Stuck Clutch, can't shift 1968 10M6d - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 39 Old 02-08-2015, 06:48 PM Thread Starter
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Stuck Clutch, can't shift 1968 10M6d

Hi All,

I have a 1968 10M6D. In this model year, it defaults to drive and you pull in the clutch lever in order to stop it and shift. It had started to get difficult to shift into different gears, and now the clutch lever won't move at all.

A picture is attached and it is similar to ones at Scotty's site in the 10,000 model range. The clutch lever is connected to a clutch rod that connects to a ball joint than into a throwout lever. This picture shows how the clutch rod connects. I am just reading from the manual some parts names and how they are connected. I am not sure how the mechanism works. I'm assuming that pulling the clutch lever lifts the friction wheel off the drive wheel, which enables you to move the shift lever, which slides the friction wheel left or right.

My problem is that the clutch lever won't move anymore, I can squeeze as hard as I can, and the clutch rod just tenses but doesn't move. Hence, the friction wheel won't move and can't shift it.

I am not sure where to start troubleshooting. Judicious tapping with a hammer here and there did nothing.
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post #2 of 39 Old 02-08-2015, 07:06 PM
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Since you said the problem has been getting worse to the point where it doesn't move now, I'm going to say you prob have some lubrication issues (crud build up) on the sliding parts within the drive carrier assembly. I would flip the machine up on the bucket, drop the belly pan and start to clean everything inside, then re-lube with some marine grade bearing/axle grease where parts contact each other.

Ray
1962 Ariens 10ML60
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post #3 of 39 Old 02-08-2015, 11:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ashwinearl View Post
Hi All,

I have a 1968 10M6D. In this model year, it defaults to drive and you pull in the clutch lever in order to stop it and shift. It had started to get difficult to shift into different gears, and now the clutch lever won't move at all.
Here's a pic of my '65 10md6 before I replaced the friction disc (which is another story). The clutch is a simple, sping-loaded lever (kinda hidden up in left side of pic) that pivots the disc bracket up and away. Can't think of much binding it except the throw-out bearing for the disc is really crapped up inside its housing, not letting the disc bracket rotate away from the shifter slide rod/pin (across the top of the pic). Once you open it up it'll make sense. Be careful spraying lube in there. I had the shifter slide freeze up, got ticked off, sprayed WD40 every where through the shift rod opening and got the drive plate all wet! Good luck and report back!
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post #4 of 39 Old 02-09-2015, 02:17 AM Thread Starter
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that pivots the disc bracket up and away. Can't think of much binding it except the throw-out bearing for the disc is really crapped up inside its housing, not letting the disc bracket rotate away from the shifter slide rod/pin (across the top of the pic).
yes mine looks similar. The disc bracket is not rotating. I couldn't figure out what path it is supposed to move on to rotate out of the way.

One thing I noticed, is if you look in the picture in my first post, it was taken a few months ago. The rod that is part of the throwout lever is sitting in the middle of the slot, not touching any sides.

Right now that rod is all the way forward in a little indent that looks to have been worn into the housing.

Here is the parts breakdown. I tried to upload the manual but it was too big If you can suggest part numbers to focus lubrication on that would help a lot.

Last edited by ashwinearl; 02-09-2015 at 02:22 AM.
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post #5 of 39 Old 02-09-2015, 07:15 AM
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Earl,
Have you tried adjustments to the clutch rod itself? From yor photo, it looks like the rod end can be tightened some. Also, as Ray noted, dirt free and lubed are keys to smooth operation on these mechanisms. MH

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post #6 of 39 Old 02-09-2015, 08:47 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by motorhead64 View Post
Earl,
Have you tried adjustments to the clutch rod itself? From yor photo, it looks like the rod end can be tightened some. Also, as Ray noted, dirt free and lubed are keys to smooth operation on these mechanisms. MH
So adjustments would include tightening the ball joint to take u some of the 'slack' in the adjustment rod


Dumb question. Can I stand it on the bucket with the engine on it and filled with gas?
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post #7 of 39 Old 02-09-2015, 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by ashwinearl View Post
Dumb question. Can I stand it on the bucket with the engine on it and filled with gas?
You can if you are careful. Make sure the oil cap is on tight so oil doesn't leak everywhere. Preferable to have a fuel shut off and burn the gas out of the carb first so that doesn't leak. Also helpful to have the fuel tank less than half full so the fuel level is lower than the vent in the tank cap. I have heard of people pulling the cap off and putting something like a plastic bag under the cap to make a temporary gasket.

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post #8 of 39 Old 02-09-2015, 10:24 AM Thread Starter
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I think there is something wrong with drive gearing too. Should the wheels be able to spin freely where I can roll it forward and backwards. With the differential lock pulled out, the wheels can rotate in opposite directions, but both won't move forward or back at the same time.

The friction disc is in the middle of the drive wheel and the drive clutch lever is disengaged.
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post #9 of 39 Old 02-09-2015, 10:44 AM
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Earl..
Something you may want to check that can jam up on these older Ariens...under the belt cover is a large spring loaded clutch dog that engages with a similar engine driven dog when you engage the main engagement clutch by the belt guard. Pull the belt cover and make sure it is able to move freely on its shaft. If it is stuck, spray some PB or like lube on it and tap on it with a hammer. When they stick, they cause engagement probs. MH

1960 Ariens 45-10M
1961 Ariens 10M55
1977 Ariens 22000
1972 Ariens 10000
1990 Ariens ST724
1987 Toro 724
Murray Ultra 522
MTD Single stage
8 hp MTD hybrid plow
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post #10 of 39 Old 02-09-2015, 10:50 AM
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Sounds like you need to get in there and free some things up. Possible your drive disc is out of adjustment or stuck on the sliding shaft and/or the differential is gummed up. Drain the gas from you tank, flip the machine up and take a pic of what it looks like in there.

Ray
1962 Ariens 10ML60
1979 Toro 524
1975 MTD Snowflite 4/22

Last edited by Ray 1962 10ML60; 02-09-2015 at 10:56 AM.
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