Picked up an old 910019 (1973/1974) - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 55 Old 07-22-2015, 09:47 PM Thread Starter
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Picked up an old 910019 (1973/1974)

I've been wanting to get a full-sized blower of this vintage with a differential transmission for some time now. Local guy was selling a 910019 along with a 35-10m mower attachment. The blower itself is in good condition, despite having been outside for the past 2 years. Nothing looks rotted away and all the rust appears to be surface rust. I was not able to test the original 6hp tecumseh engine because the recoil needs a new starter dog, but the owner said it had compression last time he checked. After some negotiating, I was able to bring the blower and the mower attachment home for $40.

Here are some pics:












Not too much rust on the bottom, where my ST504 is rotting away. I think the scraper bar is in decent shape. What about the corners? Anything to worry about there?





Belt is in pretty sad shape. Will definitely replace. Anyone know what size?




One thing I noticed is a small 2-3" tear along the circular seam on the left side of the bucket. I think I might have accidentally caused this in transport (as I had to detach and load the bucket separately in my sedan. I may have accidentally picked it up by the shaft). If so, silly me. I'll just assume it was already like that. Here are inside and outside pics of the crack:





Any suggestions on what to do about this? Simple JBweld on the inside? Or should I detach the auger assembly and bring the blower to a shop to weld it? I'm disappointed about this crack, as the circular seam seems to be a weak spot in an otherwise heavy-duty bucket. Funny thing: This type of bucket looks like those on the 75-78 models, as pre 75 buckets are usually the "flat with racing stripes" design. Yet mine says model no 910017, which according to Scot's site accurately dates it with the tractor at 73-74. Interesting.



How does the differential lock work? I pulled the pin out toward me and moved the marker from in to out and vice versa, but it doesn't seem to make any difference. The wheels will not lock. Does something need to be oiled?

On to the engine: Since it hasn't been started in 2+ years, I want to be really careful here after I fix the recoil. What should I look to do? A little oil in the spark plug hole? Naturally I'll change the oil and drain the fuel. Anything else I should to do be safe here?


Any other suggestions on where to go here? I'm pretty excited to have a machine like this. I'm very mechanically inclined, however it's mostly automotive stuff. I've rebuilt a carb on a Tecumseh before, but haven't done much with small engines and snowblowers. I really want to get into it and this seems like a good machine to play with. I'll be replacing the friction disk. Any other standard "tuneup" items? Further "rebuilding" type items? I'm not looking to flip this. This will be my primary machine (unless I find a nice 924039 some day).

Also, here's a pic of the mower attachment. Haven't decided what I'm gonna do with this yet:




Thanks in advance!
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post #2 of 55 Old 07-22-2015, 11:07 PM
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I can't imagine that cracking just by picking it up by the shaft. Those shafts and mounts are super strong. I am sure I have picked mine up that way before. I wonder if the augers are rusted to the shafts and someone sucked something in there.

Not sure on the belt, but the parts manual should give you the Ariens number which should be easy to cross over. Found this link quickly, but didn't do any actual research to see if it is actually correct for you.
https://www.ombwarehouse.com/Ariens-...-x-35-1-2.html

On my 78 and 80s 924xxx machines the lock has a pin on the back side. Pulled out is unlocked and pushed in pushes the pin into 1 of 3 holes on the hub behind the rim There is a spring to push it in and a little ledge to hook onto when you spin it to "off". Either the pin is broken, the holes are plugged up, the shaft is a little rusty and the spring isn't pushing it in all the way. Usually you have to give the handlebars a little twist side to side for it to find one of the holes and snap in.

Check all the bearings for play as well as the auger bushings. Axle and outer auger shaft are the most worn usually. The jackshaft inside might need new bushings too. Check the oil in the front gearcase. Make sure the augers spin on the shafts with the bolts removed. Make sure those bolts are actual shear bolts.

Grease everything up real well when you are done.

Consider investing another $40 -$50 in a nice set of X-Trac or Snow Hog tires for better traction.

Also consider finding a used 1 gallon tank and swapping it with that half gallon tank. You might like the extra capacity and the larger tank should sit right on the same mounts with no modifications.

If you end up with engine issues you could go the $99 Predator route as well.

It looks like 910019 is suppose to be 8 HP? Maybe someone has changed the engine already.

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Last edited by Shryp; 07-22-2015 at 11:11 PM.
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post #3 of 55 Old 07-22-2015, 11:59 PM Thread Starter
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I checked to make sure the augers wiggle on the shaft so they're not frozen. I wonder what caused that crack? Any suggestions on what to do about it?

Thanks for the link to the belt. It seem they also have the wrong model # for 8hp. According to Scot's site, 910019 is the 6hp model and 910018 is the hp model, but some references (like the link) have those crossed up. I'd be surprised if my 6hp isn't original.

