How long should a friction wheel last? - Page 3 - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #21 of 30 Old 04-23-2019, 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by vmax29 View Post
Iíll probably get boiled in oil here by some mechanic for mentioning this, I did use a spray belt dressing on the disk before replacing it. Itís the stuff for automotive fan belts. It did get me through a couple back to back storms before the old disk gave up the ghost. So it does work in a pinch. And yes I like my new hydrostatic drive and Iím hoping it lasts.
You and me both. I received a free HS80 that had about a third of the disk missing. found the off piece in belly pan. did not want to spring the 50 bucks for a new disk so used Shoe goo to re-attach and put a layer on top of rest of disk.

used it all winter and it does not slip at all. actually works better than my other 80. unbelievable how that shoe goo works for so many things other than shoes.

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post #22 of 30 Old 04-23-2019, 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by ST1100A View Post
That's from the cheap Chinese rubber they use in manufacturing to save a buck. I never saw a disc last more than a year or two under normal usage on a newer snowblower. The old Honda's lasted a lot longer due to much better material used when they were manufactured, that was a reason for the higher price of the Honda.
Those "Sliption" discs are constantly slipping under normal use, like "spinning" your tires on your car going around a sharp curve, and when they are first engaged, it is like spinning your tires in the air and letting the wheel hit the ground after it is up to full speed. You usually saw a little bit of smoke coming off the tire when you did that from the friction and heat , like "smoking" your tires when you did a "Burn out".
Those friction discs are only designed to help provide "Assist" to help with the forward and rearward travel movement of the snowblower, they are not designed to "Bulldoze" or go up hills where they are put under a load. They have very light spring tension on them to give friction causing them to engage. If they had a stiff spring tension they would wear out extremely fast do to the extremely poor quality of rubber used in manufacturing, to save a buck for the manufacturer.
The friction disc's rubber tire is the most unreliable drive part ever made if you have to put the drive system under a load, that is why it is much better to use a hydrostatic drive system, although they are more expensive.
We have hydro units with thousands of hard hours on them without any trouble at all. If those machines were friction disc drives, we would have replaced them thousands of times by now to get that many hours out of them.
sorry to get off topic a little but I get asked this question all the time from people who are buying a used Honda. A lot of people think the friction disk system is cheaper to repair such as just replacing a disk compared to the hydro unit having a problem and needing repair or replacement.

what is your experience with hydro repairs? I have never heard of hydros having problems other than a leaking seal or a pushed out seal and then needing nothing more than bleeding system and refill with oil.?

Even a used hydro is around $300-400 and the labor is close to same so I can understand a person's concern. I tell people that some parts on the older HS50-55-70-80 are no longer available and that alone could be a reason not to buy one. On the other hand I have told them the hydros are very reliable from my ( limited ) experience.

Do you agree or can you tell me more info from your experience? ( disk vs. hydro )

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post #23 of 30 Old 04-23-2019, 07:38 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by orangputeh View Post
You and me both. I received a free HS80 that had about a third of the disk missing. found the off piece in belly pan. did not want to spring the 50 bucks for a new disk so used Shoe goo to re-attach and put a layer on top of rest of disk.

used it all winter and it does not slip at all. actually works better than my other 80. unbelievable how that shoe goo works for so many things other than shoes.

Oh my GOD.....Pa Kettle! You do remember Ma & Pa Kettle don't you? Yeah, I am that old. Stomping in the floor to make the Radio work?


So....in retrospect....I had a mirror pop out of my 1992 GMC Sierra's side mirror, and glued it back in with Shoe Goo(p).....and it held tight for 6 years! Great stuff!

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post #24 of 30 Old 04-23-2019, 09:10 PM
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Oh my GOD.....Pa Kettle! You do remember Ma & Pa Kettle don't you? Yeah, I am that old. Stomping in the floor to make the Radio work?


So....in retrospect....I had a mirror pop out of my 1992 GMC Sierra's side mirror, and glued it back in with Shoe Goo(p).....and it held tight for 6 years! Great stuff!
shoe goo

duck tape

baling wire

knife

flashlight


what else do you need?

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post #25 of 30 Old 04-24-2019, 01:41 AM
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Originally Posted by orangputeh View Post
sorry to get off topic a little but I get asked this question all the time from people who are buying a used Honda. A lot of people think the friction disk system is cheaper to repair such as just replacing a disk compared to the hydro unit having a problem and needing repair or replacement.

what is your experience with hydro repairs? I have never heard of hydros having problems other than a leaking seal or a pushed out seal and then needing nothing more than bleeding system and refill with oil.?

Even a used hydro is around $300-400 and the labor is close to same so I can understand a person's concern. I tell people that some parts on the older HS50-55-70-80 are no longer available and that alone could be a reason not to buy one. On the other hand I have told them the hydros are very reliable from my ( limited ) experience.

