2015 28" Pro 926038 - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
 
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post #1 of 10 Old 09-09-2019, 12:44 AM Thread Starter
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2015 28" Pro 926038

Hi guys, I need your input on this thread.

I happen to come across a 2015 Pro 28" 926038 for sale. It is in pretty darn good shape but it was used on a gravel driveway and it does have wear on the lower right impeller area along with the inside of the chute. The owner was very up front with making it known to me.

I thought it could make a good machine to get better thowing ability throw. It was not used a lot from what the owner says. He claims maybe... around 6 hours if that with premium fuel.

I did some reading about the auto turn, but I am confused on what and how... it actually is suppose to work and what it is supposed to do. When I started this machine and maneuvered it around the yard... with the bucket up... it seemed to be jerky like when I went to turn it but not all of the time. Is this the way it is supposed to feel and work? I understand that we are talking... a BIG difference from my 1971 to this 2015 machine, but I just thought it just a weird feeling on how it responded and what it did.

All in all, the machine is... in fantastic shape except for what I have mentioned, but I think I can remedy this with a little TLC. I pull started it with ease and the Briggs ran fine. The price also seems good. I did read some comments about fuel tank capacity getting smaller and about the axle position being changed. Is there cause for concern? What year did these areas change?

So can you guys give me some pointers and a bit of an education on this machine?

Thanks...
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post #2 of 10 Old 09-09-2019, 09:55 AM
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Auto turn can feel a bit jerky at some times. Try turning by pushing sideways on the handles instead of pushing / pulling. That usually seems to make it turn better. As far as I know, the axle never moved on the Pro models, only the others.
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post #3 of 10 Old 09-09-2019, 03:39 PM
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The Pro machines do not have the AutoTurn issues that some owners of other Ariens models complain about. Ariens noted this and figured it was the balance (weight on bucket compared to weight on wheels) of the Pro models that made the difference. So about 2017 or so Ariens changed the wheel axle location (moved it forward) of most other models to match the relative position of the Pro models and their balance. Most people like the change. So you have no worries with the Pro you are thinking of buying. Using the Ariens low friction plastic skid shoes rather than the steel high friction skid shoes also resolves the possible squirelly straight line performance of AutoTurn.

The AutoTurn locks both drive wheels for maximum traction in a straight line and releases the lock to a certain extent as the operator moves the handlebars to make a turn. As the machine turns the inside wheel to the turn slows down and the outside wheel speeds up to make the turn. If you do not make a smooth turn and change the relative wheel speed in the turn the AutoTurn will lock a little. You soon get used to that. On my machine there are lots of clicks when making a turn. AutoTurn should be very easy to use on your Pro and will be reliable and you will love it.

The B&S uses a 6 liter gas tank and no changes made. I think for this coming season Ariens are dropping the B&S engine in favour of the LCT engine of 420cc which has the small gas tank of 3 liters (0.8 US gallons) same as my 414cc LCT engine (before I upgraded to the B&S 6 liter tank). These engines are no more fuel efficient than any other big OHV engine.

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post #4 of 10 Old 09-22-2019, 12:03 PM Thread Starter
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I did end up purchasing the machine. Since last weekend, I have put in a good amount of time since. I drained as much fuel as I could and then drained the oil. It wasn't dirty or clean. It supposively has less then 5 hours on her in three seasons. He did clear a stone driveway with her so it did have some wear to the chute and impeller area but I have taken care of that. I am at the stage of tipping her on the bucket and getting underneath to inspect and lube along with checking the gear case gear oil level. I bought oil and extra shear bolts on Saturday. I was going to purchase some L3 gear case oil, but honestly I was shocked when I was told how much it was. So I held off. I read in the manual where if... you do not see any signs of leakage or wettness, there should be no reason to add. I will eventually purchase some after searching around for what the average price is.

Does anyone have any other suggestions as to what else I should look over?
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post #5 of 10 Old 09-22-2019, 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Kielbasa View Post
.......

Does anyone have any other suggestions as to what else I should look over?
The oil level in the gearbox should be checked so you can be sure the gearbox will be lubricated properly. You cannot see the level, so you need a dipstick that will measure from the fill plug base well into the gearbox. The oil should appear on the dipstick at a level between 2.38" and 2.63" from the fill plug base. The rear seal on gearbox where impeller shaft enters is prone to wear and leak at speed.

Transmission friction disc rubber needs to be checked for wear. The hex shaft needs light lubrication. The gears and chain need lubrication. there is a grease nipple on right side of chassis by the axle that needs a couple of squirts of grease. Augers need grease after shear pins removed to turn the auger.

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post #6 of 10 Old 09-23-2019, 10:58 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Town. I did read this in the owners manual, but I just want to make sure. I do not see any sign of leakage behind the gear box. I hope this does not sound like a stupid question, but what does the zerk fitting on the side of the tractor body lubrcate?

Thanks again.

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The oil level in the gearbox should be checked so you can be sure the gearbox will be lubricated properly. You cannot see the level, so you need a dipstick that will measure from the fill plug base well into the gearbox. The oil should appear on the dipstick at a level between 2.38" and 2.63" from the fill plug base. The rear seal on gearbox where impeller shaft enters is prone to wear and leak at speed.

Transmission friction disc rubber needs to be checked for wear. The hex shaft needs light lubrication. The gears and chain need lubrication. there is a grease nipple on right side of chassis by the axle that needs a couple of squirts of grease. Augers need grease after shear pins removed to turn the auger.
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post #7 of 10 Old 09-23-2019, 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Kielbasa View Post
Thanks Town. I did read this in the owners manual, but I just want to make sure. I do not see any sign of leakage behind the gear box. I hope this does not sound like a stupid question, but what does the zerk fitting on the side of the tractor body lubrcate?

Thanks again.
How are we to learn if we don't ask questions and there are no stupid ones. The hex shaft driven by the friction disc transfers power through a small cog on the shaft to a chain that drives a larger cog on the idler shaft with a gear that drives the AutoTurn differential gear. The nipple provides grease to the bearing that allows both the large chain cog and the gear to rotate freely on the fixed idler shaft.

See attached pics showing the grease nipple at the end of the idler shaft and the chain drive and gear drive that rotate on the idler shaft.

The nipple requires a couple of pumps of grease every year. Do not over grease or you will have grease everywhere in the trans.

Note the rust on the wheel axle shaft after first season. Keep those axles greased every year since a lot of water gets in there.

Good luck.
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post #8 of 10 Old 09-25-2019, 05:42 PM Thread Starter
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This might be a real silly question, but... do the augers have to be set in a certain way and position for getting snow back to the impeller fan?
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post #9 of 10 Old 09-25-2019, 05:47 PM
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Not silly at all. If they are reversed, they will push the snow away from the middle instead of feeding it to the impeller.
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post #10 of 10 Old 09-25-2019, 06:32 PM
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This might be a real silly question, but... do the augers have to be set in a certain way and position for getting snow back to the impeller fan?
The augers rotate forward so that when looking from the left side of the machine (operators position left) the augers will move counter clockwise. So from the operators right side the augers will move clockwise. If you look at the attached pic to the right side of pic you will see the ribbon and visualise it turning toward you (from top to bottom) and see the ribbon move the snow toward the center where the impeller is located. A similar situation for the left side moving snow toward the center. The augers are not interchangeable. There is a right and left part.

Good luck
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