Starter motor gets loose - HMSK80 - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 31 Old 01-09-2019, 08:09 PM Thread Starter
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Starter motor gets loose - HMSK80

I can't figure out how to keep the starter motor bolts from loosening on my 90s vintage Ariens 824. The threads in the block, admittedly, are not in perfect shape, although I did clean them up with a tap.

I've tried two types of Loctite, lock washers, and both Loctite and lock washers together. My next step, out of desperation, is to JB Weld the bolts in there, but I thought I'd see if anyone had any ideas before going to that extreme.

Thanks!
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post #2 of 31 Old 01-09-2019, 08:20 PM
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Monster glue? A drop of Super Glue? Toothed washers

1986 Ariens ST522, 5hp, 22"
1995 Murray Craftsman 10hp, 29" w. 12" impeller
A 1983 Real John Deere 10hp, 32" w. 12" impeller, 16" auger, 20" high front, cast iron gear box, chains
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Gravely Convertible, 12hp Kohler cast iron, 26" width, 600 lbs of cast iron & steel, 2 speed impeller, 4 ground speeds
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post #3 of 31 Old 01-09-2019, 09:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flymo View Post
I can't figure out how to keep the starter motor bolts from loosening on my 90s vintage Ariens 824. The threads in the block, admittedly, are not in perfect shape, although I did clean them up with a tap.

I've tried two types of Loctite, lock washers, and both Loctite and lock washers together. My next step, out of desperation, is to JB Weld the bolts in there, but I thought I'd see if anyone had any ideas before going to that extreme.

Thanks!

Helicoil. Problem solved, and a much better/stronger way to thread in.



The bolts were probably a little loose and beat the snot out of the threads, causing this problem.
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post #4 of 31 Old 01-10-2019, 06:01 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks - at this point it will probably be spring before I tackle it. Fortunately the unit starts easily, usually on the first pull. I'm thinking either helicoil, or if there is room I may glue a stud in there and then use a nylock nut.
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post #5 of 31 Old 01-10-2019, 06:22 PM
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for my 30+yr old 10hp blower it was easier to just do the one pull on the rope to get it started than find my extension cord, unwind said cord, plug it into outlet and then plug it into machine.
then rewind what i just did to put the cord away.
odd that my lawn mower is harder to pull start it

Bought a dead but now fixed 1980ish craftsman II 10/28....ITS ONE HEAVY BEAST

MY VIDS ON FIXIN HER UP

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post #6 of 31 Old 01-10-2019, 06:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flymo View Post
I'm thinking either helicoil, or if there is room I may glue a stud in there and then use a nylock nut.
Helicoil is probably the most robust solution, but its riskier. If drilling goes wrong, if it blows through the side of a boss, etc, you might create a different/bigger problem.

Red Loctite or JB Weld, and putting in a stud is an interesting idea. I don't know what's near it, but red Loctite requires a torch, if it ever had to be removed.

If you went that route, maybe put in the adhesive/Loctite, thread in the stud, then snug a nut against the engine. The nut will keep the stud pulled away from the engine, and tight against the threads, as the adhesive dries. That way the stud will already be "in position", the way the stud will be pulled during use, once the starter is reinstalled. Rather than sitting one way in the loose threads, hardening, then be pulled differently once you mount the starter.

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post #7 of 31 Old 01-10-2019, 07:54 PM
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By using a stud you may not be able to slide the starter out, you may be able to flip it outward.

1986 Ariens ST522, 5hp, 22"
1995 Murray Craftsman 10hp, 29" w. 12" impeller
A 1983 Real John Deere 10hp, 32" w. 12" impeller, 16" auger, 20" high front, cast iron gear box, chains
Noma 9hp, 27" w. 12" impeller
Noma 5hp, 24" w. 12" impeller, 20" high front
Gravely Convertible, 12hp Kohler cast iron, 26" width, 600 lbs of cast iron & steel, 2 speed impeller, 4 ground speeds
Dynamark 8hp, 26", 12" impeller, for sale
Several other 5hp, 8hp, several 2 cycle, all for sale
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post #8 of 31 Old 01-11-2019, 12:25 AM
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I was thinking clearance with the tank above the starter but using studs you might have to pull the recoil/shroud to get the starter in and out if as mentioned above you can't angle it in there. Not that it would be that often you'd be replacing it.

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post #9 of 31 Old 01-11-2019, 12:50 AM
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Blue removable Loctite should work. I would suggest getting a new tube. I have had Loctite go bad on the shelf. It never fully dries. Make sure the threads on the bolt and hole are clean. Spray some break cleaner or alcohol in there to clean out any oil and blow it out with compressed air to dry it. You can even use a hair drier to help speed the curing as it is pretty cold out now.


But, if the threads in the alum block are really worn you best go with a Helicoil or similar. If you are only catching 10% of the thread or something ridiculous like that it is a problem.

You want it removable unless you go with the stud concept. Other have well explained the down side of that approach. But it will work.
Good Luck.

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post #10 of 31 Old 01-11-2019, 06:50 AM
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Or carefully see if you could use slightly longer bolts if there are any unused threads in each bolt hole. Make sure they don't bottom out before the starter is tight. An extra washer or two could fill up the gap, if this is the case.

Wake me up when the snow's done...
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