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post #1 of 50 Old 10-20-2018, 10:13 AM Thread Starter
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New Project 10M5

I am starting on a new project 10M5 Ariens This is my 3rd Ariens snowblower and I really do not know what I will end up doing with it. Was free so could not turn it away. I am thinking it dates to 1967 but not completely certain. It came with the Ariens brush sweeper which as an attachment is HUGE!

It has been missing head bolts for >20 years and in storage. Maybe the head bolts out of an older 5hp might work. I am pretty sure it will also need a new ignition setup and a full carb rebuild.
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post #2 of 50 Old 10-20-2018, 03:40 PM Thread Starter
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Right off the bat I broke the governor lever where the pin goes into the pivot hole in the head. Never seen one like this before. I am also surprised to see there is no drop intake tube for the carb and it is more or less bolted straight onto the engine intake.
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post #3 of 50 Old 10-20-2018, 04:32 PM
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the chassis look to be in great shape ! possibly be cheaper to repower ?

24 " 1967? Ariens Sno thro
28 " Ariens Sno Tek
Toro CCR ss
1966 Gravely LI Walk behind with dog eater

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post #4 of 50 Old 10-20-2018, 05:55 PM Thread Starter
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I am in no hurry on this and I enjoy trying to get old stuff to run again so I will give it a try. I know it needs a carb clean/soak, muffler, and a complete new ignition setup. I've done only the standard style ignition/points before. I've seen aftermarket electronic type ignitions and am not sure if that is worth looking into. Thoughts on that?
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post #5 of 50 Old 10-20-2018, 06:32 PM
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Black Engine Block tells me it was Replaced at some point, but the 212 Clones are really hard to beat, and an easy swap on that style. The chute crank can squeeze around the clone without modification, whereas the later 10000 series needs crank mods. I would also upgrade the axle to the differential type. Impeller Seal and Chute Upgrade can make these really Perform! Whatever you decide, have fun with the project. Here's a Quick Vid of My Modded '65
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post #6 of 50 Old 10-21-2018, 06:23 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Jackmels View Post
Black Engine Block tells me it was Replaced at some point, but the 212 Clones are really hard to beat, and an easy swap on that style. The chute crank can squeeze around the clone without modification, whereas the later 10000 series needs crank mods. I would also upgrade the axle to the differential type. Impeller Seal and Chute Upgrade can make these really Perform! Whatever you decide, have fun with the project. Here's a Quick Vid of My Modded '65
I thought the same thing when I noticed the black engine block. Is this the original style engine though? I've never seen this style of governor, carb mounting, or muffler? Looks like the governor lever is still available. What is a 212 clone? My other Ariens are a 1975 8hp 32" and a 1978 5hp 24". To change the differential I am thinking I would need to also replace the axle assembly - or is that not the case?

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post #7 of 50 Old 10-21-2018, 07:51 AM
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Clones are the "Chonda" engines. Harbor Freight sells them, round $100 w/coupon. A Good Option for a Cheap, Reliable, Very easy to Start Engine with Plenty of Power. The differential type axle is 3 parts. Long Axle, Differential, and Flange Hub, easy swap. Here is a photo of the axle setup(924 series, but similar)

https://www.harborfreight.com/65-hp-...epa-69730.html
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post #8 of 50 Old 10-21-2018, 09:51 AM
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I hadn't seen the sweeper attachment before. That's pretty cool and especially being as old as it is in what appears to be great shape. I wouldn't have passed that one up either, especially for free.
The Harbor Freight Predator would be a good choice for a re-power.

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Make sure the windows are up before the snow plow goes by !!

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post #9 of 50 Old 10-21-2018, 12:32 PM
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Good luck getting the carb off, looks exactly like the setup on my 910962 and 910965.

The carb flange is what the carb is attached to, flange to the block, and the mounting holes on the flange for the carb should be non-threaded (original flange Tec #30195A I believe). The flange will have 4 holes...two for the carb mounting, 2 to mount the assembly to the block - all non-threaded.

It has two screws that mount the flange to the block that if my memory is good the right screw is ridiculously hard to get to (Phillips head) if the carb is still mounted. Then the screws that have nuts on the outside of the carb to fasten the carb to the flange. The carb mounting is "inside out". The carb bolts are held in place by tapered lock washers that if rusty or flattened out, they all together (screws, lock washers, carb nuts) spin when trying to remove the carb - necessitating removing the flange with the carb in place.

They are a pain in the butt to get off together. If the carb screw assemblies don't spin, removing the carb is pretty easy. Given the ordeal, I "future-proofed" mine on the '965.

I replaced the non-threaded original carb flange with a 34712 that had threaded holes for carb studs. I wound up using new screws to fasten the new flange to the block first, then 1/4-20 lag bolts from the outside to fasten the carb to the block.

If you search for 34712 here, you should be able to find my thread on the ordeal. Here's a link to what I replaced the original with.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tecumseh-OE...5.c10#viTabs_0
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post #10 of 50 Old 10-21-2018, 01:18 PM Thread Starter
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I have not touched the carb yet. Ignition first since the reported issue was no spark. I have the flywheel off and the condenser and points look like all other ones from any and newer series engines so I think I will pick up a new set tomorrow from Menards on the way home.
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