927LE tune up - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
 
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post #1 of 9 Old 11-14-2019, 01:23 PM Thread Starter
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927LE tune up

Hi,

I bought the snowblower Ariens 927LE for a decent price and wanted to know if there's anything on it I should clean/replace/grease/etc. I figure it's about 10 years old and not sure the previous owner(s) gave it much love.

Here's an image : https://ibb.co/L14N43v



It does have some rust a little that the previous owner painted but more esthetics than anything else.


I got to use it a few days ago since we got a first snow storm here in Montreal.

A few things I noticed when I used it the first time and wonder how to fix.

1) seems like the traction is not even in the two wheel. There's one wheel that pulls a lot more than the other. The shaft attached to the wheels seems turning at the same speed but one of the wheel doesn't look properly attached like it's missing a pin or something. If you check in the picture you will see there's like a stopper at the end of the shaft but I don't think there's a pin. I think there's a part missing.

2) The choke or carburetor (not sure which) once leaked some gas after turning off the engine but that was only after starting it for a short time and turning it off quickly. I don't think it does it when it runs but maybe what ever the choke/carburetor or what is attached in the back needs to be cleaned or replaced. Any way I can know if I should replace something?

3) Engine runs okay but when hot seems like it wanted to stall if the choke was not set to what I think is too rich (a lot to the past noon mark). This issue might be related to 2) and I not really sure if it was just old gas the problem. The snowblower did come with gas and I have no clue how old that gas was. Once the tank had about 1/3 left it started doing it more and I added newer gas and it was much better. Also pressing the thing to inject gas helped. Also wonder if changing the sparkplug/engine oil and anything else could help with that.

4) Seems like the slow speed goes still pretty fast Anyway of slowing it down more and giving it more torque? I feel like the wheel turn quite fast but if the blower reaches some obstacle, the wheel instead of wanting to propel the blower, they want to spin. Probably exaggerating a little but I wonder if there's an adjustment possible.

Other than the annoyances above, the snow blower works pretty well. It's the most powerful snow blower I had in a while even if the engine specs are similar to the last one I had. Goes to show that a lot of the power comes from how the gear box transfers it to the different components.

BR,

Mathieu
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post #2 of 9 Old 11-14-2019, 02:34 PM
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I believe you have a model 921005, check your model number on machine.

go here to get the operators manual (and parts manual)
https://www.ariens.com/en-us/manuals/download
The manual will tell you how to adjust the remote wheel lock and the speed selector, as well as lots of other stuff.
You should clean, adjust, and lubricate everything.
Remove wheels NOW and put grease on axles (don't lose the axle keys) to prevent rust welding, remove belly pan and lightly grease the hex shaft in the transmission, lightly oil all shafts and bushings in transmission. Don't get anything on the rubber wheel or the flat disc, if you do, clean it off. If the auger shaft has grease fittings, apply lots of grease to the auger tube to prevent rust welding. If there are no grease fittings on the auger assembly it will need to be removed to grease the auger shaft (removal is a time consuming process, you don't have to do it now, but if you don't you may be sorry later). Install a new spark plug, drain old fuel, remove and clean carb fuel bowl, change oil. You may have a carb problem but get all the old gas out first.

1986 Toro 524 (Predator 212 Hemi, Impeller Mod.)
1997 Toro 724
1997 Toro 824XL Power Throw
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post #3 of 9 Old 11-14-2019, 08:43 PM
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Check for a missing axle key on the wheel that does not seem to be driving. The key is what transfers torque from the axle shafts to the wheels. As was mentioned above, be sure to grease the axle before replacing the wheels.
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post #4 of 9 Old 11-14-2019, 08:48 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks toromike.

Looking the manuals and YouTube, I see that my snow blower has nothing wrong with it by having one of the wheel not turning, it's a feature!

The remote wheel lock is quite cleaver and I asked the guy who sold me the blower what it was for and he said, ah that is to unlock the wheels if you need to move it around but I don't understand it was to lock/unlock only one of the wheels, I thought it was both.

I will give it a good greasing and old the shafts and bushings. I trick I saw was to put antiseeze on the wheel shaft when the wheels turn. Would you recommend that?

Also I have like all purpose grease I could apply but some people said low temp grease might be better. Is it really better?

I will tune up engine if after changing the gas doesn't help. It's pretty cold now and would be a bigger job to do that 🙂

Apparently also the auger part in the front is new so I think the grease must still be not bad but will check.

Thanks for the help.

Quote:
Originally Posted by toromike View Post
I believe you have a model 921005, check your model number on machine.

go here to get the operators manual (and parts manual)
https://www.ariens.com/en-us/manuals/download
The manual will tell you how to adjust the remote wheel lock and the speed selector, as well as lots of other stuff.
You should clean, adjust, and lubricate everything.
Remove wheels NOW and put grease on axles (don't lose the axle keys) to prevent rust welding, remove belly pan and lightly grease the hex shaft in the transmission, lightly oil all shafts and bushings in transmission. Don't get anything on the rubber wheel or the flat disc, if you do, clean it off. If the auger shaft has grease fittings, apply lots of grease to the auger tube to prevent rust welding. If there are no grease fittings on the auger assembly it will need to be removed to grease the auger shaft (removal is a time consuming process, you don't have to do it now, but if you don't you may be sorry later). Install a new spark plug, drain old fuel, remove and clean carb fuel bowl, change oil. You may have a carb problem but get all the old gas out first.
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post #5 of 9 Old 11-14-2019, 09:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mforgues View Post
I will give it a good greasing and old the shafts and bushings. I trick I saw was to put antiseeze on the wheel shaft when the wheels turn. Would you recommend that?

