No Spark, all new parts too - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 14 Old 11-28-2015, 02:15 PM Thread Starter
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No Spark, all new parts too

I've got a 40+ year old Ariens Sno-throw snowblower with a 7 HP Tecumseh H70 engine and last year it had no spark. Replaced the coil, fixed and ran great.
Pulled it out of storage this year, again no spark.
Checked kill switch (OK) but checked with it disconnected, no change.
Ohmed new coil, was OK but replaced it again anyway. Replaced points and condensor, gapped at .020", still no spark.
Magnets on flywheel are built into piece bolted to inside of flywheel so they can't fall off.
Any other ideas?
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post #2 of 14 Old 11-28-2015, 02:24 PM
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Key to on.
Pull a plug out of any running small engine you have in the garage, plug it in the wire and try it against the block for spark. Still no spark, pull the two leads off the key switch and try again.
If you have the deadman handle on the right side, sometimes they can hang up inside the tractor assembly and the switch won't function (mouse nest, bird nest).

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post #3 of 14 Old 11-28-2015, 03:49 PM
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post #4 of 14 Old 11-28-2015, 04:25 PM
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Welcome to the forum Joaklay

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Make sure the windows are up before the snow plow goes by !!

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post #5 of 14 Old 11-28-2015, 04:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joaklay View Post
I've got a 40+ year old Ariens Sno-throw snowblower with a 7 HP Tecumseh H70 engine and last year it had no spark. Replaced the coil, fixed and ran great.
Pulled it out of storage this year, again no spark.
Checked kill switch (OK) but checked with it disconnected, no change.
Ohmed new coil, was OK but replaced it again anyway. Replaced points and condensor, gapped at .020", still no spark.
Magnets on flywheel are built into piece bolted to inside of flywheel so they can't fall off.
Any other ideas?

You didn't mention if you had tried a new plug. Did you check for spark using the spark plug grounded on the engine in a darkened area. Take a close look at points and condenser, make sure nothing is grounded in there. Also, make sure the points are actually closing when they come off the high point on the cam. There was post last week about a set of points that were misaligned and did not close properly, hence, no spark. Use your ohmmeter to verify they close, just in case.

Check both wires to kill switch / key interlock with ohmmeter. One wire from each should go to ground the other from each should NOT go to ground when the key is ON and/or the kill switch is in the run position.

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Last edited by skutflut; 11-28-2015 at 05:10 PM.
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post #6 of 14 Old 11-28-2015, 05:15 PM
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clean those points, then clean them again.

24 " 1967? Ariens Sno thro
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post #7 of 14 Old 11-28-2015, 05:42 PM
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clean those points, then clean them again.
+1 on the points cleaning. Try a different plug first as J.Tclays and a couple others pointed out.

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post #8 of 14 Old 11-30-2015, 10:48 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the replies but.....
Is a '72ish vintage, has no key and is shut off by the kill switch when throttle is closed. Not only does that test good but I've removed it's wire to the points terminal just to be sure it wasn't grounding.
The points are new and close, tested with ohm meter too.
As for trying another plug, I was using a spark tester but have now tried it by holding the coil wire just off the top of the head bolts, nothing.
Magnets work, checked with screwdriver, key is on crank.
Ohmed new coil compared to other one year coil using info found from another site, within specs.
Coil primary leads, short one grounds where condenser is bolted, other lead goes to points terminal. Ground wire is grounding, checked with ohm meter.
Very simple setup so I can't understand why I don't have spark.
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post #9 of 14 Old 12-01-2015, 06:07 AM
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Make sure that when you check the points, that the resistance across them when they are closed, is ZERO. (Of course, you want the coil and condenser disconnected for this test.) Even one ohm of resistance is too much. Everybody has digital meters these days, but there is nothing like an old, analog meter with a sweeping needle, for this test. You might also check the condenser as best you can. It may be new but probably came from China; so you never know. Connect an ohm meter across the condenser. The needle should rise briefly then go to infinity. Wait a minute, then, hook up again but as a low volts test. It should very briefly read something as the condenser discharges.
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post #10 of 14 Old 12-01-2015, 11:33 AM
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+1 on jackmels and the nova II idea. Never worry about points or gap again...the conversion is very easy.

Ray
1962 Ariens 10ML60
1979 Toro 524
1975 MTD Snowflite 4/22
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