Ariens ST824 (924050) throttle & linkage - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 33 Old 11-27-2019, 04:05 PM Thread Starter
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Ariens ST824 (924050) throttle & linkage

Snowblower: model #924050, serial #005321
Engine: Tecumseh HM80-155128E (though manual says it should be HM80-155128F). Serial #9017D

My unit has the throttle on the control panel, cable wraps around front of the engine, and then connects to the throttle lever near the carburetor. I'm having some issues with the engine not running correctly, even after cleaning and reinstalling the carburetor and I'm wondering if maybe the linkages and throttle are not set up correctly (I purchased this machine 5-6 years ago from someone who was refurbishing/reselling them on CL, so who knows if it was set up correctly).

Unfortunately, in all of the videos and diagrams I can find, they only have the engines with the throttle that is engine mounted, right next to the carburetor. The linkage setup is different, so nothing has been that useful. I have looked in the Ariens manual & parts guide, etc. as well as downloaded the Tecumseh Technician's handbook - but nothing actually has pictures of what I'm looking for.

Does anyone know where I can find diagrams of how exactly this should be set up? Specifically:
1) Where the throttle cable should route from the control panel and how it connects to the throttle arm
2) closeup photo/illustration of the linkages and which holes they go in
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post #2 of 33 Old 11-27-2019, 04:35 PM
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That Engine has Points-type ignition. I'd check that First.
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post #3 of 33 Old 11-27-2019, 08:17 PM
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See if these help. Mines a 7hp engine, but I would think they're similar.
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1980 Ariens ST724

Last edited by Matt715; 11-27-2019 at 08:19 PM.
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post #4 of 33 Old 11-28-2019, 12:16 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt715 View Post
See if these help. Mines a 7hp engine, but I would think they're similar.
Thank you for posting! Unfortunately, yours is a different setup from mine. My carburetor is turned 90 degrees from yours with the choke knob/inlet facing the operator. So the linkage setup looks very different. I took some pictures of my machine on my phone an will try to get them uploaded later today to better show what it is I'm working with.


For now, here is the diagram for my engine that shows the orientation and the linkage bracket. This also shows the throttle cable being attached to the right side but mine is on the left. I don't see how having it on the right would work since pushing the throttle lever on the linkage toward the rear of the machine (toward the operator) increases the throttle. If I were to have the throttle cable coming from right to left, then when I increase the throttle on the operator control, it would actually close the throttle on the linkage.

Edit: unless maybe the throttle bracket is installed incorrectly (reversed) on the operator control panel? I have not looked at it that closely but maybe it's worth taking a look.
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post #5 of 33 Old 11-28-2019, 01:51 PM
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The key thing to remember on these old Tecs is that the gov pulls the throttle *closed* as egine RPM increases. The throttle puts tension on the spring that connects to the gov arm, and the link from the gov arm moves the throttle plate in the carb. *THERE IS NO HARD CONNECTION BETWEEN THE THROTTLE PLATE AND THE THROTTLE CONTROL ON THE DASH!*

If the spring tensions as you increase the throttle control, the direction is correct. If it over/under speeds or surges, check the gov calibration (the screw holding the little arm where the link attaches to the gov arm in your photos). Once that is set, you set the max RPM by bending open or closing the "U" shaped wire link visible in your last shot, and *NOT* with the gov linkage. If you set everything correctly, and the speed is still way off, then someone may have "fixed" it and put on the wrong spring. Speed regulation is controlled by the spring tension as balanced by the pull of the gov against it, which explains why changing tension on that spring controls RPM. Note also that with no tension from the gov, the throttle plate will typically be wide open with the engine not running.
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post #6 of 33 Old 11-29-2019, 08:39 AM Thread Starter
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Here are some pictures of my throttle and linkage setup. No idea if this is exactly correct but it's how it was when I bought the machine. I cleaned everything up a few weeks ago and it all moves freely with nothing sticking. Governor spring is brand new as well.



