Modified oil drain on an Ariens Platinum LCT AX Engine. - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 35 Old 03-15-2014, 01:39 PM Thread Starter
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Question Modified oil drain on an Ariens Platinum LCT AX Engine.

My blower is still brand new and I haven't done my first oil change yet, (only have 1-1/2 hours run time), so I'll let it go until next fall.

But, I got to looking and I see that the 291cc LCT AX engine has the drain terminating on the right side, right next to the tire. Which means the machine must be jacked up and the wheel removed to do a simple oil change.

So I decided that a modification is in order. What I am looking for is an oil valve and piping (tubing) so as to be able to drain the oil with a simple twist of a level and drain into an empty quart oil container. No mess, done in a few minutes. (And the empty quart oil containers can be had for nothing any place they do oil changes.)

I *think* I've found the exactly what I was looking for.

The way way I envision it, you remove the oil drain tube, attach one of their drain valves, add a hose adapter and a 12-inch (or longer) section of clear vinyl hose that can run into an empty quart oil container, sitting on the ground next to the snowblower.

Here's the basic valve I have in mind:



Here's the optional straight hose end:



or the optional 90 hose end:



Possibly insert the valve to the engine body, reuse the existing drain pipe and the add the above 90 hose adapter so that it extends to the edge of the frame, pointing down.

They also offer adapters for recessed locations:




I don't yet know for certain as to the size, but I believe the LCT engine uses 12mm x 1.5mm thread. If so that would make the valve model number EZ-109 for $23.95, add a hose end (model H-001, $4 for straight, L-001 for a 90, $7) and a piece of 3/8-inch clear hose (local hardware) and that should do it. If needed, the adapter model is A-009 and sells for $7.

What do you guys think? I've really been tiring to come up with a fix and I think that this will work perfectly. (And their price for an all-metal, full-way globe valve is very fair).

The valve has to be absolutely reliable, under all conditions, and these are made for automotive use. Everything appears to be of good quality.

Here's the manufacturer's website:
Welcome to OilDrainValve.net, authorize online dealer of EZ Oil Drain Valve.

2014 Ariens 24" Platinum
2010 Yard Machines 600 Series, 24" w/179cc MTD engine
Toro CCR 3650 GTS
Troy Bilt 521OR w/Tecu HSSK50 engine
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post #2 of 35 Old 03-15-2014, 08:26 PM
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First of all, for the cost of a qt of oil, I would change the oil before putting your machine for the summer. Wouldn't chance leaving the contaminates in the engine til fall.

As to the different types of simple opening drains, I always feared these drains getting knocked open and lead to engine failure. It's really not that hard to grab a wrench and vise grips to do a oil change. Taking off the wheels are something I do each spring anyhow to wax the wheels, the side of the machine and put a thin coat of grease on the axle to guard against rust. But the choice is yours.
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post #3 of 35 Old 03-15-2014, 08:36 PM
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One more thing to consider is that a lot of plug ends are magnetized to pick up metal.
These aren't, are they.

I hate shoveling SNOW!
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post #4 of 35 Old 03-16-2014, 12:06 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdestuck View Post
First of all, for the cost of a qt of oil, I would change the oil before putting your machine for the summer. Wouldn't chance leaving the contaminates in the engine til fall.

As to the different types of simple opening drains, I always feared these drains getting knocked open and lead to engine failure. It's really not that hard to grab a wrench and vise grips to do a oil change. Taking off the wheels are something I do each spring anyhow to wax the wheels, the side of the machine and put a thin coat of grease on the axle to guard against rust. But the choice is yours.
I really don't think one hours use is going to be a problem for oil contamination. Dealer tod me I could do it either way as there wasn't enough time on the engine to worry about. But I'll take your advice & do it sometime this spring, when I make the drain modificatoin.

As for the drain getting knocked open, is up near the engine, and if you look closely, the valve locks in the closed position. There's a notch that the lever arm falls into and must be lifted out of to open. There's simply no way one could be accidiently "bumped" open. I would be more concerned over longevity, but they are made from high quality materials and I simple can't see it failing before the end-of life of the machine. (Another point to consider is, they are standard on other makes, like Honda for example.)

I found a better example showing the locking notch:



Remember, these are designed for general automobile use. Should one fail the manufacturer could be held liable for the cost of an auto engine, thousands of dollars.

Anyway, what I'm really looking for is the size of the oil drain pipe and thread spacing. I believe it's 12mm x1.5mm thread or 14 mm x 1.5 mm thread, but I'm just not certain. Do you have any idea what it is?

2014 Ariens 24" Platinum
2010 Yard Machines 600 Series, 24" w/179cc MTD engine
Toro CCR 3650 GTS
Troy Bilt 521OR w/Tecu HSSK50 engine

Last edited by enigma-2; 03-16-2014 at 01:56 AM.
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post #5 of 35 Old 03-16-2014, 12:23 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Ed View Post
One more thing to consider is that a lot of plug ends are magnetized to pick up metal.
These aren't, are they.
No, of course not, made of brass.

But Ed, are you saying that the standard LCT drain plug "is" magnetized? Ariens part number 125704 that sells for less than $3?

