Hi. I'm starting my second season with my Ariens Deluxe 24 Electric Start Model 921024. I still consider myself a newbie but loved working with it last year (vs. years of manual shoveling before the purchase).
When I bought it last year, the dealer set it all up for me. This year I've changed the oil for the first time, but can't determine the oil current level. I pull out the oil dip stick, wipe it clean, put it back in, pull out again but it's just oily all over the stick. I see the FULL line on the bottom, but there is no clear delination that I can use to determine the amount in the oil canister of the blower. I remember this being the case last year as well.
As I say, today I emptied the oil compartment completely. Then started putting in oil from a 1 quart bottle. According to my manual this model can hold 20oz.
I put a little over half the bottle in, but really can't tell what's what from
the dip stick.
Any suggestions? Is there something I can buy that will make it clearer?
I'm open to suggestions. I know they say overfilling is almost as bad as under filling.
I had the same on my LCT engine as well....
Mine came with the high fill port, shiny dipstick and low fill port capped...
I ended up doing 2 things.
Removed plugged low port and replaced with a ~dipstick~. Generally though, as long as oil reaches the bottom thread of that, it's full.
As well, took a torch and darkened up the bottom of the bottom of the dipstick.
If you don't want to torch it, maybe take a sharpie to it ?
Holding the unalterated dipstick in bright sunlights helps to see the level as well
Thanks all for the responses. Let me just clarify...read the attached thread as well. But here's the problem. While the dip stick indicatoars of full and such are not bright, that's not really the problem. i can see the FULL tyoe and such. Problem is the oil itself just seems to slather all over the dip stick and I can't tell where it's stopping in relation to FULL or such.
Did I read correctly that on my Ariens Deluxe 24 Electric Start Model 921024 that there is a second oil indicator outside the unit somewhere closer to the value where you empty the oil? if there is, I haven't found it yet.
it should say in your manual how much to add depending on engine size..i have a 306cc and it reccommends 32oz....and yes its pretty hard to see those dipsticks...some of them are really hard to judge...i like having an amount instead of guessing...i think the 254cc is 28oz and 420cc is 38oz
I usually drill a small hole in the dipstick close to the full mark. This makes it much easier to see whether you're close to the full mark. Usually have to file any burrs from one or both sides of the stick. Makes it easier on my old eyes!
Try waiting a few minutes before reinserting the dipstick after filling. Let the oil run down the filler tube into the sump so the stick doesn't get coated as much. Same thing happens if you try checking the oil right after shutting off the engine.
Try flipping your dipstick over a few times and you will get used to the difference of seeing where the level really tops off at. Oftentimes the dipstick will be shiny with oil way over the full mark on one side and on the other you can see where it's not smooth-looking oil. That's the side to check the "real" level on.
You might have to do this a few times to get used to it.
I think the problem is that once oil is added via the dipstick tube, it takes a while for the residual oil to clear from the tube and settle down into the engine. I would wipe the stick clean, leave the stick out, (cover the top of the tube with something to avoid contamination) and the let the machine sit for several hours before checking the level. Put the stick in/out just once and make sure you have good lighting, perhaps even a flashlight. Look toward the edges of the dipstick and on both sides as suggested here. Sometimes it's easier to see the level toward the edges.
Another thing to try if those suggestions don't work above on viewing oil level.
Normally old shirts of mine graduate to the garage to be used as grease rags. My eyes are pretty good but sometimes it is tough to tell oil level on the various equipment or vehicles.
One of my tricks I tend to do is pull the dipstick with one hand, have a white shirt in the other, and lay it directly on the shirt with a little bit of pressure and then roll it over.
This will leave oil residue on the white shirt which is easy to read and gives you also a good indicator of where your oil was measuring. Sometimes I will do it a second time to confirm.
Sanding the bottom part of the metal dipstick helps me see the oil level between the holes that show high and low oil levels. I check the oil level before starting the engine on a regular basis. Easy to see the oil level when the oil fill tube is dry.
I use thin synthetic oil and change the engine oil when it is cold. After changing the oil it takes several hours for the level to settle and oil on the sides of the oil fill tube to drain down. Then remove the dipstick and check the oil level and adjust as necessary. I don't have any time constraints so it works for me.
The dipstick on my LCT engine, 369 CC has no lettering, just two holes in it, which if I'm assuming correctly, the bottom hole means add oil & the top hole means full. The manual doesn't tell you anything!
The LCT manual implies the dipstick has markings (not holes) that define the oil level and has an "ADD" mark based upon the level from a fully screwed in dipstick. My dealer said to keep the oil level between the two holes. The experienced users on this forum told me the lower hole is the low mark and the upper hole is the high mark.
I Always leave room when changing my oil,to be able to add a few ounces of Mystery Oil. I'm an old guy,and Ive always used it. Not only does it make the oil easier to see,it good for the machine! And-Yes Sea Foam,is a good thing.
Yesterday I lubed and changed the oil on my RapidTrak Hydro 28 Pro. Yep - the oil dipstick kept coming out all wet. Obviously it was from the residual oil in the tube.
I tried everything! Pulled it out quick then slow, left it in a long time, then a short time, twisted it around, jiggled it up and down. Squinted, cursed and decided to leave it and ponder. Looking closely at the stick I could see that the bottom was completely covered with oil, and a bit farther up toward the top hole there were a few places where the oil had only coated the edges. I figured where the oil 100% completely covered the dipstick was where the oil was for sure.
This morning as I was on the way out to walk the dog I pulled the dipstick out . . . voila! it was right on the mark. Apparently it takes quite some time for the oil to drain out of the fill tube enough to get a good reading. That is a good reason for doing this chore in April and not November
Did I mention that I also did a full lubrication as called for in the manual? Well I did. It was a pain. Especially the part about removing a drive wheel to get at a bearing zerk. Which one of you guys experienced with these RapidTraks can tell me what needs to be done to re-align the tracks and be sure track tension is OK. The manual is silent on this issue. I just slapped it back together until it looked sorta like when I started.
Did I mention that I also did a full lubrication as called for in the manual? Well I did. It was a pain. Especially the part about removing a drive wheel to get at a bearing zerk. Which one of you guys experienced with these RapidTraks can tell me what needs to be done to re-align the tracks and be sure track tension is OK. The manual is silent on this issue. I just slapped it back together until it looked sorta like when I started.
You should probably start a new thread with your question on track adjustment. A new thread on this subject will catch the eye of some Rapidtrack owners who may have your answer.
The parts manual for your machine shows a plate with a long slot for adjustment of the small rear wheel. So adjust that wheel to the same position as the wheel that was not removed. That should give you equal track tension on both tracks. I don't know how to measure the tension since I cannot see any reference in the owner manual.
If your manual for your engine/ do not just rely on blower model # check engine #s calls for however many oz of oil add that to your machine, then start your blower let it run a few minutes to warm up then shut it off. let it sit , then check the oil. Normally risidual dirty oil will combine with new and makes it easy to read and then you can verify levels. and top off as needed.
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Snowblower Forum
461K posts
34.5K members
Since 2010
A forum community dedicated to Snowblower owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about brands, maintenance, reviews, troubleshooting, repairs, accessories, classifieds, and more!