Impeller bearing play, is this acceptable? - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 39 Old 03-07-2014, 08:49 AM Thread Starter
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Impeller bearing play, is this acceptable?

I have a 2000 Ariens 1024 Pro, which I bought last spring.

It needed some work, which was mainly engine-related. It's running well now. I recently checked the auger shaft bushings, and discovered that one was kind of gone (worn away to nothing). The shaft ends seem fine, so I replaced both auger bushings, it seems OK. But the machine has clearly had some use.

Last night I was taking some measurements for a homemade impeller kit, and also checked the impeller for play in the bearing. I can move the impeller around a little, like left/right. Not lengthwise, towards the gearbox, just moving the shaft to the sides. It's a fairly small amount of play, but I don't know how much exactly (maybe something like 1/8" or less?).

Is some play normal? Or if it moves at all, is the impeller bearing in desperate need of replacement? If the bearing needs to be replaced, what's involved in that? I don't want to have to get the impeller off the shaft, as that sounds like a potential nightmare.

I haven't really done anything with the bucket half of the machine, since my initial troubles were all with the engine. The auger bushings were the first thing I've done to it. Thank you.

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post #2 of 39 Old 03-07-2014, 09:06 AM
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I do not know that brand real good but the shaft should be in there tight. no play up, down or sideways. or as I like to say snug as a bug in a rug

Long LIVE THE POWERSHIFT!! MAY IT NEVER RUST IN PEACE!!
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MAHALO!!!!!!!!!
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post #3 of 39 Old 03-07-2014, 09:25 AM
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RedOctobyr,
When the prop shaft from PTO to snow blower on my New Holland broke, and I had to try to keep our 300 yard driveway open with the old Ariens 824, that very bearing totally disintegrated. Probably had been on its way for some time.
I split the machine, removed the pulley and the hub that holds it, got the auger bushings out and lifted the whole auger and impeller assembly out. My biggest problem was to remove the woodruf key that had been in there for 20-some years. Struggled with that for a couple of days. Then the old inner bearing race came off and a new bearing (came in a JD bag marked Made in China! GRRRRR!!) slipped back on. Any radial play in a ball bearing is no good. It was a prelubricated sealed bearing, and with radial play, the seals are shot and moisture has entered the bearing and the balls are rusting.
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post #4 of 39 Old 03-07-2014, 01:49 PM
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Not difficult!!

If you are referring to the shaft bearing at the rear of the blower housing I replaced one with patience and penetrating oil. It was not difficult.

RWCP has all the parts exploded views on their site. You can get the # OFF the bearing and get it at NAPA.....OR. much cheaper on e-bay

It is a good bet that all parts like this are Chinese. Price range $7.50 ON eBay to $17.00 @ NAPA.

If I can do it.....anybody can.

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post #5 of 39 Old 03-07-2014, 09:25 PM
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Check to see if the bearing is moving in the flanges, or if the bearing itself is starting to buy the farm. In any case, I would NOT buy a cheapo bearing from the net. 99% of common bearings use non-contact dust seals for electric motor applications. They keep out dust and dirt, not water. The ball bearings Ariens uses are engineered specifically for this application and are extremely water resistant.
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post #6 of 39 Old 03-07-2014, 10:02 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you all, I appreciate the help. Snowmann, thank you for the insight, I hadn't considered the difference in seal types.

I will have to check the bearing more closely. As long as I can get it disassembled, and the shaft itself isn't worn, I'm fine with replacing it (it's things like stuck fasteners that can suddenly be a bear).

I had tried to remove setscrews from the impeller-shaft hub (which holds the big pulley) on an ST824. The setscrews were very difficult to loosen, finally used my impact gun with success. Are those Loctited, do you need heat to soften something on them?

I suppose if I was going to try and remove the hub, I might be most of the way to pulling the whole auger assembly out of the bucket. Which could make drilling the impeller for mounting an impeller kit much easier.

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post #7 of 39 Old 03-08-2014, 12:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snowmann View Post
Check to see if the bearing is moving in the flanges, or if the bearing itself is starting to buy the farm. In any case, I would NOT buy a cheapo bearing from the net. 99% of common bearings use non-contact dust seals for electric motor applications. They keep out dust and dirt, not water. The ball bearings Ariens uses are engineered specifically for this application and are extremely water resistant.
They usually have a type ofrubber seal that looks like an engine main seal. This type of bearing is used inside my watercrafts impeller pump. spendy little suckers too if you want to buy the oem ones.
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post #8 of 39 Old 03-08-2014, 03:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedOctobyr View Post
Thank you all, I appreciate the help. Snowmann, thank you for the insight, I hadn't considered the difference in seal types.

I will have to check the bearing more closely. As long as I can get it disassembled, and the shaft itself isn't worn, I'm fine with replacing it (it's things like stuck fasteners that can suddenly be a bear).

I had tried to remove setscrews from the impeller-shaft hub (which holds the big pulley) on an ST824. The setscrews were very difficult to loosen, finally used my impact gun with success. Are those Loctited, do you need heat to soften something on them?

I suppose if I was going to try and remove the hub, I might be most of the way to pulling the whole auger assembly out of the bucket. Which could make drilling the impeller for mounting an impeller kit much easier.
Those old set screws have dry-lock patches. Tough to move them even when they aren't a few years old.
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post #9 of 39 Old 03-08-2014, 03:56 PM
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If you release the tension between the shaft and the set screw, quite often you'll get quicker release of the set screw. Find the right rivet punch that is just tight inside the set screw but will not damage it. Drive the punch repeatedly till you're sure the hit was good enough to dimple the shaft inside under the set screw. Try loosening it and apply heat too if you're still not successful.
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post #10 of 39 Old 03-08-2014, 07:09 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you guys. I bought an OEM Ariens bearing, 05406300. It's a pack of 2, PM me if you were looking to buy one of these

Splitting the bucket from the tractor on this machine is a bit of a pain, as it turns out. I had to completely remove the chute, including the bracket that mounts above the valve cover. The chute bracket mounts to the engine, but holds onto the chute, joining the two halves of the machine.

I'm guessing maybe this was the first year of this design, as the manual doesn't show the chute bracket that mounts to the engine, and the bucket-removal instructions are wrong, as they don't consider this engine-mounted bracket.

Kroil is soaking into the setscrews, and I hit their centers with a punch. I may try heating the area before trying to remove them, to soften any threadlocker. I just don't know if using a torch would burn off the penetrating oil, maybe making it useless (if there was no threadlocker, I might be shooting myself in the foot).

Or I could just be bold and try the impact gun, and see what happens

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