Do you agree or can you tell me more info from your experience? ( disk vs. hydro )
The Hydro's can be expensive to repair. I have seen seals go bad, but not too often. I have seen the little pistons and the cylinder blocks that they sit in wear out, but that is a rarity.
The older Honda transmissions were made by Honda, and were much better than the newer ones. A lot of the Hydro units are made by Hydrogear on newer units, and many Hydro tractors, and I have repaired too many of those to count on tractor equipped Hydro's, almost all of them HydroGear that are a very common part in many different manufacturers machines.
The Eaton and Vickers Hydro pumps and motors were built a lot better.
In over 28 years time, I have only seen one older Honda HS828 that had a bad Hydro Trans. It had worn pistons and cylinder blocks. And that machine was used commercially and extremely hard.
Honda used to be good for having old parts available years ago, but after Mr Soichiro Honda died, they decided it cost too much to keep all the old parts in stock and they scrapped a lot of their new old stock, not just with power equipment, but with motorcycle, ATV and scooter divisions.
Your Hydro's are very reliable and it is usually pretty rare that one goes bad.
I would take a Hydro over a disc drive any day. For the extra money spent on a Hydro, they are well worth it for the trouble free usage and longevity out of them.
You definitely get your monies worth out of them. You would end up spending more money replacing discs and repairing disc drive systems over a long period of time than what a Hydro would cost, and for the extended time you would get out of a Hydro. You figure people who use their snowblower commercially for over 25 years at a time might replace 25 discs or more, and the Hydro unit is still going strong without any problems at all. It is the longevity and trouble free time you get out of a Hydro that makes it worth the extra money, plus the ease of use with infinitely variable speeds that can easily come to a very slow craw speed and speed back up without de-clutching or stopping to shift, and just by moving the shift lever to reverse or forward without having to come to a complete stop and de-clutching.
Every time you do that with a disc drive, it is like when an airplane lands, the stopped tire suddenly has to skid against the drive plate, or pavement in an airplane's case, to start rotating suddenly, and it causes wear and flat spots on the tire, plus if you get the "tire" wet on the disc drive, they will slip excessively and wear prematurely. And they do get wet while operating under normal conditions. Not only that, but a Hydro has a much more solid, powerful drive when under a severe load like going up steep hills, steps, or when "Bulldozing" thru snow, which you are not supposed to do.

Last edited by ST1100A; 04-24-2019 at 02:01 AM.
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post #26 of 30 Old 04-24-2019, 06:14 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by orangputeh View Post
shoe goo

duck tape

baling wire

knife

flashlight


what else do you need?

Amen Orangputeh!

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post #27 of 30 Old 04-24-2019, 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by ST1100A View Post
The Hydro's can be expensive to repair. I have seen seals go bad, but not too often. I have seen the little pistons and the cylinder blocks that they sit in wear out, but that is a rarity.
The older Honda transmissions were made by Honda, and were much better than the newer ones. A lot of the Hydro units are made by Hydrogear on newer units, and many Hydro tractors, and I have repaired too many of those to count on tractor equipped Hydro's, almost all of them HydroGear that are a very common part in many different manufacturers machines.
The Eaton and Vickers Hydro pumps and motors were built a lot better.
In over 28 years time, I have only seen one older Honda HS828 that had a bad Hydro Trans. It had worn pistons and cylinder blocks. And that machine was used commercially and extremely hard.
Honda used to be good for having old parts available years ago, but after Mr Soichiro Honda died, they decided it cost too much to keep all the old parts in stock and they scrapped a lot of their new old stock, not just with power equipment, but with motorcycle, ATV and scooter divisions.
Your Hydro's are very reliable and it is usually pretty rare that one goes bad.
I would take a Hydro over a disc drive any day. For the extra money spent on a Hydro, they are well worth it for the trouble free usage and longevity out of them.
You definitely get your monies worth out of them. You would end up spending more money replacing discs and repairing disc drive systems over a long period of time than what a Hydro would cost, and for the extended time you would get out of a Hydro. You figure people who use their snowblower commercially for over 25 years at a time might replace 25 discs or more, and the Hydro unit is still going strong without any problems at all. It is the longevity and trouble free time you get out of a Hydro that makes it worth the extra money, plus the ease of use with infinitely variable speeds that can easily come to a very slow craw speed and speed back up without de-clutching or stopping to shift, and just by moving the shift lever to reverse or forward without having to come to a complete stop and de-clutching.
Every time you do that with a disc drive, it is like when an airplane lands, the stopped tire suddenly has to skid against the drive plate, or pavement in an airplane's case, to start rotating suddenly, and it causes wear and flat spots on the tire, plus if you get the "tire" wet on the disc drive, they will slip excessively and wear prematurely. And they do get wet while operating under normal conditions. Not only that, but a Hydro has a much more solid, powerful drive when under a severe load like going up steep hills, steps, or when "Bulldozing" thru snow, which you are not supposed to do.
Thank you for your time. Much appreciated.

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post #28 of 30 Old 04-24-2019, 06:39 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by vmax29 View Post
Iíll probably get boiled in oil here by some mechanic for mentioning this, I did use a spray belt dressing on the disk before replacing it. Itís the stuff for automotive fan belts. It did get me through a couple back to back storms before the old disk gave up the ghost. So it does work in a pinch. And yes I like my new hydrostatic drive and Iím hoping it lasts.

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post #29 of 30 Old 04-24-2019, 07:57 PM
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I have a 2001 1332 Pro my friction disk lasted 17 years before it needed to be changed. Making sure the disc is adjusted properly its explained clearly in the manual. I live in Maine we have lots of snow my drive way will park over 20 cars.
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post #30 of 30 Old 04-25-2019, 04:36 PM Thread Starter
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I have a 2001 1332 Pro my friction disk lasted 17 years before it needed to be changed. Making sure the disc is adjusted properly its explained clearly in the manual. I live in Maine we have lots of snow my drive way will park over 20 cars.

Hey thanks so much for your efforts in replying. Well I am going to have to pay special attention to the disk now that's its new again. My cable was not adjusted properly, and now that I have adjusted it according to the manual, hopefully it will last longer. The one big difference between my Ariens and my Murray was, that the Ariens friction PLATE has a rougher texture to it-probably gives it better traction but would also wear the rubber faster.My Murray Plate was super smooth and the rubber disk lasted 19 years. I checked my plate against other new Ariens, and they are all identical.

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