924026 Rebuild - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
 
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post #1 of 5 Old 02-20-2014, 10:29 PM Thread Starter
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924026 Rebuild

I recently acquired a 924026 Tractor/ 924028 Blower from a friend and have used it more or less successfully these last few storms.

At first it would only run fully choked, but I adjusted the carb needle and it runs with the choke in now.

It works ok, but seems lacking in power as it gets bogged down quickly and doesn't throw snow as far as I expected.

I doubt much maintenance has been done on it. What should I look into first to try and reclaim the lost power? Is there a carb rebuild kit for this model? Are there different engines for this model? I don't know the engine model since the identifying plate is missing.

Other than a tuneup/rebuild, the only thing it could use is a set of chains to improve traction. Pretty impressive for being 30+ years old!
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post #2 of 5 Old 02-20-2014, 10:48 PM
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Test compression. Test RPM speed. Does the spark plug looked fouled by oil consumption? Check the belts condition. Hard, shinny old belts slip sometimes especially under heavy loads like in wet snow. Check your idler (engaged) adjustment.
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post #3 of 5 Old 02-21-2014, 08:16 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the reply. Is there a test guide for these including specs on compression and what RPM I should see at which throttle position?

I'll check the belt, but I don't think that's it as the whole engine bogs down to really low RPM.
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post #4 of 5 Old 02-21-2014, 08:33 PM
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http://www.asos1.com/tecumseh4hp/Tecumseh.pdf

Here's the link for the L head engines. There are no listed specs for compression. Due to the compression release mechanism, readings would not reflect actual compression anyway. If you are pulling 70 psi or better, you are good. 90 would be very good. Rpms at wide open throttle should be 3600. Don't go higher or you may have problems. Your carb is probably ready for clean/rebuild, but if all is working, I would wait until the snow ends. Then pull the carb, pull the head, remove carbon from head and valves, check valve clearances, flush fuel tank, install new line, new inline filter and shutoff valve if none exists now. Reassemble all with new gaskets, change out your oil, lubricate all linkages and be ready for next year! MH
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post #5 of 5 Old 02-23-2014, 12:43 AM
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A compression test will certainly give you a good indication of the health of the motor. I agree with Motorhead. 70# or higher is good. Here's my compression measurements on my 4 engines and my observations:

1. H55(1) - 95# - nice and strong, does not burn oil
2. H55(2) - 70# - similar to H55(1) in performance. may be burning a little oil
3. H60(1) - 60# - burns oil, oily spark plug, but still runs fairly strong
4. H60(2) - 80# - just got it, haven't tested.

-Ken

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