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post #1 of 13 Old 10-29-2019, 05:08 PM Thread Starter
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924050 questions

I've had this snowblower for 5 years (purchased used from someone on CL who would refurbish and re-sell old snowblowers). I have to admit, until this year I did not perform much maintenance on it other than changing the oil once or twice and getting a carb rebuild kit (which may contribute to one of my problems/questions). The machine worked okay for the past 5 winters but when I was starting it up last month in preparation for the upcoming winter I realized that it really needed some TLC. Everything seemed to work okay so I believe it's just regular maintenance items that it needs.

In researching new Ariens snowblowers I came to the realization that I really did not want to spend $1,500 on a new, powerful, high quality machine if I could spend $100-$200 on parts/tools and get another 5 years or more out my current unit. It's Ariens model #924050 and serial #005321. These forums, and YouTube, have been helpful in learning about the machine and how to do some of the maintenance.

This month I decided to really get down to completing some real maintenance including new belts, sparkplug, brake, auger/impeller bearing, gearcase lube, auger grease, belt cover, skids, replaced the missing choke knob, snow clearing tool mounted...and maybe purchase some drift cutters and a light of some sort? While I have everything apart, I've been cleaning and greasing/lubing parts as I go along. There is certainly alot of surface rust on the bucket and auger, but I'm not tackling a paint job on it this year (maybe next summer!).

Engine ID mismatch:
The manual says that the engine should be Tecumseh HM80-155128F but the indicator on the engine (underneath the electric starter) says it is HM80-155128E. I searched the forums earlier and it seems someone else had same issue with theirs and the consensus was that Ariens used one of the 155128E engines instead of the 155128F as it was early in the production year? If I'm reading the engine serial number correctly (9017D) it was built on the 17th day of 1979.

When it comes to replacing the carburetor, it seems that the F model of the engine has replacement carburetor (632334A) available very cheap online while the E model only has a more expensive service carburetor available (631957B). Is there really a difference in the carburetor for the two engines? Can I get the one for the F model and use it on my E model engine? A few years ago I got a carb rebuild kit (I do not recall from where I bought it, or specifically which carb model it was for) and it runs okay...but it does leak gas when priming. So nothing too bad, but since I'm doing all the other maintenance items I thought it would be good to get a new and correct carburetor.


Pictures below for reference. All were taken when I first took it out of the garage last month, before I started taking machine apart for maintenance and cleaning.
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Last edited by greggmischenko; 10-30-2019 at 11:56 AM.
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post #2 of 13 Old 10-29-2019, 05:19 PM
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It looks like it is worth fixing up. That is my favorite Ariens model....I've got several......BTW...they are supposed to leak when you prime them.....you are squirting gas in the mouth of the carb......check the movement of the impeller bearing and the wheel bearings. After 30 or 40 years, they sometimes need replacement...LOL
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post #3 of 13 Old 10-29-2019, 06:29 PM
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@Greg,

As far as the choke, look at the pictures on both, but I think the difference is how the choke lever is fashioned. You may have to mod for the new choke lever. I put the 632334 on an HM8, 924 series, and just reconfigured a mod for the choke, runs fine.

I would personally take off the lawn tires and the bouncy chains, they beat the machine and surface way to much in my opinion, and opt for the XTrac snow tires like all the new blowers come with.
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post #4 of 13 Old 10-29-2019, 08:02 PM
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That is a good Model worth spending a few bucks on. +1 on the Bearings, and a New Auger Belt. If you don't want to Paint it, at least get some rust converter to stop the Rust. You can get Fancy Later. GL.
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post #5 of 13 Old 11-01-2019, 02:44 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the feedback and suggestions. I clarified my original post to make it clear I did get a new impeller bearing (I was calling it the auger bearing, but that was not correct). Wheel bearings seem good (it's possible they were replaced in the past as I see it has a newer looking friction disc as well). I got 2 new brand new PIX kevlar belts that are going on the machine. The old drive belt had chunks missing so glad I got to that now. The auger belt looked okay but figured I'd just replace it since it's cheap/easy and I already have the machine apart.

I did not know it's normal for the carb to leak! So maybe I'll just clean the carb that's on the machine already and re-adjust it for the new season since it seems to work okay. I did pick up a whole new carb setup from Amazon for cheap, but may end up returning it if I decide I can keep what I have.


Any recommendations for a rust converter? Years and years ago I used naval jelly for another project to remove rust, but not sure if this is the same? Seems that a lot of products are designed to neutralize/remove rust, but not actually prevent it from coming back or spreading.
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post #6 of 13 Old 11-01-2019, 03:00 PM
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What I do on those old Ariens is to get a Scotch pad to fit on the drill and scuff off the rust and loose paint...then prime with either Rusty Metal Primer from rustoleum, or Rustoleum Rust converter. I then top coat with rustoleum Allis Chalmers orange. I use the spray on the outside, but brush in the bucket
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post #7 of 13 Old 11-01-2019, 03:36 PM
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Seems like if you want to go a more affordable route then buying direct Ariens orange paint is like the Cranman said.....Allis Chalmers Orange or also the Engine Chevy Block Orange Enamel seem to be very close matches....lets us know what you use and how it comes out!!!!
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post #8 of 13 Old 11-01-2019, 03:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cranman View Post
What I do on those old Ariens is to get a Scotch pad to fit on the drill and scuff off the rust and loose paint...then prime with either Rusty Metal Primer from rustoleum, or Rustoleum Rust converter. I then top coat with rustoleum Allis Chalmers orange. I use the spray on the outside, but brush in the bucket
Cranman, Simplicity has two orange paint colors...the Deep orange and the powder Orange do you know if Simpicity has the same orange in one of those as Alllis Chalmers Orange....from old alliance back in the day????
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post #9 of 13 Old 11-01-2019, 05:54 PM
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I've got a Simplicity Sno Away 7 that is a very dark orange....now more rust colored LOL...it's a parts machine so I haven't tried painting it. Saving it for parts for my Allis Chalmers Tracker 7...don't know much about Simplicity colors.
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post #10 of 13 Old 11-02-2019, 03:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cranman View Post
I've got a Simplicity Sno Away 7 that is a very dark orange....now more rust colored LOL...it's a parts machine so I haven't tried painting it. Saving it for parts for my Allis Chalmers Tracker 7...don't know much about Simplicity colors.

Yeah that would be the Deep Orange 1685611SM on yours!!!!
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