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post #1 of 17 Old 10-01-2018, 10:21 PM Thread Starter
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Getting closer

Last March I purchased a new 28" Ariens Pro which was delivered to my driveway. I took the wrapping off, connect the two rod ends......the only assembly required and pushed it into my garage. No......made no attempt to start it but that time is getting closer.
There are two other things that I am contemplating to purchase before a snow storm. First item....chains! My driveway is sloped and the other is a cab to keep the snow off me when operating it. Open to comments on both the chains and the cab.....do cabs come in different models?

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post #2 of 17 Old 10-01-2018, 10:55 PM
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Last March I purchased a new 28" Ariens Pro which was delivered to my driveway. I took the wrapping off, connect the two rod ends......the only assembly required and pushed it into my garage. No......made no attempt to start it but that time is getting closer.
There are two other things that I am contemplating to purchase before a snow storm. First item....chains! My driveway is sloped and the other is a cab to keep the snow off me when operating it. Open to comments on both the chains and the cab.....do cabs come in different models?

Thanks-
I dont think you will need chains
you will need a 20lb weight kit with the cab
Check make sure the bucket is square then adjust scrapper
Poly shoes maybe
Check max rpms to make sure they are right i think they set them low to avoid engine issues
impeller kit
let it eat
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post #3 of 17 Old 10-02-2018, 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by foggysail View Post
Last March I purchased a new 28" Ariens Pro which was delivered to my driveway. I took the wrapping off, connect the two rod ends......the only assembly required and pushed it into my garage. No......made no attempt to start it but that time is getting closer.
There are two other things that I am contemplating to purchase before a snow storm. First item....chains! My driveway is sloped and the other is a cab to keep the snow off me when operating it. Open to comments on both the chains and the cab.....do cabs come in different models?

Thanks-
did you check oil? not sure , but i think they are shipped dry. correct if wrong.

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post #4 of 17 Old 10-02-2018, 10:42 AM
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did you check oil? not sure , but i think they are shipped dry. correct if wrong.
Oil should definitely be checked (IMO before every use). But FWIW, the oil in my Pro 28 was right at the full mark when I un-crated it and put it together.
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post #5 of 17 Old 10-02-2018, 11:28 AM
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I was checking mine everytime the 1st year but it never changed now its every 3rd use

it annoys me when engines burn oil
Same bs car dealer say burning a quart every 1000 miles is not and issue not a warranty issue

good engines shoudnt burn oil
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post #6 of 17 Old 10-02-2018, 11:47 AM
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Engines shouldn't burn a lot of oil and shouldn't just start to burn oil, but some engines are tighter with oil than others by design. Higher performance stuff tends to burn a little more oil when perfectly healthy due to certain tolerances having to be a little looser to tolerate being run hard while being pushed to the limit power wise. In cars, I'd call a quart every 1000 excessive. But for some engine designs, a quart every 2500 is perfectly normal when run hard and every single one of those engines will burn that from day 1. Others never seem to use a drop no matter what you do.

Personally, I check not because I expect the oil level to change, but so that I notice and can find the problem (leak or otherwise) ASAP if it does change, hopefully before the issue causes any damage.
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post #7 of 17 Old 10-02-2018, 12:17 PM
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my hi perf engines didnt burn oil even running nitrous on them

properly built and good ring seating they should not burn very lil to none
1/4 quart of less in 3 to 5k
some do burn from day 1 the poorly built motors
thats why they have the 1 quart per 1000 miles bs from the dealers

if some motors burn zero in 2500 miles then a quart in 2500 is trouble as well
ill take the zero burn engine ty
iam very happy my lct 414cc was full when i changed it
my hm80 gets checked every use that turns 3725 rpm and can go to 3800 for eod if needed
i keep that a ch over full mark as it uses a lil oil but its very old
using a quart in a car after 100k miles isnt a big deal
it is if the if the rings are seated and the car only has low miles imo
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post #8 of 17 Old 10-02-2018, 12:23 PM
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If your high perf stuff was mostly American V8s, that's probably why. Most of those don't tend to burn oil if built and broken in properly and not left loose and sloppy during the build. On the other hand, high revving European engines tend to consume some oil no matter what. Just a matter of differences in design, etc.
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post #9 of 17 Old 10-02-2018, 12:39 PM
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I was checking mine everytime the 1st year but it never changed now its every 3rd use

it annoys me when engines burn oil
Same bs car dealer say burning a quart every 1000 miles is not and issue not a warranty issue

good engines shoudnt burn oil
Was at the Honda dealer the other day. None of them have oil in when when uncrated. Also I read an article that was linked here on The SBF that oil use is related on how the motor is broken in. ring seating.

Now the Honda factory , I think , states that the oil should be changed after 10 hours when new? or was it 5 hours? if done too soon would that disturb the rings seating properly? like anything else , you get conflicting information on the computer. There should be a separate thread here discussing oil.

sorry, did not mean to change the subject. the dealer told me a couple stories about people trying to save $200 buying direct and NOT checking the oil before using.

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post #10 of 17 Old 10-02-2018, 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by orangputeh View Post
Was at the Honda dealer the other day. None of them have oil in when when uncrated. Also I read an article that was linked here on The SBF that oil use is related on how the motor is broken in. ring seating.

Now the Honda factory , I think , states that the oil should be changed after 10 hours when new? or was it 5 hours? if done too soon would that disturb the rings seating properly? like anything else , you get conflicting information on the computer. There should be a separate thread here discussing oil.

sorry, did not mean to change the subject. the dealer told me a couple stories about people trying to save $200 buying direct and NOT checking the oil before using.



for myself i woudnt wait even 5 hours i thought it was 5 hours
Engine builders break in and engine on the dyno and change it before making a full wot run to whats in the oil
I would run it 45 min myself then change it and see what it looks like and look for metal if it looked clean i would then run it for another 4 or so hours then put in full synthetic and be done
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