End of season storage question - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 18 Old 03-20-2018, 01:49 PM Thread Starter
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End of season storage question

So I just picked up a brand new 24 platinum SHO and it came from the dealer with a full tank of gas and it’s gonna snow today and tomorrow so I’ll get use out of it. My question is the manual says to run fuel stabilizer in it for 5 min or so then shut the fuel switch off and let the motor die. Then it’s good for the summer. The dealer told me to drain every ounce of gas out of the machine and run it dry. Ariens directly told me to do the manual way. Is there a definitive yes or no on this. I’ve had snowblowers before but kind just ran them empty or forgot and I thankfully never had an issue but with this new purchase
I wanna make sure it lasts and I take care of the unit. Thanks you in advance for any responses
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post #2 of 18 Old 03-20-2018, 02:05 PM
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When you get done with it 4 the year run the whole BLOODY thing Bone dry the tank, carb and lines. and leave it that way.

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post #3 of 18 Old 03-20-2018, 02:14 PM
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I've always run by blower dry at the end of the season (regardless of tank level). Some years running the blower dry is the only exercise it gets.

2017 Husqvarna ST224P
2005 Ariens ST1332DLE (sold)
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post #4 of 18 Old 03-20-2018, 02:22 PM
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When I'm done with blower I clean it off and shove it in the back of my shed and place a board under the bucket. Never have drained tanks. Have always used stabilized gasoline up to this past fall when a non E station opened. I just did get my blowers out of storage last evening and the Toro started 1st pull and the Airens Sno Tek started with just a touch of the electric starter. I dunno... This method has never failed me yet. JMHO.

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post #5 of 18 Old 03-20-2018, 02:51 PM
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You are going to get a mix of opinions on this, it is so divided that I feel no one is right and you have to do what you think is right!

Now my opinion, I feel strongly that if you have a metal tank, you leave fuel in there, topped off with stabilizer added. If you have a plastic tank I'm divided but prefer to add stabilizer, run the machine, then drain the tank and fuel bowl, and try to start it to run any gas out of the carb. Some will drain the tank and run until the machine stops. However I also add a fuel cleaner to the gas can.

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1995 Murray Craftsman 10hp, 29" w. 12" impeller
A 1983 Real John Deere 10hp, 32" w. 12" impeller, 16" auger, 20" high front, cast iron gear box, chains
Noma 9hp, 27" w. 12" impeller
Noma 5hp, 24" w. 12" impeller, 20" high front
Gravely Convertible, 12hp Kohler cast iron, 26" width, 600 lbs of cast iron & steel, 2 speed impeller, 4 ground speeds
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post #6 of 18 Old 03-20-2018, 03:22 PM
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Personally, for anything that's going to be stored for a while, it gets stabilizer, run for a few minutes and the tank topped off before storage. Oil gets changed before storage and a little light oil in the cylinder(s) to protect against surface rust from moisture. On that final shutdown before the oil change, I'd shut off the fuel valve and let it run the carb dry.

When it's time to re-activate for the next season, pull the spark plug(s), spin it over to force out any excess fogging oil, clean or replace the plug and start it up.

As long as you're not in a situation where the fuel tank is likely to collect a lot of condensation (which it shouldn't if it's full), I see no issue with storing something with a full tank of stabilized fuel. I've seen plenty of boats running on year-old ethanol containing fuel (with stabilizer) with no issues. With ethanol fuel, as long as it doesn't absorb enough moisture to cause separation, any water will be harmlessly absorbed and run right through (just like adding dry-gas to non-ethanol fuel to absorb any moisture in the tank).
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post #7 of 18 Old 03-20-2018, 03:23 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JLawrence08648 View Post
You are going to get a mix of opinions on this, it is so divided that I feel no one is right and you have to do what you think is right!

Now my opinion, I feel strongly that if you have a metal tank, you leave fuel in there, topped off with stabilizer added. If you have a plastic tank I'm divided but prefer to add stabilizer, run the machine, then drain the tank and fuel bowl, and try to start it to run any gas out of the carb. Some will drain the tank and run until the machine stops. However I also add a fuel cleaner to the gas can.
So you leave the tank full? I was going to fill the tank with fuel and stabilizer and shut the fuel off and let whatever is in the carb burn off and let the machine die on it’s own
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post #8 of 18 Old 03-20-2018, 04:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kenneth Richard View Post
So you leave the tank full? I was going to fill the tank with fuel and stabilizer and shut the fuel off and let whatever is in the carb burn off and let the machine die on itís own
If it's a metal tank it's full with the shut off valve off and stabilizer added. The rest of what you said is fine.

1986 Ariens ST522, 5hp, 22"
1995 Murray Craftsman 10hp, 29" w. 12" impeller
A 1983 Real John Deere 10hp, 32" w. 12" impeller, 16" auger, 20" high front, cast iron gear box, chains
Noma 9hp, 27" w. 12" impeller
Noma 5hp, 24" w. 12" impeller, 20" high front
Gravely Convertible, 12hp Kohler cast iron, 26" width, 600 lbs of cast iron & steel, 2 speed impeller, 4 ground speeds
Dynamark 8hp, 26", 12" impeller, for sale
Several other 5hp, 8hp, several 2 cycle, all for sale
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post #9 of 18 Old 03-20-2018, 04:57 PM
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There is no definitive right/wrong on this. Fuel stabilizer should keep the fuel usable during summer layup . . . but if there is no fuel in it then no worries about the fuel aging and causing problems in the fall.

Regards, Ted
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post #10 of 18 Old 03-20-2018, 05:13 PM Thread Starter
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