Giving my machine new life! - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 42 Old 02-19-2019, 10:30 PM Thread Starter
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Giving my machine new life! *Update 5/5/19

Sorta started a post here if curious: https://www.snowblowerforum.com/foru...ml#post1650873


SO! An update, I purchased the engine and it just arrived today. Went out in the 20-some degree weather and decided to check it out. It's a Briggs 1500 Snow series engine, a nice 8hp that'll give me more than enough power. Got a great deal on it for under $200.



And here's what it's going on, my free Ariens 10962 Sno-Thro. It was running fine up until last Thursday when it developed a sudden oil leak and seized the engine.



The unit split in half. Excuse the blurry images, my phone didn't want to focus for some reason...


The engine mounted to the tractor, however it cannot be bolted down because the engine base is too thick. It was at this point, after pulling the old engine off, that I discovered where the leak was. It looks like it may have blown a head gasket as the oil had made its way UNDER the base of the engine, I'm guessing the air from the flywheel pushed it under, which explains why I didn't see almost any oil at all.



Anyone have any ideas how to extend the studs without cutting them out? I'd hate to waste them since they're already there. I'm wondering if I could enlarge the holes on the base and then get some of those bolt extensions, the kind they use on threaded rod and get some threaded rod to bring them up just an extra inch or so.




This is only the beginning. I have plans to clean it all up, get a new belt, grease everything, etc. I need to pull the impeller out of the bucket because one of the fan blades was bent from the previous owner. Everything I did here only took me about an hour and a half, mainly because it was frickin' cold out and this is my first time doing something like this, so I'm learning.

Last edited by Cujoe_da_man; 05-05-2019 at 08:23 PM. Reason: New stuff!
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post #2 of 42 Old 02-19-2019, 10:45 PM
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Always interesting working on a blower but we on here are picture freaks - more More MORE - please

Less than $200 is a great deal. I may purchase one for an upgrade machine.

1986 Ariens ST522, 5hp, 22"
1995 Murray Craftsman 10hp, 29" w. 12" impeller
A 1983 Real John Deere 10hp, 32" w. 12" impeller, 16" auger, 20" high front, cast iron gear box, chains
Noma 9hp, 27" w. 12" impeller
Noma 5hp, 24" w. 12" impeller, 20" high front
Gravely Convertible, 12hp Kohler cast iron, 26" width, 600 lbs of cast iron & steel, 2 speed impeller, 4 ground speeds
Dynamark 8hp, 26", 12" impeller, for sale
Several other 5hp, 8hp, several 2 cycle, all for sale
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post #3 of 42 Old 02-19-2019, 11:04 PM Thread Starter
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I like pics too, so I'm taking pics as I go!


I picked it up from eBay of all places, seller had something like 20k ratings and almost 100% feedback. Dunno if we can drop links here, but I can message it to you.
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post #4 of 42 Old 02-19-2019, 11:07 PM
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Cut them off...center punch the studs, drill and tap them to 5/16 coarse, and bolt it down.
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post #5 of 42 Old 02-19-2019, 11:25 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cranman View Post
Cut them off...center punch the studs, drill and tap them to 5/16 coarse, and bolt it down.

I will give that a try, I didn't know how hard the studs were, sometimes they like to make them out of hardened steal and you can't easily drill through.
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post #6 of 42 Old 02-19-2019, 11:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cujoe_da_man View Post
The engine mounted to the tractor, however it cannot be bolted down because the engine base is too thick.
Anyone have any ideas how to extend the studs without cutting them out? I'd hate to waste them since they're already there. I'm wondering if I could enlarge the holes on the base and then get some of those bolt extensions, the kind they use on threaded rod and get some threaded rod to bring them up just an extra inch or so.
-->Look if the studs are going through the body…If they do and are installed from underneath, using a hammer punch them out and reinstall longer ones in their place (or you could also use longer bolts) with nylon-type lockwashers to prevent them from getting loose because of the vibration and you should be fine. Personally, I wouldn't like to enlarge the holes in a brand new engine…

Good luck,

Claude.

2004 MURRAY BRUTE 10HP 29"

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post #7 of 42 Old 02-20-2019, 11:22 AM
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Very cool! Thanks for posting the pics as well. $200 is a great deal for that motor. It should serve you well.
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post #8 of 42 Old 02-20-2019, 01:31 PM
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The studs are soft....just make sure you drill in the center, and use the drill bit size recommended for tapping 5/16 coarse. the head of the stud is welded, and if you try and drive them out, you may distort the base of the tractor. The thickness of the stud heads give you a lot of meat to tap into, so between the sheet steel and the head of the stud, you have plenty of threads. If you mess up...just replace the drilled out studs with longer bolts....no easy as everything in the tranny gets in your way.
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post #9 of 42 Old 02-20-2019, 01:40 PM Thread Starter
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Well, I'm planning on opening up the tranny so I can clean and grease everything that needs to be, so maybe I'll work at dissembling things to make it easier since I'll be in there anyway. There's a chance I may have to replace the friction wheel and I've been watching vids on how to do it. The belt doesn't look like it's ever been replaced, so I'm wondering if the friction wheel needs to be serviced as well (though, you'd never know it because the thing will pull you off your feet in 4th gear if you're not paying attention :P). At the very least, I could drill the old studs out and tack some bolts in with a friend's MIG welder from inside, he's good at things like that.
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post #10 of 42 Old 02-20-2019, 02:20 PM
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I cut my studs off about 1/4” above the deck and welded extensions on. No pounding, no drilling, took all of 15 minutes.

24 " 1967? Ariens Sno thro
28 " Ariens Sno Tek
Toro CCR ss
1966 Gravely LI Walk behind with dog eater

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