Quote:
Originally Posted by tadawson View Post
The key thing to remember on these old Tecs is that the gov pulls the throttle *closed* as egine RPM increases. The throttle puts tension on the spring that connects to the gov arm, and the link from the gov arm moves the throttle plate in the carb. *THERE IS NO HARD CONNECTION BETWEEN THE THROTTLE PLATE AND THE THROTTLE CONTROL ON THE DASH!*

If the spring tensions as you increase the throttle control, the direction is correct. If it over/under speeds or surges, check the gov calibration (the screw holding the little arm where the link attaches to the gov arm in your photos). Once that is set, you set the max RPM by bending open or closing the "U" shaped wire link visible in your last shot, and *NOT* with the gov linkage. If you set everything correctly, and the speed is still way off, then someone may have "fixed" it and put on the wrong spring. Speed regulation is controlled by the spring tension as balanced by the pull of the gov against it, which explains why changing tension on that spring controls RPM. Note also that with no tension from the gov, the throttle plate will typically be wide open with the engine not running.
I completely understand what you're saying and thank you for explaining it so clearly. I didn't know exactly how to put that into words. I just posted pictures of my setup which is different than Matt715's 7HP engine. I've seen a few videos on adjusting governor but I don't think this is my issue.

I can get the machine running okay starting with idle air screw at 1 turn out, main jet screw at 1.5 turns out (eventually turning to 2.5 turns out I think). I adjusted the tiny screw for max RPM to make sure it doesn't over-rev, adjusted idle speed screw as well. Everything seemed to be running great, then I engaged the auger and started driving it around the driveway (no actual snow yet) and the engine bogs down and dies.

So I'm hoping to get all the original specs/diagrams to ensure it's set up correctly, then adjust from there.

Last edited by greggmischenko; 11-29-2019 at 08:57 AM.
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post #7 of 33 Old 11-29-2019, 10:00 AM
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It shouldn't require 2.5 turns out when everything else is working correctly more like 2 turns max

check for sir leaks rebuild get a new carb
new carb 10 buks 10 min to swap out
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post #8 of 33 Old 11-29-2019, 02:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greggmischenko View Post
Here are some pictures of my throttle and linkage setup. No idea if this is exactly correct but it's how it was when I bought the machine. I cleaned everything up a few weeks ago and it all moves freely with nothing sticking. Governor spring is brand new as well.




I completely understand what you're saying and thank you for explaining it so clearly. I didn't know exactly how to put that into words. I just posted pictures of my setup which is different than Matt715's 7HP engine. I've seen a few videos on adjusting governor but I don't think this is my issue.

I can get the machine running okay starting with idle air screw at 1 turn out, main jet screw at 1.5 turns out (eventually turning to 2.5 turns out I think). I adjusted the tiny screw for max RPM to make sure it doesn't over-rev, adjusted idle speed screw as well. Everything seemed to be running great, then I engaged the auger and started driving it around the driveway (no actual snow yet) and the engine bogs down and dies.

So I'm hoping to get all the original specs/diagrams to ensure it's set up correctly, then adjust from there.
Sounds like the setup is correct, but the needles are wrong. When you bring on load, you are transitioning to the main circuit in the carb as the throttle plate opens, reacting to the load, and if it dies, that means the mixture is wrong . . . typically too lean, but both can do it. Considering the stalling and the overly open main needle, is there any chance of damage to the needle or the jet it seats in? Normall when I see this, I open the main 1/8 turn or so and try again, and also have never tuned a small engine needle to max rpm - that's almost always too lean. Starting tune should be the midpoint between the two points where the engine begins to misfire or stall, and then typically enrichen slightly if you have issues taking load.
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post #9 of 33 Old 11-30-2019, 04:29 PM Thread Starter
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Seems like I may need to try a new carb. It ran okay for last couple of years since I rebuilt it but it just does not want to work this year. Unfortunately the cheap carbs do not seem to work for my engine so I guess I'll be looking at around $90 for it.

I'll report back after I get it on.

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post #10 of 33 Old 11-30-2019, 05:11 PM
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I'm used to the throttle cable going the other way, like this:

https://www.snowblowerforum.com/foru...75-post21.html

Another alternative is to get an engine mounted throttle lever and get rid of the clunky factory setup. Here how I set up one of mine:



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