bolts to stay tight?

TIA

Mark
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post #2 of 10 Old 02-25-2018, 03:38 PM
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Here's a thread from just a few weeks ago (Feb ?) where a similar issue was discussed and solved:

https://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum...acket-mtd.html
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post #3 of 10 Old 02-25-2018, 03:44 PM
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Backed out or pulled out? If the tabs are over the head of the bolts, they can't back out, they have to pull out. If that is the case then your threads are shot. You could try Loc-Tite, a liquid adhesive that you apply to the threads. If that fails you could drill out and re-thread with the next size larger, or tap out and use a Heli-Coil insert, there are others also, some much improved. Heli-Coil is the original and still perfectly fine.

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post #4 of 10 Old 02-25-2018, 03:58 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Man! That helped a lot. I don't think I had the tabs bent up tight enough.
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post #5 of 10 Old 02-25-2018, 03:59 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks! I will try some Hi temp Loctite as well!
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post #6 of 10 Old 02-25-2018, 04:10 PM
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I hate to unscrew those bolts. Any time you remove bolts from aluminum you are shortening the life of the threads. Besides those threads get destroyed from the extreme heat of the exhaust.

If the threads are holding using the tabs then I wouldn't use Loc-Tite. The only thing I ALWAYS put on exhaust threads is Never-Seize, a high temp graphite paste. If you decide to use Loc-Tite, use a low holding strength.

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1995 Murray Craftsman 10hp, 29" w. 12" impeller
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Noma 9hp, 27" w. 12" impeller
Noma 5hp, 24" w. 12" impeller, 20" high front
Gravely Convertible, 12hp Kohler cast iron, 26" width, 600 lbs of cast iron & steel, 2 speed impeller, 4 ground speeds
Dynamark 8hp, 26", 12" impeller, for sale
Several other 5hp, 8hp, several 2 cycle, all for sale
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post #7 of 10 Old 02-25-2018, 04:58 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks J. What do you think about wrapping fine copper wire on the threads before I run them back in? I have read elsewhere that it will strengthen the threads and make the fastener more secure.
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post #8 of 10 Old 02-25-2018, 05:03 PM
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Install the keeper tabs tight against the flat of the hex bolts you should not need any thread locker. It would be a belt and suspenders redundancy.
As JLawrence said I would use some antisieze on the threads. That is so they come out easy in the future. Unless they are stripped, i would leave it there.

I have noticed most of the Tecumseh engines I work on do not have a muffler gasket. I think they dropped using one a long time ago.

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post #9 of 10 Old 02-25-2018, 05:11 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Toro
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post #10 of 10 Old 02-25-2018, 05:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snapbean View Post
Thanks J. What do you think about wrapping fine copper wire on the threads before I run them back in? I have read elsewhere that it will strengthen the threads and make the fastener more secure.
I've never done it but I would worry it might damage the aluminum threads. I don't know which metal is softer but even if the copper is softer I wouldn't want to find out on my engine if it gave before the aluminum threads in the block.

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Make sure the windows are up before the snow plow goes by !!

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