Epic Fail... - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
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post #1 of 28 Old 12-16-2013, 08:11 AM Thread Starter
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Epic Fail...

So it was my first time out with the "new" 1979 Ariens this weekend.

Saturday afternoon, I tried to do a quick clean of the carb, because the engine was not running without the choke on 1/2-3/4. I removed the main screw and bowl to clean both. When I was reassembling, I noticed (thank god) that the needle had fallen off the float and onto the ground. I spent 15 minutes trying to figure out how the F I was going to put it back together upside down without taking the carb off. I ended up getting that back together, and shockingly, the engine started right up.
Next, what I thought might be a frozen butterfly on was really a frozen throttle cable, nothing I did would make the thing budge. I noticed that the throttle seemed to be stuck around 1/4, which probably wasn't going to be effective for snow removal, so I adjusted the throttle cable to about 1/2 throttle. Things seemed to improve initially. I called it a night and waited for the snow.

Then the snow came... Initially the blower was getting jammed quite a bit so I readjusted the throttle cable to about 2/3, and it seemed do the trick.
After a while, I found that the engine was surging slightly(not sure if this is the right term). I stopped to fill the gas tank (I put maybe 1/2 a gallon in, which was the most I'd ever put in) and talk to a neighbor. When she left, I turned back to the snowblower, which had gas POURING out of the bottom of the carb (and onto my driveway)... I grabbed a bolt and pliers and plugged the gas line. The culprit seemed to be the drain plug on the bottom of the carb bowl. This thing never leaked gas before. I wasn't quite finished with the driveway, but I quit because I didn't know what to do with the leaking bowl. I feel kind of like a dope, because I probably messed up the drain when I took the bowl off the day before.

So, at this point, I think I'm going to pick up a new bowl (WITHOUT a drain) and get a throttle cable so I can adjust the throttle without taking off the housing that covers the carb... Since it's supposed to snow again tomorrow, I'm going to PM jackmels and see if he has the parts (since he's local to me, I think).

Sorry for such a long story.. I was really happy with the Ariens for the time that it was actually working, and I fault myself for not being more mechanically inclined with regards to it breaking down. I suppose I just have to improve next time!
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post #2 of 28 Old 12-16-2013, 08:23 AM
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for the drain it is a simple rubber washer that you put on the drain pin. but the bowl has to come off again. if you look at the drain from the outside you will notice it has a notch where you would compress the spring and slide the retainer to one side and it comes off.

since you had the gas line blocked anyway its easier to tilt the blower on its front end to do the float instead of trying to do it upside down.

over time the drain pin will wear a spot in the rubber where it will sit. if it gets bumper and does not sit back in that spot it will leak. sometimes you can just push lightly on the drain a couple time to get it back into its spot.
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post #3 of 28 Old 12-16-2013, 09:27 AM Thread Starter
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It's frustrating because I don't have a garage, and the access to my basement is in the back of the house where I have to tromp through the snow, so I'm left to work on the snow blower on my deck. It's not ideal, and it SURE IS COLD!
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post #4 of 28 Old 12-16-2013, 09:35 AM
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The old 1970's Ariens manuals say to leave the throttle in the "run" position when you put the snowblower away for the day..but they didnt say *why*!

I now know why! from experience..

When im done for the day, I shut down the snowblower in the driveway, and brush off all the snow..(as much as possible)..Fire it back up, wheel it into the garage under power, then shut it down..you normally turn off a running snowblower by moving the throttle lever down to "stop" to shut off the engine..

What happens if you leave it in "stop" and the cable then freezes?
its frozen in the "stop" position! and wont start!

But what happens if you shut off the engine, then move the throttle back up to "full run" position immediately? (after the engine is off) If the cable then freezes, its frozen in the "run" position, and you can still start and use the snowblower even if the cable is frozen solid! (if it *stays* frozen you might have to then shut it off by closing the fuel shut-off valve..but just using it might un-freeze the cable)

So for that reason, always move the throttle back up to "run" right after you turn off the machine..so even if it does freeze, its frozen in a good way!

Scot


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post #5 of 28 Old 12-16-2013, 09:43 AM
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Your needle/float may be out of adjustment and not stopping the file flowing in, just allowing it to run out of the carb. IMO, pull the carb, rebuilt it and make the correct adjustments, and you problems should go away (and roll up the throttle cable and put it in a bath of wd40 to free it up).
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post #6 of 28 Old 12-16-2013, 09:48 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sscotsman View Post
The old 1970's Ariens manuals say to leave the throttle in the "run" position when you put the snowblower away for the day..but they didnt say *why*!

I now know why! from experience..

When im done for the day, I shut down the snowblower in the driveway, and brush off all the snow..(as much as possible)..Fire it back up, wheel it into the garage under power, then shut it down..you normally turn off a running snowblower by moving the throttle lever down to "stop" to shut off the engine..

What happens if you leave it in "stop" and the cable then freezes?
its frozen in the "stop" position! and wont start!

But what happens if you shut off the engine, then move the throttle back up to "full run" position immediately? (after the engine is off) If the cable then freezes, its frozen in the "run" position, and you can still start and use the snowblower even if the cable is frozen solid! (if it *stays* frozen you might have to then shut it off by closing the fuel shut-off valve..but just using it might un-freeze the cable)

So for that reason, always move the throttle back up to "run" right after you turn off the machine..so even if it does freeze, its frozen in a good way!

Scot

That's awesome advice, but I have a feeling this throttle cable was frozen for years before I came to own it. Once I replace the cable, I will certainly follow this way of doing it.
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post #7 of 28 Old 12-16-2013, 09:49 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray 1962 10ML60 View Post
Your needle/float may be out of adjustment and not stopping the file flowing in, just allowing it to run out of the carb. IMO, pull the carb, rebuilt it and make the correct adjustments, and you problems should go away (and roll up the throttle cable and put it in a bath of wd40 to free it up).

Thanks Ray, my confidence is not super high right now. And with regards to the carb, I'm not sure if it's in my league to do a total rebuild. I think I might end up having to bring it somewhere to have them fix it for me. Which, begs the question, if I'm going to pay someone $100+ to rebuild the carb, should I just buy a predator 212 and stick that on there??
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post #8 of 28 Old 12-16-2013, 10:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ajpleblanc View Post
Thanks Ray, my confidence is not super high right now. And with regards to the carb, I'm not sure if it's in my league to do a total rebuild. I think I might end up having to bring it somewhere to have them fix it for me. Which, begs the question, if I'm going to pay someone $100+ to rebuild the carb, should I just buy a predator 212 and stick that on there??
You can do it, it's not that hard really. There is a lot videos out there to help you through it. You can always try it, if you fail then pay someone.
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post #9 of 28 Old 12-16-2013, 12:31 PM
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I would hold off on doing an engine swap, I like my predator but if I could kept the original engine I would have. If you're not confident in your own ability to get the carb cleaned & tuned, jackmels is only about a 30 minutes from you and he does repairs as well, he'll get it purring for you.
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post #10 of 28 Old 12-17-2013, 07:11 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HJames View Post
I would hold off on doing an engine swap, I like my predator but if I could kept the original engine I would have. If you're not confident in your own ability to get the carb cleaned & tuned, jackmels is only about a 30 minutes from you and he does repairs as well, he'll get it purring for you.
That's my aim. The machine looks very clean, I bet it just needs the hand of an expert and it will run just fine. I wish I'd done this in August!
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