Ariens 1970-74? No Spark - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
 
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post #1 of 8 Old 02-03-2014, 12:41 PM Thread Starter
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Ariens 1970-74? No Spark

I was given an Ariens Snowblower years ago and was told it ran. Well, it ran pretty poor if to say it ran at all. After rebuilding the carb and fiddling with it, I was able to get it running for a couple of hours (clearing a foot of show from out driveway). At the end, it stalled out and wouldn't start again... (no spark it seemed...)

Two years later, here I am trying to get it running again, but still no spark..
I replace the Coil, the Points, Plug and Condenser. Gapped the points at .020 (I think that is what it said), but no dice.

I noticed that the Magento Distributor has some play as you tighten it (factory obviously), will this be used for timing? Is there timing?

I read somewhere that a safety switch could keep it from getting spark?! (It would blow me away if that is what this is!!!)

Any other suggestions?!
(With all the snow coming and now on 20 acres, I NEED to get this resolved!!!)


Thanks
Brent
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post #2 of 8 Old 02-03-2014, 12:50 PM Thread Starter
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...Also, replaced the flywheel key too, so I know the coil and magnet are in sync
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post #3 of 8 Old 02-03-2014, 01:34 PM
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Hi Bgthomas...
There is no "safety wire" that I am aware of, unless your engine is equipped with a low oil safety switch. In that case, were the switch to short, it would disable your ignition. There is, however, a "kill" wire that is attached to the coil. You probably noticed this when you changed it out. It runs behind the flywheel and to a terminal on the throttle bracket. When you move the cable control to the "stop" position, it causes contact to be made with the terminal holding the kill wire, thereby grounding your ignition. If your throttle is in the stop position, you will not have spark. If that wire were to fray and rub up against the engine block, you can not get spark. If you disconnect the kill wire, you will eliminate it as a cause of spark loss.
Timing on L head Tecumseh engines is set by proper adjustment of the points. There is a procedure that involves a dial indicator tool, but it is not necessary to get a good engine running. If you found the high point of your flywheel shaft cam and set your breaker points to .020 setting, you should be timed. You said you replaced your flywheel key, your condenser and your coil. You should be good. Not sure what you mean by "magneto distributor." If you are referring to the stator assembly that is held to the backplate by 2 machine screws, it has to be tightly in place. If it has moved or is loose, your timing will be off. MH
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post #4 of 8 Old 02-03-2014, 03:15 PM
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I think the coil has to be gapped to the flywheel as well. They say about the distance of a business card. The problem with this is on old engine is the flywheel has to be on to gap it, but the flywheel has to be off to tighten it...

I believe an old trick is to cut a flywheel in half so you can gap it and still get to the bolts. You might need some help from a shop to fix this.

Have you considered looking for a different engine? That might be easier. You can get a Predator from Harbor Freight for $100. That should get you through the winter if you are in a hurry to fix this and then you can worry about it in the summer.

Please direct all snow blower questions to the forums and not to me with PMs.
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post #5 of 8 Old 02-03-2014, 04:55 PM Thread Starter
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MotorHead64 - Yes, I saw the grounding wire and figured it was just a grounding wire. I WONDER if the throttle is in a position that is not allowing the coil to be grounded and not allowing the spark?! I'm going to check ASAP when I get home...

Stator Assembly, I guess. I thought that would be the distributor (ie. magneto). but yes, it bolts to the motor and holds the Coil, Points, etc... I removed it to put the new Coil, Points, Condenser on and noticed after words the play. If it has some upward play, maybe I can close the gap to the Flywheel Magnets for a better spark?


Shryp - Since the coil mounts on the assembly, I can't really move the coil closer, but maybe move the assembly (as mentioned in my prior post). IDK, but can see. It will be tough since the flywheel is more of a drum and you can't get into it when assembled.

New engine, no not really. It was running and assume was/is something stupid like the wire or a gap being set. So there is no need to buy a new engine!!

Thanks
Brent
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post #6 of 8 Old 02-03-2014, 05:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shryp View Post
I think the coil has to be gapped to the flywheel as well. They say about the distance of a business card.
Business card is perfect for setting the coil to flywheel gap. I just did this on an old Simplicity 755. I have spark and it runs - but runs rough.

The coil should have a "tab" to attach the ground wire / shut-off wire. Try removing that cable and see if it runs. That way it would definitely point to a grounding issue. Also make sure you file the tabs where the coil mounts to ensure good contact with the engine frame.

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post #7 of 8 Old 02-03-2014, 08:44 PM
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Brent, I'm a little confused as to which ignition system you have. There are 2 different "points" systems used on Tecumseh engines. One has all parts located beneath the flywheel and one has the points and condenser under the flywheel and the coil lamination on the outside of the flywheel. With type 1, you don't have to worry about an "air gap" adjustment. With type 2, you do. Which do you have? From what I'm hearing, it sounds like the type 1 system.
As for the grounding wire, it can be removed and the engine will run. You would remove it to eliminate it as a cause of your problem. MH
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post #8 of 8 Old 02-10-2014, 10:56 AM Thread Starter
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Just a quick update, I fiddled more with the Snow Blower the other day between playing with the "stop/slow/fast switch", using a "good" ground and cleaning out the carb, it fired up and after some playing with the idle, mixture and float screws I was able to get it "running". (rough and inconsistent, but running)

Because I had all the sheet metal off, I had to put some screw drivers into the "primer" part of the carb and some times gun it to keep it going. I tried to let it warm up for 15-20 minutes and then try and then guess on the carb settings.

Unfortunately, it kept stalling out. Sometimes when put into gear, sometimes when it started to try and throw snow, sometimes for no reason. I'm going to reassume that he carb is out of tune?

Where can I get a walk through for tuning?

The lever that has stop, slow and fast doesn't raise or lower in speed and while it's connected to the carb, only the manual pressing on a bracket attached to a spring to the carb guns the engine. Does anyone have a picture of there setup, so I can see if I'm missing something?

Thanks
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