Badly worn traction belt/ Deluxe 28 #921022 - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
 
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post #1 of 4 Old 12-15-2019, 08:51 AM Thread Starter
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Badly worn traction belt/ Deluxe 28 #921022

Greeting all. First post as this machine has worked admirably for me since 2011. I have some how come to run only 91 octane winter blend fuel with 2ozs of Stabil in 5 gal jug in this machine. Iíve never turned the fuel off.and Iíd never looked in the carb bowl to see whatís up. I know, we all love pictures, but I resisted taking one of my baby food jar with a bowlfull worth of gas with ~ 2ml of water and one small chunk a junk in it. I didnít even wipe out the bowl. Put it back on fired up the machine and she ran great as always. But for the fact that the bowl gasket now leaks like there is no gasket. I was sure it dropped from the groove without me seeing it but upon checking found it still in there. So these o-ring gaskets are one timers Iím guessing. When I examined the gasket in its groove there appeared to bit bits of shiny silvery coating off the mating edge of the bowl stuck to the gasket in areas. Needs closer examination when it finally comes out but that wonít happen til the new ones arrive. Back ordered and will be shipped 12/18. My local dealer could have got it in 2 days but he was such a (itís the holidays and Iím going to remain pleasent). Just say I bought a [email protected] belt from him and didnít [email protected] to continue dealing with him. Sorry I bought the machine there bu5 I felt Iíd get better service than if Iíd gone to th3 orange store. Which brings me to the traction belt. Iím guessing the excessive wear is do to the shifting angle of the drive pulley as it is engaged to the drive wheel, perhaps it is even considered normal. The machine is on the same belt after7 seasons in SE CT. It ainít Buffalo, thank god, but itís done some work and Iím not fussing. We replaced it but I donít like the alignment. It better aligned when UNengaged than when it is engaged. The drive pulley for the transmission looks as though it needs to come forward a lot and the idler pulley actually rubs the back edge of the belt. My assessment is, pretty ugly, but there appears to be no easy adjustments. It looks like the crank pulley should move out and the idler arm would need to be REBENT to align the idler pulley to center it on the belt itself. None of which makes sense as it all seems to work itís just UGLY. So I guess you just change that belt frequently enough, keep as spare around and call it good? It ainít really broke, so nothing to fix... I didnít bothe to take pictures when the machine apart. Iíll get some next time Iím in there. I found a few threads touching on the subject of the [email protected] belt alignment, even some pictures and comments, From a CT member if I recall, so if there are recommended lthreads to this issue Iíve missed perhaps someone could offer direction. Iím long winded, Iím sorry. Best with all your projects, Peter
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post #2 of 4 Old 12-15-2019, 09:02 AM
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Peter, I am in Northwestern Connecticut, and I too bought my platinum 30 ariens that same year, with the original belts still on them to this day. Certainly due now I'm sure, but the alignment could simply be a bent arm issue. The belt does have some flex as the drive disc needs to pivot to engage the friction disc. There is a bolt that limits the travel of the disc so the angle is not too steep causing the belt to excessively wear or even fall off.

Could you take some pics and post?

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post #3 of 4 Old 12-15-2019, 09:32 AM
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A couple things to note here:

Many times the actual drive pulley on the engine is usually held on by a keyway, and tightened by 2 hex screws. These pulleys usually can be adjusted in there alignment if need be.

Many times, the idler pulley bracket wears at the point that it swivels at the engine block, requiring many times a shim (washer) or a dismantle and repair of the elongated hole. A light bend in the bracket could also be implemented without dismantling in some instances.

If one edge of your idler pully is worn to a knife, many times you can flip the idler pully around.

I am also in CT, not that it really matters, but my equipment has always been run on 87 octane reg. gas, and every time my 5 gal. cans are filled, I always put in Stabil and half the recommended rate of SeaFoam and never encountered a gas issue. If indeed you pulled some water out of you equipment, somehow moisture must have gotten in it somehow.

Taking apart a carb many times requires new seals.

Even though many belts last for years and years, depending on use and storage, 9 years out of a belt may be normal for some.
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post #4 of 4 Old 12-15-2019, 10:37 AM Thread Starter
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Okay I was hoping to hear from Oneacer because Iíve seen your posts and your answers are what I would expect and your advice seems spot on. In other words, I kinda agree! I was thinking that the pulley had to be adjustable as they are changeable, duh. and the slop in the idler arm is apparent, but it seems it canít really be wear....there just isnít enough time on the machine. Maybe a bushing or a collared bushing better yet! Iíll probably do nothing till it needs a belt again🙃. Thanx for the respected feedback. And Bassplayer!.... weíve worked on my Generac MF6500 in the past where you tried to straighten out output (htz) issues. As a matter of fact youíll be seeing me over there soon as the gen set is coming in the shop as soon as I get the @#$&* snowblower outta the way. I need replace the governor backlash spring and I think that I messed up my adjustment on that. Off topic! Not sorry...see ya over there. Thanx to you all who like these guys make it easier for guys like me who NEED some adult supervision. Best with all your projects, Peter
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