need connecting rod advice I ruined my 1128 tecumseh - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 37 Old 02-15-2015, 11:28 PM Thread Starter
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need connecting rod advice I ruined my 1128 tecumseh

Hello,

I came across this forum recently to find a cure for some ills with my machine and did some maintenance.

In a fit of pure stupidity, I ruined the engine. I need to replace the connecting rod, and possibly related parts within a couple days. I changed oil and did not put enough in.

Will I need more than a connecting rod? I was throwing snow after I warmed it up first as always a couple minutes, and was doing light snow first till it was warm.

It stopped with a light ping, and i thought it was the newspaper in my driveway again, which was there.

With low oil, do you think I just need a rod? Any bearings involved? Did rings starve too?

So advice on what parts to overnight or pick up tomorrow, the crankcase that i can see looks ok.

Any special tools to remove flywheel?

I need to fix it before storm wednesday, so looking for advice on my plans:

I need to call around town tomorrow if connecting rod part #36897 is available. I looked at my amazon Prime account, but nothing listed. Can i weld it with a flux core welder?

All model numbers and details listed below



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Details:

Looking for parts pickup in southern Maine or overnight shipping.

I have tools and experience long ago with rebuilding my '64 Corvair Turbo Spyder in 1970, a couple VW bus '61 era along with maintaining 20+ year old vehicles just to show my background.

I'm also in the Open Bench Project hackerspace in S. Portland, so have welding and other tools.

Ariens model st1128le
Tecumseh OHSK110-221735D This is on the engine sticker, and also in an insert to the instruction manual saying they had used a 11.5 hp engine vs the 11 hp one in the manual.
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Sob Story:
I needed to assure myself the machine would not fail, as I am not supposed to shovel at my age.

After solving some traction drive problems with a couple drops of zoom spout oil on the drive disk shaft to prevent cold weather no drive, I buttoned it up. I had put a new friction disc and loveingly refurbed it last year.

In this forum I spent hours reading the debate wether to use synthetic or din oil, etc, and bought a quart of 10w-30 mobile 1.

Why? I really wanted to keep this machine new, I touch up paint, etc.

With the failed blizzard predicted for yesterday, i decided to put in a new bottle of dino 5-30, (not sure of using 10-30 synth) having used it for 12+ years, and not wanting to try something new during a blizzard.

In my recent readings I saw my engine took less oil than others, so when pouring it in I stopped when I thought half the bottle was in and was going to go by the dipstick a little at a time.

I pulled the dipstick, and it showed a hair over full. My recently cataract operated eyes were watering, and oil from the fill tube was running down the dipstick sides, so I left it for the blizzard.

Day of the non-blizzard, but plenty of drifts, I checked the dipstick first thing, it showed just a hair over the full mark.

Dipstick has a color or stain over the hashmarks, I thought it was full, but it was not. SO STUPID! be sure your eyes rag, etc show liquid oil on the stick, it was really dry as a bone. Maybe another oz or so would have shown a wet mark at the bottom… SOB!

Last edited by jh15; 02-15-2015 at 11:32 PM. Reason: More stuff
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post #2 of 37 Old 02-15-2015, 11:55 PM
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I would look for a Harbor freight and pick up a 420cc Predator along with a 20% off coupon. It will be a huge upgrade in power and reliability over that old Tecumseh L-Head and it has battery electric start too. You will need a small ATV 12 volt battery to run the electric start. Sounds like you can turn a wrench so that is what I would do. Is the engine a dual shaft or single shaft engine? If single shaft it is a drop in easy replacement. If it is a dual shaft you have to make some modifications for it to work.
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post #3 of 37 Old 02-16-2015, 12:06 AM Thread Starter
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I did pick up a HF 301cc 9 minutes before closing, thinking I could get a 99.00 engine, but this one was 230 something, no coupon allowed unless with extended service plan. i bought it. I eyeballed the one you said at 400+.

My tecumseh is the overhead valve and always started on the first pull, even after summer storage. Never used the electric start. Deepest snow, it never changed RPM, I loved it. SOB!

If the one you say is a simple drop-in i will get it tomorrow, else I will look for a rod.

It has only one shaft output, two belts run off it. Maybe you were thinking of older 2 shaft stuff I also read about here.

Thanks for quick reply, I will get even helping others here as I've done on car forums for the younger folks.

Last edited by jh15; 02-16-2015 at 12:07 AM. Reason: spelling
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post #4 of 37 Old 02-16-2015, 12:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jh15 View Post
I did pick up a HF 301cc 9 minutes before closing, thinking I could get a 99.00 engine, but this one was 230 something, no coupon allowed unless with extended service plan. i bought it. I eyeballed the one you said at 400+.

