After market vs Original Equipment parts?? - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 13 Old 09-25-2019, 11:16 AM Thread Starter
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After market vs Original Equipment parts??

Hi I have a 1977 Ariens 7HP 924032 008001


I was curious as to whether an Ariens 3003 friction wheel or is after market better the same or inferior? I note some sellers suggest that the rubber density/hardness is superior on the Ariens brand. Really curious about this and is it all hype to get more money?


Same with the wheel bushings 55039 ( I believe these to be correct for my Ariens).


Any comments, suggestions or experience with after market vs OEM?


Thanks
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post #2 of 13 Old 09-25-2019, 12:00 PM
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I use aftermarket when available...Rotary in particular.
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post #3 of 13 Old 09-25-2019, 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by cranman View Post
I use aftermarket when available...Rotary in particular.
I like rotary also for friction wheel because they are center ground for proper engagement, some cheaper ones have a ridge from the molding process. The ridge makes improper contact on the contact plate, which forces you to apply more pressure than what is needed to operate properly. So you either have a slipping Drive or you prematurely wear your new drive wheel. When encountering a replacement wheel with a ridge I mount it on a shaft and rotate it while using a flap wheel sanding discs to give it an even surface. Has worked well for me.

Ariens 24" 910962 7HP
Ariens 24" 924117 Modified Pro 342cc / 15.50 GT.. Currently Under Construction and testing trials commenced .......
Ariens 32" 924044 Modified Pro 342cc / 16.50 GT
Ariens / Troy Bilt 36" Frankenblower
Ariens 32" 924??? Double auger Monster TBD.....
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post #4 of 13 Old 09-25-2019, 09:41 PM
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The stock Ariens friction disc for my machine has the molding flashing in the center of the rubber. It is not cheap. I did not know this is a problem.

2015 Ariens Platinum 30 SHO - model 921040
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post #5 of 13 Old 09-26-2019, 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Shaw351 View Post
I like rotary also for friction wheel because they are center ground for proper engagement, some cheaper ones have a ridge from the molding process. The ridge makes improper contact on the contact plate, which forces you to apply more pressure than what is needed to operate properly. So you either have a slipping Drive or you prematurely wear your new drive wheel. When encountering a replacement wheel with a ridge I mount it on a shaft and rotate it while using a flap wheel sanding discs to give it an even surface. Has worked well for me.
Would you have any suggestions on how to setup the proper contact pressure between friction disc and drive plate? Getting it right may reduce the number of friction disc changes I need. Changed my friction disc for the 3rd time this spring and my machine is 5 seasons old. Also changed the hex shaft.

I follow the Ariens procedure for clutch setup, to eliminate slack in apply cable (no slack but not tight either) and there is an indicator attached to the drive plate to show clutch full released and when applied. So I can see when the clutch is applied to just touching drive plate to friction disc and when full clutch lever movement moves the indicator a little more for full contact pressure. Drive is very strong and no slip and friction disc is smooth and without any cracks or damage in previous 2 discs.

Any help in setting the correct pressure would be very helpful.

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post #6 of 13 Old 09-26-2019, 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Town View Post
Any help in setting the correct pressure would be very helpful.
I found this Ariens video on how to adjust, helpful.
https://youtu.be/8CkJz4YLFBc

And this was helpful as well
https://youtu.be/kHHh0v2e7b0

2014 Ariens 24" Platinum
2010 Yard Machines 600 Series, 24" w/179cc MTD engine
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Last edited by enigma-2; 09-26-2019 at 03:44 PM.
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post #7 of 13 Old 09-26-2019, 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by enigma-2 View Post
I found this Ariens video on how to adjust, helpful.
https://youtu.be/8CkJz4YLFBc

And this was helpful as well
https://youtu.be/kHHh0v2e7b0
Thanks enigma, for the videos. That is how I adjust the wheel drive clutch with the cable snug and the indicator full forward.

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post #8 of 13 Old 09-27-2019, 12:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Town View Post
The stock Ariens friction disc for my machine has the molding flashing in the center of the rubber. It is not cheap. I did not know this is a problem.
Hey Town, I watched the videos that were recommended and they are similar to what I do but I don't measure distances in inches..... but rather the feel of the tension on the drive levers.
I adjust my machines so that I'm actually starting to stretch the spring when my lever is about 3/4 of its travel range, then the last 1/4 is stretching the spring. Hope that makes sense, hard to put into words rather that show you what I'm trying to say.

Ariens 24" 910962 7HP
Ariens 24" 924117 Modified Pro 342cc / 15.50 GT.. Currently Under Construction and testing trials commenced .......
Ariens 32" 924044 Modified Pro 342cc / 16.50 GT
Ariens / Troy Bilt 36" Frankenblower
Ariens 32" 924??? Double auger Monster TBD.....
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post #9 of 13 Old 09-27-2019, 05:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shaw351 View Post
Hey Town, I watched the videos that were recommended and they are similar to what I do but I don't measure distances in inches..... but rather the feel of the tension on the drive levers.
I adjust my machines so that I'm actually starting to stretch the spring when my lever is about 3/4 of its travel range, then the last 1/4 is stretching the spring. Hope that makes sense, hard to put into words rather that show you what I'm trying to say.
Thanks for your expertise and update. I think I understand how you setup your clutches. I will follow your approach.

I prefer to buy Ariens (or whatever equipment manufacturer) parts for the equipment I am using. I can count on the quality. Since I don't buy a lot of parts for my use then aftermarket can be a hit or miss.

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post #10 of 13 Old 10-01-2019, 09:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shaw351 View Post
Hey Town, I watched the videos that were recommended and they are similar to what I do but I don't measure distances in inches..... but rather the feel of the tension on the drive levers.
I adjust my machines so that I'm actually starting to stretch the spring when my lever is about 3/4 of its travel range, then the last 1/4 is stretching the spring. Hope that makes sense, hard to put into words rather that show you what I'm trying to say.
Hi Shaw351,
I checked my wheel drive clutch using your approach of lever travel to spring tension. The result surprised me. I moved the lever a very short distance for the black indicator to show drive plate contacting the friction disc and the spring not under tension. That is maybe 1/8 of total lever travel. So the remaining 7/8 of lever travel applied tension to the spring and stretched it and the indicator moved to show more deflection on the friction disc rubber. My clutch is setup according to the Ariens manual and the way it came from the factory, but I am going to change that.

Thank you for taking the time to tell me how you setup your clutch. Seeing the lever movement in stock form makes your explanation perfectly understandable. I will adjust my cable to introduce more slack so the lever applies spring tension closer to handlebar as you have suggested. It seems likely, as you suggested, that the very high spring pressure is responsible for high wear on the friction disc from new.

Thanks again.

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