I'll have to check to see if the differential pin is connected to anything that's rusty. That wouldn't surprise me - every lever and switch needed some elbow grease to get moving. After all, it was outside for 2 years. Any suggestions on what to use to oil all these sticky parts on the machine (3-in-one, motor oil, etc.)?

What's the best way to check for play in the bearings? I pulled the shaft toward and away from me. Seems reasonably firm, but I'm not sure what they're supposed to feel like.

What type of grease should be used? I'm guessing these shafts have standard zerk fittings?

What should I be looking for with the gear case oil? fluid level? Eyeball the color of the fluid?

I like the idea of investing in the X-trac or snow hogs. Are they much better than picking up a set of chains for the existing tires? Predator engine is always tempting, but I'd like to keep a Tecumseh on there as long as it's fiscally reasonable.

I pulled off the recoil starter and it looks like it's all cracked inside. Fortunately my ST504 has the same starter and I swapped it on. I couldn't get it to crank and thought it might be seized, but I removed the spark plug and got it to budge. After a full pulls it felt fine. I put the plug back on and confirmed I definitely have compression. Tomorrow I'll change the oil, drain the gunky gas in the tank and see if she starts up. Carb looks terrible, so I don't have high expectations.
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post #4 of 55 Old 07-23-2015, 12:27 AM
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where are you located, i would definetly be interested in the mower attachment, as i have been looking for one for a while. very hard to find and expensive when you do find them
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post #5 of 55 Old 07-23-2015, 01:18 AM
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Smile

I just picked up a 922003 20 inch bucket 5 hp Tecumseh . I believe its a 1974 or 75 model. It was also sitting outside for a couple of yrs so I think I am in the same boat as you in regards to trying to figure what works and what doesn't. Do you know what type of carbs these have? Mine will run for a few seconds if I pour gas down the spark plug . I'm going to try to get in running tomorrow. Good luck with yours!

Ariens deluxe 28
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ariens self propelled mower
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post #6 of 55 Old 07-25-2015, 07:00 PM Thread Starter
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@43128: Eastern PA, but I regularly find myself in NY. I haven't yet decided what I'm doing with the mower attachment (restore and use, or sell).

@loneraider: I saw your thread. Nice find. Looks like it's the earlier version of my ST504. I, too, have the odd 5hp dual shaft engine on that machine. Not sure what time of carbs they have.


As for the 910019: I replaced the fuel line and removed/cleaned the fuel tank. Lots of varnish. I cleaned as much of the carb as I could without removing the bowl (as the gasket will likely need to be replaced), but I'm not tearing further into it yet until I solve another problem: No spark. Replaced the plug, no change. These older machines don't have a key, but is there anything else that cuts off the ignition? I can't see anything inside the tractor that would kill it. Wire from inside the engine just hooks up to a metal piece near the carb. What kind of ignition system does this old H60 engine have? I'm hoping to look further, but I have a stripped rusted bolt on top of the engine that prevents me from opening it. Gonna have to try to dremel a slot and/or JBweld a socket on top of it to help remove it.


Can anyone comment on what to do about the crack in the housing that I showed in my top post? JBweld? Have it welded?


I've been trying to free up any moving linkages and was wondering what most people use. I've used WD-40 on some parts, but it's not really a lubricant. I also have spray lithium grease for the tighter areas, and mobil 1 synthetic grease for areas I can get to with my finger. Does the grease type matter?

On that subject, the manual says to use Ariens Moly Lithium grease on the transmission gears, shifter shaft, etc. Is the mobil 1 synthetic grease an acceptable substitute? Is the moly grease also the type of grease to shoot into the zerk fittings?

Thanks in advance.
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post #7 of 55 Old 07-25-2015, 10:13 PM
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any lithium grease besides spray is acceptable. you must use lithium because in the cold weather the grease will become hard and stiff and make everything operate rougher
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post #8 of 55 Old 07-26-2015, 03:27 AM
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The old engines used points. They probably need sanded down a little to clean to crud off of them from sitting.

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post #9 of 55 Old 07-27-2015, 05:14 PM Thread Starter
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After fighting some rusted bolts and rounded heads, I finally dug deep enough to check the points. They seem really clean. Anything seem amiss here?



The first thing that stood out to me was the frayed black wire. I will certainly tape that up, however it's not evident that it was grounding out anywhere.

Before I close everything up, does anything else seem obvious?
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post #10 of 55 Old 07-27-2015, 05:43 PM
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a lot of rust more then normal, i would check your coil and make sure the stacked steel isnt separating from all the rust, and i would replace the condenser to. if you end up needing a coil i have a bin full of used coils and have a few good tecumseh ones i could send you
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