Ariens wont throw snow far, boggs out - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 30 Old 01-13-2013, 03:38 PM Thread Starter
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Ariens wont throw snow far, boggs out

Hey all, just joined the forum today. I have been messing with the snowblower for a while now and was hoping to get some results here....

First off, i used this site to identify the year, and im 99% sure its a 1973: The Ariens 1960's and 1970's Sno-Thro info site.

So i have been messing with the carb since this summer. i got this thing for free, threw on a new belt and cleaned the carb and got it running good. i played with the jetting and got that good as well. but when i would hit snow it wouldnt throw it very far. and after like 5 mins of use, it would want to die when i hit snow. i went through the carb again, installed a rebuild kit, messed with the jetting again etc etc.

so i tried it again today and the same thing is happening. it worked good for 5 minutes (except only threw snow about 6 feet). then after a few minutes when i hit snow it wouldnt throw any and would want to die. the only snow that would come out were logs. after i stopped the drive it would slowly push out 3 or so solid blocks of snow and ploo em right on the ground next to it. any insight?

i made a perfect video of all this but cant upload it! here are some pics though


and i must add, one of the inner rotor fins is bent, but i dont think its causing such an issue....


HELP I AM A NEW ENGLANDER! THANKS IN ADVANCE!
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post #2 of 30 Old 01-13-2013, 03:51 PM
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Welcome

First off, welcome to the forum.

From the sound of what you're throwing, sounds like it's slushy to begin with. If it is, about the only thing that might improve what you're seeing is a Clarence impeller kit or equivelent. Snowblowers don't do well with wet sluchy material in most situations.

Carbs on Ariens seem touchy to me on getting to work right plus when it's cutting out, is the governor working or not? Could be sticking.

Just some thoughts.
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post #3 of 30 Old 01-13-2013, 04:17 PM
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If it works for 5 minutes then dies out I am thinking either the gas cap vent is plugged or the valves are heating up and then not fully closing. You can try loosening the gas cap a bit, but I suspect a valve adjustment might help you out and fix your problem.
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post #4 of 30 Old 01-13-2013, 05:42 PM
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another thought to keep in mind if its not getting a quality spark. enough to run ok but not enough to get full power have you changed out the points?
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post #5 of 30 Old 01-13-2013, 06:28 PM
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hello tony, welcome to SBF

current machines
1-toro2450E-38419. 1-toro3000E-38435. 1-toro 3650E-38445
2-toro 521E-38052. 1-toro xl824pt 38086
1-.............,TORO XL 624ps..............
1-............, TORO XL 824ps..............
william
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post #6 of 30 Old 01-13-2013, 08:44 PM
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another thought. I dont know if it would apply to 4 stroke but just had an old 3 or so hp homelite chainsaw that would die down once I started cutting. after a good deal of hair pulling the muffler was changed out for a good one and had zero problems after that. I had done carb, ignition, everything. muffler wasnt blocked, it was empty, rotted all internals out. saw had no back pressure.
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post #7 of 30 Old 01-13-2013, 11:35 PM Thread Starter
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HCBPH- thanks. i guess the snow was a bit slushy. it wasnt fresh- i was just out testing it, it hasnt snowed here in mass lately. so i guess i am more concerned with the stalling under high loads. i am not sure if the govener is working becuase im not sure exactly how its supposed to work. it does move. when i was adjusting the main jet, and i turned it very lean the govener would go back and forth until i richened it up. i have had the carb off many times. is it possible that one of the connecting rods got bent? one is supposed to have a bend so i cant tell if its right or not....

Shryp- thanks- i will try loosening the gas cap. hopefully i wont need a valve adjustment..

td5771- good thought- when you say changed the points, what do you mean? something besides the spark plug? i havent changed either.

detdrbuzzard- thanks

td5771- to your second thought about the muffler---- it made me remember that when the previous owner gave me it he said all it needed was a muffler (im not sure why he thought that, mind you it needed a belt and a carb clean). but i just pulled the old one off- it was rusty outside, but the metal on the inside was there- is there supposed to be any packing? because there wasnt any. i have seen a few small flames come out of it too now that i think of it. i know back pressure is important for the 2 smokes but i didnt think it mattered as much on a 4.


so i found a new muffler on ebay for 20 bucks... may try it. and also found carbs on there too. mine is leaking out of the bottom from the bowl bolt. it just needs a new gasket- anybody know where i can buy a few of those by themselves? i found an oregon replacement for under 30 bucks- Carburetor for Tecumseh 640349 640052 640054 | eBay but the tecumseh one is 90- Genuine Tecumseh Carburetor 631660A Fits Some H80 HM80 1550XX Spec Engines | eBay

thanks again all!
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post #8 of 30 Old 01-13-2013, 11:36 PM Thread Starter
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also, what rev is this thing supposed to be run on? i have been using high....
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post #9 of 30 Old 01-13-2013, 11:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tonyvisone View Post
also, what rev is this thing supposed to be run on? i have been using high....
Tony,
yes, you want to have it on "high" when in use..
full RPM's gives the best performance..

As I said via email, I think the poor throwing performance is simply due to "poor snow"! 2-stage machines dont do much of anything with less than an inch of snow, and they do even worse with slush..you really need 3" to 6" (or more) to get any real throwing distance..the machine needs a certain "volume" of snow to work with..So that is probably all that is going on there..there probably isnt anything actually wrong with the throwing distance..

as for the stalling out..I had a recent similar problem with my '71 Ariens..it wanted to stall out when asked to do any "real" work..digging into snow..

a good carb cleaning, and replacing the needle and O-rings from a carb rebuild kit solved the problem! running fine now..

although you say you have already cleaned the carb on yours..
so maybe yours has a different issue..
how fresh is the gas you are using?

Scot


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post #10 of 30 Old 01-14-2013, 12:04 AM Thread Starter
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thanks scot,

yes when i did the rebuild kit i used all the parts- needle seat etc, and i even used the new welch plugs, after cleaning under the old ones. its extremely clean in there, all passages are clear.

the gas i am using is not very old. maybe one month max. i put stabilizer in it the day i bought it. i have been running it in my small 4 stroke dirtbike without any issues either. i took it out today as a matter of fact.
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