Friction drive disc replacement ... - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 12 Old 11-21-2015, 07:55 AM Thread Starter
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Friction drive disc replacement ...

Hi,

I have not been able to locate good detailed instructions (pictures would really be a plus, ) on the replacement of the friction drive wheel on my older Ariens 10M4 series Sno Thro. I am mechanically inclined, and do all my repairs, including engine replacements. I am assuming on replacing this disc, that just about everything in the gear housing has to be dismantled in order to remove the friction disc. It appears that in newer models, they have corrected this issue, by leaving one end of the hex shaft (friction disc shaft) open for easy replacement. Unless I am missing something here, I guess I can expect to fully dismantle the inner workings in order to replace this disc. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks

(footnote) It also appears to me that removing the engine, and taking the front auger drum off would allow for easy access to the inner workings by just laying it upside down .

Last edited by oneacer; 11-21-2015 at 08:32 AM. Reason: additional info ..
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post #2 of 12 Old 11-21-2015, 08:53 AM
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You Should be able to tip the machine forward to work inside the chassis; sometimes you need some blocks or other support if you have the half bucket. That Friction wheel Will take some time. If you are mechanically inclined, it IS do-able, just take Your Time, and use Your Mechanical Sense.
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post #3 of 12 Old 11-21-2015, 09:53 AM
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This may help you


This fellow Canadian donyboy73 has a youtube channel you can subscribe to, it is very helpful.

Hope this helps
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post #4 of 12 Old 11-21-2015, 10:49 AM
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Agreed, this is not that bad a job and as a wear item is pretty accessible by tipping the whole machine forward against a garage wall or similar.Four bolts hold on an easily removable plate. Two come out and two just loosen and keyhole off. The friction disc is very obvious with easy on and off. Just keep the grease off it and clean it good after installing a new one to be sure there is no grease on it from the installation. It a greasy environment in there except for the drive disc and plate.

Two consideration before tipping, minimal gas in the tank to avoid spillage when tipped up. And I'm not 100% sure if the oil needs to be drained. I don't believe its a requirement though. Someone can comment on that.
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post #5 of 12 Old 11-21-2015, 10:52 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Ron and Nervous, but this is an older unit, not one of the easy slide off newer type, unfortunately. My unit requires a complete dismantle to get the friction disc off, unlike the newer ones that slide off the end without a dismantle.
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post #6 of 12 Old 11-21-2015, 12:01 PM
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post #7 of 12 Old 11-27-2015, 09:55 PM Thread Starter
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UPDATE: Well, this morning the weather was nice, so I tackled the job. Removed the engine, took the front half (scoop) off, flipped it over and started to dismantle the pins, rods and chain in the drive mechanism within the frame housing. It would have been a little easier if the friction disc bracket lower rod had not been rusted together. All I did to get around that was to remove one wheel and pry the frame out slightly to get the entire lower rod out of its holes in the frame housing. Everything actually went well in the dismantle and reassembly, just allow yourself enough time. Machine back up and running great. Replaced a wheel woodruff key as well while I was at it, and gave it a cleaning and grease job in the gear housing.
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post #8 of 12 Old 11-28-2015, 10:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oneacer View Post
UPDATE: Well, this morning the weather was nice, so I tackled the job. Removed the engine, took the front half (scoop) off, flipped it over and started to dismantle the pins, rods and chain in the drive mechanism within the frame housing. It would have been a little easier if the friction disc bracket lower rod had not been rusted together. All I did to get around that was to remove one wheel and pry the frame out slightly to get the entire lower rod out of its holes in the frame housing. Everything actually went well in the dismantle and reassembly, just allow yourself enough time. Machine back up and running great. Replaced a wheel woodruff key as well while I was at it, and gave it a cleaning and grease job in the gear housing.
I guess it is too late to see a photo of the drive train to see what was different?
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post #9 of 12 Old 11-28-2015, 11:29 AM Thread Starter
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I attached some photos after I had changed out the disc and put it back together. But you can see, my 10M4 model has a closed in Hex shaft on both ends, which had to be removed entirely to change out the disc and install new one..

Last edited by oneacer; 11-28-2015 at 11:39 AM. Reason: photos did not upload
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post #10 of 12 Old 11-28-2015, 11:38 AM Thread Starter
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Here are the photos .......

Last edited by oneacer; 01-20-2020 at 02:53 PM.
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