Also I have like all purpose grease I could apply but some people said low temp grease might be better. Is it really better?
Yes, put antiseize on the wheel shafts if you have it. If not, since this is the beginning of the season, just grease will do for now but don't forget to get some antiseize later and put that on when you prepare it for off-season storage in the spring. The important thing NOW is to have something on there to prevent it from rusting and "rust-welding" the wheels to the axles. But DO NOT forget to do that or you'll be sorry when you try to take the wheels off!

The low temperature grease will flow better in low temperatures, hence the name. If all you're doing is to grease the wheel hubs where they contact the axles, that probably won't matter, just so long as it's greased so as not to rust as described above. If all you have is "all purpose" grease then that is certainly better than nothing and it sure won't hurt. The important thing is to have grease - any grease - on there so it won't rust. If I'm wrong I'm sure someone will correct me.
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post #6 of 9 Old 11-14-2019, 10:31 PM
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You can use an anti-seize compound on the axles, a waterproof wheel bearing grease or even chassis grease if that's all you have. The anti-seize is messy stuff. I put the grease on the axle shaft and inside the axle hole on the wheel, then put the wheel on the axle without the the key and spin the wheel around, then put the key back in. One grease might last longer than another but the important thing is to put something on the axle at least once a year. A rust welded wheel is not fun. You can't be sure what has been done if a new auger has been installed. It may not have been greased. A rust welded auger can be worse than a rust welded wheel. The augers should be a little loose on the shaft, you should be able to wiggle them a little. If you don't grease them, keep an eye on them and if they ever get tight, take them apart as soon as possible. The shear pins should be a little loose too. It is often recommended to use low temperature grease on the hex shaft. But modern grease is not very thick and with only a very thin coat it will work too. Some just apply a little oil instead of grease. You can use what you have if you want. If the speed selector moves smoothly and easily that's what matters. Check your manual for how to check and what's recommended for the auger gearbox.

Pick up several shear pins in case you hit something buried in the snow. Also, remove the belt cover and inspect the belts. It's a good idea to have spare traction drive and auger belts on hand. Old belts can break in heavy snow. While you're in the transmission inspect the condition of the rubber wheel, it should not be cracked, broken, or worn down.

1986 Toro 524 (Predator 212 Hemi, Impeller Mod.)
1997 Toro 724
1997 Toro 824XL Power Throw
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post #7 of 9 Old 11-14-2019, 11:25 PM
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Also believe an old manual of mine said to use motor oil on the axle shafts is fine as well...

if rusty at all run some sand paper over the axles first or wire brush and make sure to wipe clean with wd40 or something first.... then oil both axles well after...Then spin the wheels to spread the oil on inner side of rim before replacing pins.

Antisieze might be a better option if you have it same method as oil....but if you do not have antiseize that is another option...

As others have said check those auger shafts remove those shear pins and spin those rakes....if no spin.....get them off ASAP!!!!! Not fun but getter done!!!! Heat heat heat!!!! Then Grease those shafts as well.

Last edited by SimplicitySolid22; 11-14-2019 at 11:33 PM.
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post #8 of 9 Old 11-17-2019, 08:18 PM Thread Starter
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I took some time today to grease up some of the locations you guys were recommending.

You can look at some pictures here using this link since I am not sure how to attach correctly to the post.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/CfHb9kE8mL9H8Fz5A

You will see I used copper anti seize since it was all I had for anti seize and hope it won't cause problems.

I also greased some other components that seem to need it. I didn't put anything on the metallic "disk" and the rubber wheel.

I was wondering is that rubber wheel in good shape since it seems new?

I took a picture of the belts and also wonder the same, they seem okay but not sure.

The front auger assembly I am pretty sure it's new and I don't see how you could grease it and of new why.

The bearings also seem greased okay.

Emptied the gas out of the tank and engine and put new one and it seems to be running alot better. Probably will change the spark plug eventually but will first need to buy one.

Let me know if you see anything fishy in the pictures I did or that you think should be replaced.

Thanks,

Mathieu
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post #9 of 9 Old 11-17-2019, 08:54 PM
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The cooper anti-seize is fine on the wheel axles. The friction wheel and the belts look like they have a little wear on them but I don't see anything that looks bad. The friction wheel surface should be smooth with no cracks or breaks. The top of the rubber surface on a new wheel is slightly rounded, your wheel looks a little flattened but it's nowhere near worn out. There should be no cracks in the V belts. Good to hear it's running better with fresh fuel. I think you're ready.

1986 Toro 524 (Predator 212 Hemi, Impeller Mod.)
1997 Toro 724
1997 Toro 824XL Power Throw
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