How long should a friction wheel last? - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 30 Old 04-18-2019, 06:29 AM Thread Starter
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How long should a friction wheel last?

Yesterday,I serviced my machine, a 921037 28+ Deluxe. I could not believe how badly my friction disk had worn, and it was worn quite a bit worse on the inside of the disk ( toward the right- inside of the wheel rim). I checked this same disk last year, and it was in above average condition. I removed it, and replaced it with a warranty supplied part. The dealer thought it might have been bad rubber. I do use high speed transfer speed to take it to the park occasionally,by my house.I would have posted a pic of the bad disk, but the dealer kept it for warranty purposes.Anyone else experience this?

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post #2 of 30 Old 04-18-2019, 07:58 AM
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No. I'm in New Jersey, middle of the East coast. It snows 1-7 times per year, 2"-7" with occasional 12"-25" snows. A friction disk will last 30+ years.

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post #3 of 30 Old 04-18-2019, 09:16 AM
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It is very possible that it is over tightened, too much pressure between wheel and disc and cause damage


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post #4 of 30 Old 04-18-2019, 10:04 AM
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do you shift on the fly? that is while the machine is moving?

that and too much pressure as mentioned by e.fisher26 may wear the disk prematurely

I have seen many 30 year old plus Hondas with the original friction disk. I tell people to only shift while stopped.

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post #5 of 30 Old 04-18-2019, 11:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cutter View Post
Yesterday,I serviced my machine, a 921037 28+ Deluxe. I could not believe how badly my friction disk had worn, and it was worn quite a bit worse on the inside of the disk ( toward the right- inside of the wheel rim). I checked this same disk last year, and it was in above average condition. I removed it, and replaced it with a warranty supplied part. The dealer thought it might have been bad rubber. I do use high speed transfer speed to take it to the park occasionally,by my house.I would have posted a pic of the bad disk, but the dealer kept it for warranty purposes.Anyone else experience this?
I have had the same problem.

I use my machine a lot during the season. The first friction disc lasted 3 years and the second lasted 2 years. There is an indicator of disc wear on the left side so I know when the disc is close to wearing out. I replaced the friction disc recently and found the rubber was worn unevenly (same side as yours wore most). The hex shaft was worn where it rides in the bearing, more on right side where the splined drive for the cog is located. But also on the other side, but not as much.

Bought a new hex shaft from the dealer and checked it against the old bearings and new bearings, no difference. So there is a light interference fit that will allow the shaft to spin in the bearing and wear. So I checked for side movement in the shaft when installed and there is just a little. So I used blue locktite on the shaft bearing surfaces and a thin washer on the left side of shaft to take out the side movement and load the bearings ever so slightly.

Attached are pics showing the wear indicator in released position, engaged position and then in near worn out position. My indicator was just about touching the right side of opening. With this Ariens system you cannot overload the wheel drive pressure. The pic of the friction disc shows it leaning to the left, reverse that when looking at it installed in the maintenance position. The most wear occurs on the right side (drive cog side). The hex shaft wear is shown on both bearing surfaces but is much more on the drive cog side.

You may want to check your hex shaft for wear too.
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post #6 of 30 Old 04-19-2019, 06:06 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Town View Post
I have had the same problem.

I use my machine a lot during the season. The first friction disc lasted 3 years and the second lasted 2 years. There is an indicator of disc wear on the left side so I know when the disc is close to wearing out. I replaced the friction disc recently and found the rubber was worn unevenly (same side as yours wore most). The hex shaft was worn where it rides in the bearing, more on right side where the splined drive for the cog is located. But also on the other side, but not as much.

Bought a new hex shaft from the dealer and checked it against the old bearings and new bearings, no difference. So there is a light interference fit that will allow the shaft to spin in the bearing and wear. So I checked for side movement in the shaft when installed and there is just a little. So I used blue locktite on the shaft bearing surfaces and a thin washer on the left side of shaft to take out the side movement and load the bearings ever so slightly.

Attached are pics showing the wear indicator in released position, engaged position and then in near worn out position. My indicator was just about touching the right side of opening. With this Ariens system you cannot overload the wheel drive pressure. The pic of the friction disc shows it leaning to the left, reverse that when looking at it installed in the maintenance position. The most wear occurs on the right side (drive cog side). The hex shaft wear is shown on both bearing surfaces but is much more on the drive cog side.

You may want to check your hex shaft for wear too.

Hey all..thanks so much for the great replies, and thank you Town for such an indepth one. I don't shift on the fly, as it loves to destroy transmissions. the point that e.Fisher26 has some merrit, as I did check the cable adjustment a little bit into the winter,and it was not set properly.I reset it, so that the indicator now touches the left side of the square in the body.That may have had something to do with it.I bought this from the local JD Dealer, who said it was used there a little bit, but now I am thinking it was a return. They were very good about supplying warranty for the friction wheel.What town has to say about the wear in the hex shaft certainly makes sense as well.My disk looks the same as Town's, but did not have the ridge on the opposite side as Town's. So...I was thinking that the whole disk assembly is not running true so yesterday I took some shots of the friction wheel with a level on it for plumb ( it may look like the level is sitting slightly on one of the screws, but it is not)....the whole system seems to be straight and true. SO...I don't know, and i guess I will have to wait until next year to find out. I do know one thing...replacing this disk was the easiest one I have ever done....literally 25 minutes to R&R. The **** belly pan took longer to put back. But, I did figure that out too...I removed the clips on the pan, put them on my big vise, hammered each of the tops closed, and they screws went in like butter. But, forgive my Lord, for the words I said, trying to but the bolts back in before I fixed the clips!
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post #7 of 30 Old 04-19-2019, 09:16 AM
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I agree with JL and EF especially with the Craftsman/Murray, that disc is a solid doughnut of rubber
that under most circumstances will last almost forever. I only changed mine [disc] after around about 20 years, because I thought it was time. I keep a couple of spares, sealed in plastic, just in case. Those vulcanized discs, I think will peel off if they are pressed too tight when driven, that as been my expierence .
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post #8 of 30 Old 04-19-2019, 04:41 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sid View Post
I agree with JL and EF especially with the Craftsman/Murray, that disc is a solid doughnut of rubber
that under most circumstances will last almost forever. I only changed mine [disc] after around about 20 years, because I thought it was time. I keep a couple of spares, sealed in plastic, just in case. Those vulcanized discs, I think will peel off if they are pressed too tight when driven, that as been my expierence .
Sid
I loved my Craftsman/Murray, and I changed my disk about 19 years, but it was a nightmare to change. Trying to engage the gear into the sprocket on the left, and then into the chain, and the washers on the spindle....and just when you almost have it, the spacer(s) drop into the abyss.Well it left the air kinda "blue" in the garage. But doing my new Ariens was an absolute treat....so easy and simple....done in 20-25 minutes, and not one swearword. But then I could not believe that I tore my friction assemby apart,fixed it easily and successfully but couldn't put the belly pan on! GRRRR.
But, ended up fixing the clips...just hammer the top end on them closed ( leave enough space to be able to slide them over the metal) where they fold over, and the screws were in in seconds.

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post #9 of 30 Old 04-19-2019, 06:04 PM
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40 years on my 1979 824 and going strong!


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post #10 of 30 Old 04-20-2019, 06:18 PM
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Did those clips come with each of your blowers or did you by them due to belly pan hole stripping/enlarging???
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