Compression on the old 6/7 hp 10,000 series - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 62 Old 03-05-2015, 08:27 AM Thread Starter
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Compression on the old 6/7 hp 10,000 series

So I have two old blowers that run pretty well. However they have almost no compression. one is 60 lbs the other like 75#'s. My dealer told me that they were designed for leaded gas and since there is no lead now to add a little 2 stroke oil to lubricate the top end. Ive been running them on 100/1 synthetic 93 octane. Will a valve job increase me compression and running reliablility? How hard is it? I have never oped up one of the but I do rebuild chainsaws from the cases up. Any thoughts of wisdom. They do die in the heavy snow and I want to power through that crap. The one with the lower compression actually runs better than the higher one but I have to keep playing with the carb on the bigger one to keep it running sometimes. They also both burn a dipstick oil on every tank from full to add. Thanks for the help!!!!
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post #2 of 62 Old 03-05-2015, 08:34 AM
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Have you tried checking the valve clearance? That's a very easy first step.

There's a manual here that shows you how to do it: http://www.asos1.com/tecumseh4hp/Tecumseh.pdf

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post #3 of 62 Old 03-05-2015, 08:36 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks!!

Awesome!!! I cant wait to dig into it!
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post #4 of 62 Old 03-05-2015, 08:43 AM
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put a predator 212cc on them and be done with them. those engines are not worth fixing beyond carburetor issues, you will spend a lot of time repairing internal issues
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post #5 of 62 Old 03-05-2015, 08:57 AM Thread Starter
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??

So if I'm reading this right the valve clearance should be .oo4 to .008 at TDC?
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post #6 of 62 Old 03-05-2015, 09:21 AM
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If that's an H60, specs are 0.008" to 0.012".

lap the valves and throw-on a new head gasket and it will run like new. It's definitely worth the minimal effort/expense that it requires. I've done 4 (soon to be 5) L-heads this winter.

While you're ordering you may also need breather gaskets & the intake-pipe gasket as well.


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post #7 of 62 Old 03-05-2015, 09:24 AM Thread Starter
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What is "lapping the valves"? Also I dont see anyway to adjust "valve lash", easy to do on a car, but I dont see anyway to adjust. Thanks!!
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post #8 of 62 Old 03-05-2015, 09:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Redliner67 View Post
What is "lapping the valves"? Also I dont see anyway to adjust "valve lash", easy to do on a car, but I dont see anyway to adjust. Thanks!!
Ah, there are a few youtube videos on it...very simple.

Grab a lapping tool...basically a dowel-rod with 2 different sized suction cups on each-end...you want the small one. And grab some lapping compound. Remove the valve, smear some lapping compound on the valve-seat area of the valve...being careful not to get any on the valve stem (or anywhere near the cylinder/piston!) then spin the valve with the lapping tool like you're trying to start a fire. It's important to clean-off all of the lapping compound when you've finished...I try to get as much of it up with dry rags as possible, then use a solvent on a rag to remove the remaining.

If you don't have enough valve clearance, you may need to remove some material from the bottom of the valve stem before lapping. I always adjust clearance 1st (I use emery paper and cutting oil) and shoot for +0.001" above the middle of the spec range (so for 0.008-0.012, I shoot for 0.011...then lap to 0.010").


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post #9 of 62 Old 03-05-2015, 10:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redliner67 View Post
So I have two old blowers that run pretty well. However they have almost no compression. one is 60 lbs the other like 75#'s. .....
The one with the lower compression actually runs better than the higher one but I have to keep playing with the carb on the bigger one to keep it running sometimes. They also both burn a dipstick oil on every tank from full to add. Thanks for the help!!!!
Based upon the very high oil consumption your engines are worn out. The worn piston rings are likely the cause of low compression and poor engine performance. You can check this by putting a little engine oil into the spark plug hole to temporarily seal the piston and checking the compression.

Also check for oil at the crankcase breather pipe. A worn engine will allow engine combustion pressure to leak past the worn cylinder bore, piston and rings to pressurize the crankcase. This blow-by will force oil out the breather and lead to high oil consumption.

You will probably need to rebuild the engines or re-power with new engines.

Good luck.

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post #10 of 62 Old 03-05-2015, 12:54 PM
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I would not try to adjust the valve clearance and definitely do not try to lap the valves if you are not an experienced mechanic with the knowledge and experience working on 4-stroke motors. I cant tell you how many times I have seen engines ruined or had to fix backyard cowboys eff ups during my many years as a professional mechanic. Let someone fix it who knows what they are doing and is confident at it or just order a new engine.
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