My tecumseh is the overhead valve and always started on the first pull, even after summer storage. Never used the electric start. Deepest snow, it never changed RPM, I loved it. SOB!

If the one you say is a simple drop-in i will get it tomorrow, else I will look for a rod.

It has only one shaft output, two belts run off it. Maybe you were thinking of older 2 shaft stuff I also read about here.

Thanks for quick reply, I will get even helping others here as I've done on car forums for the younger folks.
I have heard that the 301cc engines make really good power. I have heard of people using these engines to repower larger blowers. The Predator 212cc can handle up to a 26 inch bucket and I would know because my Repowered Montgomery Ward 8/26 (Gilson) works well with the Predator 212cc. The 301cc should compare very well to the original engines power output and should be just as easy to start or even easier to start then the OHV Tecumseh which often had buggy compression release mechanisms. Post a few pictures and a video of your repowered Ariens in action once you get it up and running.
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post #5 of 37 Old 02-16-2015, 12:25 AM Thread Starter
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I'm tired now, but i recall i think the shaft size and height are different when looking at the Predator 301 manual, otherwise I might have started on it tonight.


I think my predator 301 is 1.3" and my tecumseh is 1 inch.

I was planning on youtubing my efforts replacing the rod, as I was emboldened by watching a 2 part youtube on re-rodding a tecumseh, maybe without needing to behead it first as i was going to do per manual.

I'll credit the link when i can
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post #6 of 37 Old 02-16-2015, 01:24 AM
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Quote:
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I'm tired now, but i recall i think the shaft size and height are different when looking at the Predator 301 manual, otherwise I might have started on it tonight.


I think my predator 301 is 1.3" and my tecumseh is 1 inch.

I was planning on youtubing my efforts replacing the rod, as I was emboldened by watching a 2 part youtube on re-rodding a tecumseh, maybe without needing to behead it first as i was going to do per manual.

I'll credit the link when i can
The 301cc is 1" shaft by apprix 3.5 Must be rejetted properly to develop the power and run well in the cold, and shrouds should be made. Running any of these lean with factory jetting in the cold will not make you happy, and not be great for the engine either . Open up both the main and pilot jets slightly and you will be a happy camper without surging, ect. I am very happy with mine but spent some time on it, but it paid off. Good luck whichever route you take. I *think* the 420cc is also 1"shaft but don't quote me check yourself to make sure.

BTW, I bought it for 239 and used the coupon, which brought it down to 192. I just handed the coupon to the checkout person and they took it. 20%. Early January. Did they change the policy in the last month ?

The meltdown is under way ...
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91' Toro Powershift 824/Predator 301cc
05' Toro 3650/ 6.5 RTek

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post #7 of 37 Old 02-16-2015, 02:06 AM
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HF is the quickest route to go if you need it running in a few days...Any TEC with internal damage needs to be looked over carefully, avoid a slap together job or you'll be sorry
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post #8 of 37 Old 02-16-2015, 02:17 AM
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Welcome to SBF jh15!

So sorry for the loss of a good engine! You're really between a rock & a hard place considering these weather patterns.

You won't know the extent of the damage until you crack her open. There aren't any bearings...just the rod riding on the crank. Best case you're only out a rod...which can be had for ~ 45 bucks. The risk as you're aware that there's also damage to the rings/bore & crank...then the cost starts approaching/exceeding that of a new clone motor...and you're down for possibly weeks waiting for parts.

Repower & keep the Tecumseh as a side project?


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post #9 of 37 Old 02-16-2015, 07:18 AM
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Pull it apart and take a look at it, usually the rod punches a hole in the side of the block behind the electric starter, occasionally you get lucky and it doesn't. Sometimes it cracks up into the cylinder or the sump cover, in these cases the engine is ruined. If it's just a hole in the middle of the block it can be patched with some fine wire mesh and JB Weld. You'll need to clean up the crank journal where the old rod transferred aluminum to the cast iron journal. Do this with some sand paper or emery cloth, finish with something super fine. Then replace the rod.
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post #10 of 37 Old 02-16-2015, 08:11 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for replies. In bed with cold will check for hole, if none try to get rod locally, see if my In-hand 301cc or other predator will fit first just in case.

Are jets adjustable? Don't want to void extended warranty.

Will the little 99 dollar engine, 212cc work ok?

I never used the 120v starter, but I may rig up a bicycle light and battery pack for the heated handles later.

To minimise cold exposure any others welcome to chip in.

I can't find height or diameter of my 11.5hp ohsk110 output shaft in manual.
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