This one?


That's quite a surprise, I never realized that. Quite a bargain for $3. I would have expected a nickle-plated steel plug with a magnet insert to sell for considerably more.

Believe I'm still going to go ahead and pursue the mod as I feel it's worth it to me. I'm at the age where it's hard just to get down on my knees, let alone wrestle off a wheel from a 250 lb machine.

2014 Ariens 24" Platinum
2010 Yard Machines 600 Series, 24" w/179cc MTD engine
Toro CCR 3650 GTS
Troy Bilt 521OR w/Tecu HSSK50 engine
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post #6 of 35 Old 03-16-2014, 05:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enigma-2 View Post
No, of course not, made of brass.

But Ed, are you saying that the standard LCT drain plug "is" magnetized? Ariens part number 125704 that sells for less than $3?

This one?


That's quite a surprise, I never realized that. Quite a bargain for $3. I would have expected a nickle-plated steel plug with a magnet insert to sell for considerably more.

Believe I'm still going to go ahead and pursue the mod as I feel it's worth it to me. I'm at the age where it's hard just to get down on my knees, let alone wrestle off a wheel from a 250 lb machine.

Your valve, or anything else that can take some of the pain out of doing simple tasks, gets my vote. My discs are degenerating, and my doctor says I shouldn't even be working a snowblower. Plus its fun thinking up stuff and putting it together successfully.
My favorite oil change gizmo is the vacuum method that draws the oil from the fill hole into a container. It was 50 bucks, and it has saved me grief for ten years running on the cars and equipment.
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post #7 of 35 Old 03-16-2014, 07:09 AM
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Don't bother to change the oil until the fall, it's just going to get contaminated with water from condensation over the summer anyway and need changing in the fall with no hours on it, changing it in the spring is a waste of money and wont help you any.

As far as the drain goes, you can end up in situations where something extra sticking out of the block gets caught on something and rips out a piece of the block. It's not very likely in this case, that valve isn't long and it's in a hard area for a foreign object to get into.

When I did this for a living we just had some sheet metal we cut and bent into trays to deflect the oil into a bucket.
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post #8 of 35 Old 03-16-2014, 09:15 AM
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Another option you might want to consider would be to invest in a fluid evacuator or extractor. You can pump out the oil by simply inserting a small tube down the oil dip-stick fill tube and pumping out the old oil. No fussing with jacking up the snowblower and removing wheels. Just pump out the oil into the evacuator tank, replace with fresh oil, then dump (or pump) the old oil from the evacuator tank into your oil recycle container. Best part... NO MESS. I havn't had to buy a bag of Speedy Dry in 4 years. I have the Mityvac-7201 Great tool, especially if you do a lot of automotive work like changing oil, transmission fluid, brake fluid, etc. I do all my own small engine and automotive maintenance, so this fluid evacuator has more than paid for itself. I know they also make a fluid extractor dedicated to small engines that cost about $40.00, but I can't speak to the quality or effectiveness of that product. However, the Mityvac is a professional grade tool. There's even a Youtube video by donyboy73 reviewing the Mityvac???





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Last edited by Freezn; 03-16-2014 at 09:39 AM.
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post #9 of 35 Old 03-16-2014, 09:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enigma-2 View Post
Anyway, what I'm really looking for is the size of the oil drain pipe and thread spacing. I believe it's 12mm x1.5mm thread or 14 mm x 1.5 mm thread, but I'm just not certain. Do you have any idea what it is?
Quote:
Originally Posted by enigma-2 View Post
But Ed, are you saying that the standard LCT drain plug "is" magnetized? Ariens part number 125704 that sells for less than $3?
This one?


That's quite a surprise, I never realized that. Quite a bargain for $3. I would have expected a nickle-plated steel plug with a magnet insert to sell for considerably more.
I just added magnetized plug as something to think about. If it is a concern for some, after you drain the oil I guess you could run a magnet around to see how much metal you are picking up. If you have an excessive amount of metal you will see it anyway.

Wherever you found the above plug you pictured, do they have the measurements your looking for listed with it?

As far as them being held liable for damage incurred from the plug failing, I am sure they have that covered so they are not held accountable.
Read the fine print I bet it is there somewhere.

If it makes life easier for you, I say go for it.

I hate shoveling SNOW!
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5 Horse, Tecumseh HSSK50-67392S
22" Dual Stage
***********************
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4 Horse (orig) Briggs & Stratton#6305201
22" Dual Stage
***********************
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post #10 of 35 Old 03-16-2014, 01:17 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Ed View Post
Wherever you found the above plug you pictured, do they have the measurements your looking for listed with it?
Pulled it from JacksSmallEngines.com. Listed as a 12 mm x 1.5 mm thread. At this point I believe that the drain pipe is 14 mm x 1.5 mm thread.
When I do figure all this out I'll post a pix here. (If I can figure out how to post a picture.) <g>

2014 Ariens 24" Platinum
2010 Yard Machines 600 Series, 24" w/179cc MTD engine
Toro CCR 3650 GTS
Troy Bilt 521OR w/Tecu HSSK50 engine
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