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post #1 of 10 Old 12-05-2015, 01:59 PM Thread Starter
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Starter Switch Housing

Hello, this is my first post on this forum. I've had my 1974 Ariens 924020 for over 10 years now. I've used the plug in starter for the cold starts just because I could. It can start easily by pulling the cord though so I'm not too concerned about trying to get it started the next time it snows.

However, the last few times before it quit working, it was a matter of wiggling the plug until it would turn the starter. Finally when it couldn't start anymore, I took the starter and switch out so I could inspect the switch. You can see in the photo what has happened. The solders have worn off completely from all three prongs and they all sit very loosely when placed into the housing. I'm not sure if there is any way to replace the housing only? The starter works just fine. Any suggestions would be appreciated!

Thanks,

Alex
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post #2 of 10 Old 12-05-2015, 02:05 PM
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did you check PARTSTREE.COM or Ebay.com some1 here might know of a few other places also anyhoo. ALOHA from the paradise city.

Long LIVE THE POWERSHIFT!! MAY IT NEVER RUST IN PEACE!!
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MAHALO!!!!!!!!!
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post #3 of 10 Old 12-05-2015, 02:53 PM
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You could remove the button and just install a male end to the cord. Plug together it turns over, pull apart to stop.





Or drill a hole in the starter button housing for a chunk of cord to stick out and put it back together with the starter button in the housing and 3-6" of cord soldered to the ends of the wires and the new male end on that.

.
Make sure the windows are up before the snow plow goes by !!

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post #4 of 10 Old 12-05-2015, 02:53 PM
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just resolder the wires and epoxy the housing closed
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post #5 of 10 Old 12-05-2015, 03:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Kiss4aFrog View Post
You could remove the button and just install a male end to the cord. Plug together it turns over, pull apart to stop.





Or drill a hole in the starter button housing for a chunk of cord to stick out and put it back together with the starter button in the housing and 3-6" of cord soldered to the ends of the wires and the new male end on that.
I guess that is why they pay you the big bucks around here. because an idiot like me did not think of that 1.

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post #6 of 10 Old 12-05-2015, 05:53 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the suggestions but I was thinking today just what 43128 said. It'll be like new again from the factory if I just get a solder gun and learn to use one. It's time I got one to add to my tool box.
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post #7 of 10 Old 12-05-2015, 08:01 PM
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That's very easily fixed by someone competent with a soldering gun.
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post #8 of 10 Old 12-05-2015, 08:45 PM
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Thanks for the suggestions but I was thinking today just what 43128 said. It'll be like new again from the factory if I just get a solder gun and learn to use one. It's time I got one to add to my tool box.
Make sure you clean the connectors after unsoldering the old wires, with a small file or emery paper to get them back to the shiny solder residue. The holes may need to be reamed out a bit to get the wires through. You don't want to snip off any strands to get them to fit through the holes. Strip the new wire back to clean copper, and use rosin core solder to make the new connections. Helps to twist the strands tightly together, then tin the wire with solder before putting it the terminal. Heat the connection, until the solder flows onto both parts. After soldering, let the connections cool before moving wires. The connections should look shiny and smooth with the wire and connector evenly covered in solder. If they look grainy and dull or there are any cracks or voids where the wire and connector meet, that's called a cold connection and it won't last.

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Last edited by skutflut; 12-05-2015 at 08:55 PM.
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post #9 of 10 Old 12-05-2015, 09:13 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by skutflut View Post
Make sure you clean the connectors after unsoldering the old wires, with a small file or emery paper to get them back to the shiny solder residue. The holes may need to be reamed out a bit to get the wires through. You don't want to snip off any strands to get them to fit through the holes. Strip the new wire back to clean copper, and use rosin core solder to make the new connections. Helps to twist the strands tightly together, then tin the wire with solder before putting it the terminal. Heat the connection, until the solder flows onto both parts. After soldering, let the connections cool before moving wires. The connections should look shiny and smooth with the wire and connector evenly covered in solder. If they look grainy and dull or there are any cracks or voids where the wire and connector meet, that's called a cold connection and it won't last.
Very much appreciated with the soldering tips!
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post #10 of 10 Old 12-06-2015, 11:03 AM
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Very much appreciated with the soldering tips!
No problem. Forgot to mention that you should get a big enough soldering iron to do the job. Weller has a gun, with a light, which is reasonable, and controlled by a trigger, but they can be too hot for some jobs. You can also get a soldering iron kit which plugs in and gets hot until it's unplugged. Ungar makes them. They are cheaper and more precise. They usually come with several interchangeable tips, and a little sponge & tray which you soak in water, so you can wipe the tip clean just before you start heating the connection which keeps slag out of the connection. After cleaning the tip, melt a bit of solder on it to make sure its hot enough, and to help transfer heat to the connection. You want to get the connection done as quickly as possible and not heat the connection for too long to avoid damaging the plastic parts, or having solder creep up the wire under the insulation.

You probably want a 1/8" to 3/16" wide chisel point tip to get enough heat into the connection fast enough so that you can make the connections without melting the insulation on the wires too much. Also get a small spool of rosin core solder (also called electrical or electronic solder) in the smallest gauge you can find. It melts easier into the connection and is less likely to drip blobs where you don't want them, which is anywhere except on the connection at hand.

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Last edited by skutflut; 12-06-2015 at 07:50 PM.
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