Need Advice For Replacing Engine - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 12 Old 02-13-2019, 04:45 PM Thread Starter
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Need Advice For Replacing Engine

About two years ago, I acquired a 1971 Ariens snowblower, model 10962. Long story short, somewhere I developed an oil leak very recently that I didn't notice and seized the engine this morning warming it up (literally no signs of oil dripping on the ground). It wasn't a big deal since it was free and I only have about $60 into it getting the carb clean and new parts like a spark plug and fuel hose. I'm more bummed that I didn't check the oil like I had been before starting it, that was my fault.



I've read and watched vids of people updating old machines with the Harbor Freight Predator engines, which isn't a bad thing, but I can get an awesome deal on a brand new 8hp Briggs 15C107-0040 with a two year warranty. It's a snowblower motor that has the electric start and the alternator for running lights, I can get it right now for under $200.


First I'm curious if anyone knows anything about these particular motors and if they're decent and secondly, what would it take to swap out the old Tecumseh motor? I'm sure there's some details needed, but if anyone has any kind of insight and tips for doing a swap, I'll take anything I can get. I'm more of a car mechanic than small engine mechanic, so this is sorta new territory for me.


I figure while I'm doing this swap, it'll be a nice idea to pull open the machine's bottom and check belts and lube everything properly.
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post #2 of 12 Old 02-13-2019, 07:11 PM
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You have the ST724. The Briggs is a very good engine, IMHO. The 8 would be a nice upgrade from the original 7. As for fit, I don't know but I'm sure someone here does.


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post #3 of 12 Old 02-13-2019, 07:20 PM
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the $99 dollar predator is an easy swap...I cut off the mounting studs, grind flush, center punch the stud, drill and tap to 5/6 coarse and bolt the engine on.....some people drive out the studs and use longer bolts, but I find that harder and the studs sometimes don't drive out easily. You will use the same pulley, and belt guard, the only thing may be repositioning the chute crank...good luck
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post #4 of 12 Old 02-13-2019, 07:36 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cranman View Post
the $99 dollar predator is an easy swap...I cut off the mounting studs, grind flush, center punch the stud, drill and tap to 5/6 coarse and bolt the engine on.....some people drive out the studs and use longer bolts, but I find that harder and the studs sometimes don't drive out easily. You will use the same pulley, and belt guard, the only thing may be repositioning the chute crank...good luck

I certainly won't begrudge anyone wanting to use the Predator engines, they look nice and I've seen good things about them, but our local small engine's dealer doesn't supply parts for them. While I can usually get parts online cheaper, if there's some emergency, it's nice to have a local shop just in case


Also, none of the equivalent Predator engines have the electric start, yes I'm spoiled, but it sure makes winter starts so much easier. Just sucks 'cause the previous owner put a brand new starter on the machine. Oh well.
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post #5 of 12 Old 02-13-2019, 08:19 PM
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Everything I've read about the Predator is it's a one pull engine. And selling a typical H70 electric starter should garner you $30 at the absolute minimum (probably more if nearly brand new) to put down on a Predator.

There are posters here who claim they can convert a 10,000 series in less than an hour. Given the price, availability, easy of conversion, solid if not great running history and ease of starting - if my H70 blows up on me, I know which engine I'm putting on my 910962.

I honestly cannot remember reading a single threat of a poster here having Predator issues - that the engine itself was bad or breaking down.

1974 Ariens 922008/922003 "Frankenstein", my dad's 1st new snowblower
1971 Ariens 922002/922003 "The Badger", recent addition, ready for snow
1971 Ariens 922002/922003 "Juneau", finally ready for snow
1971 Ariens 910962/910995 "Bill", SOLD 3/7/2019
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post #6 of 12 Old 04-08-2019, 01:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cranman View Post
the $99 dollar predator is an easy swap...I cut off the mounting studs, grind flush, center punch the stud, drill and tap to 5/6 coarse and bolt the engine on.....some people drive out the studs and use longer bolts, but I find that harder and the studs sometimes don't drive out easily. You will use the same pulley, and belt guard, the only thing may be repositioning the chute crank...good luck
Please tell me the proper name of bolts to buy to bolt down. I've tapped to 5/16 coarse. Now use coarse Hex bolt #8?, washers, lock washers? length too. Also, one that won't rust. It's a Ariens 10965 1969. Thanks
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post #7 of 12 Old 04-08-2019, 01:33 PM Thread Starter
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Ariensboy, I would just use regular galvanized bolts, you don't need anything fancy. You could use stainless steel, but that drives up the cost. Rust isn't a big issue since it's not like a car, it won't get all corroded like car bolts do. It's not like you'll be removing the engine every time you use it anyway. Just get some bolts that get you above the base of the engine, factor in a bit extra for washers too. You don't have to use lock washers, but if you're not sure, you wouldn't be wrong to use them, just make sure you have an extra washer under them.
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post #8 of 12 Old 04-08-2019, 03:53 PM
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Regular grade 5 bolts long enough to reach from the top of engine to a little below the mounting plate. I put a flat washer with lock washer on top. You will love the new motor.....
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post #9 of 12 Old 04-08-2019, 06:57 PM
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I read on You tube watching a repower video that a guy who commented with a Simplicity 870 like mine he was able to put a 301cc Predator on with no alignment changes or cover or crank changes were needed...just the pulley and belts needed altering.....does anyone know if that is true?????
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post #10 of 12 Old 04-08-2019, 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Cujoe_da_man View Post
Ariensboy, I would just use regular galvanized bolts, you don't need anything fancy. You could use stainless steel, but that drives up the cost. Rust isn't a big issue since it's not like a car, it won't get all corroded like car bolts do. It's not like you'll be removing the engine every time you use it anyway. Just get some bolts that get you above the base of the engine, factor in a bit extra for washers too. You don't have to use lock washers, but if you're not sure, you wouldn't be wrong to use them, just make sure you have an extra washer under them.
Thanks Cujoe_da_man
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