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post #1 of 9 Old 01-23-2016, 07:53 PM Thread Starter
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Finally fixed!

After fighting with my 1999 Ariens and it's Tecumseh 8HP I finally beat the problem. 3 carburetors later and a few other parts the valve lash was the problem.


I need to go out again tomorrow, but I did my own stuff and 2 other neighbors with it this afternoon and even with not so fresh gas it ran good the entire time. Strong until the end.

Though, it pulled a polar express near the end and "Ah! Jumping jeepers, the cotter pin sheared off!" I lost my chute control. I may or may not have yelled at when it happened.

But I'll fix that tomorrow when I pull it back out of the crawl space and do everything all over again.

1999 Ariens 924108 824SLE.

1933 GE Monitor Top refrigerator restoration video

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post #2 of 9 Old 01-23-2016, 07:55 PM Thread Starter
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Just to recap, the problem was it would run great until it had a heavy load on it for some time. After that, it would start acting like it was running lean, missing, running terrible etc.

But it never did it unless it had a heavy load on it so I could never test it without a good amount of snow. What a pain in the gluteus maximus to troubleshoot!


Exhaust valve lash was around 0.006" or a hair less. I was able to pull the feeler gauge into the gap, but not push it. I opened it to around 0.010" and opened the intake to 0.008"

1999 Ariens 924108 824SLE.

1933 GE Monitor Top refrigerator restoration video

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post #3 of 9 Old 01-23-2016, 08:00 PM
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Yea, a lot of those Tecumseh L-heads seem to have that issue. Once they heat up the exhaust valves expand and no longer fully close. They need to be ground down slightly and lapped.

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post #4 of 9 Old 01-23-2016, 08:04 PM Thread Starter
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Yea, a lot of those Tecumseh L-heads seem to have that issue. Once they heat up the exhaust valves expand and no longer fully close. They need to be ground down slightly and lapped.

I got away without lapping. I bought the tool and compound but when I took it apart at least visually it looked like it was sealing good. Also the fact it ran so strong 90% of the time lead me to believe it was sealing good. I guess I didn't let it go long enough to cause damage.

I decided to keep the compound away from everything as it seemed like it could do more harm than good if it wasn't needed.


So far, I'm happy!

1999 Ariens 924108 824SLE.

1933 GE Monitor Top refrigerator restoration video

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post #5 of 9 Old 01-23-2016, 08:12 PM
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Yea, I have heard you need to be careful not to get it on the valve stem or you will wear that out and cause the valve to fit too loose and wobbly and probably start sucking oil through it.

I feel that running will probably lap them slightly as they beat into each other.

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post #6 of 9 Old 01-24-2016, 02:54 PM Thread Starter
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Used the machine for 3 hours today and had some minor hiccups.
It stalled once, sounded like you cut the spark and it just died, bad. After sitting it started but it would only run slow, give it any throttle and it'd die. I assume ice in the carb or perhaps some water in the fuel, but it cleared up.

Next issue was the cotter pin I had in the chute rod broke, as did the second one but now I see it calls for a hairpin, so that'll be fixed next. Right now I have a trim nail in it.

Final thing was 2nd in reverse became a bit weak, wheels would stop if the blower was stuck under \ in a lot of snow. All forward speeds worked good and strong, so not sure why only reverse?


The machine ran long and hard today and got the job done. It sure beat the crap out of me too. The hardest parts by far are driveway entrances where the snow is packed and wet-ish from salt on the road.

1999 Ariens 924108 824SLE.

1933 GE Monitor Top refrigerator restoration video

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post #7 of 9 Old 01-24-2016, 03:03 PM
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Glad you kept her going Chris! The EOD stuff gets like concrete very quickly in that kind of weather - get at is a soon as you can before it starts to cement itself in place! ;>P I think this spring would be a good time to give the old girl some love with a light rebuild and some new parts. I bet she still has a lot to give....



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post #8 of 9 Old 01-24-2016, 05:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisJ View Post
Used the machine for 3 hours today and had some minor hiccups.
It stalled once, sounded like you cut the spark and it just died, bad. After sitting it started but it would only run slow, give it any throttle and it'd die. I assume ice in the carb or perhaps some water in the fuel, but it cleared up.
That seems odd. Maybe drain the tank and give it fresh gas? It's at least a fairly easy thing to try.

Quote:
Final thing was 2nd in reverse became a bit weak, wheels would stop if the blower was stuck under \ in a lot of snow. All forward speeds worked good and strong, so not sure why only reverse?
Have you adjusted the transmission? Does it have 1 reverse speed, or 2? You implied 2 reverse speeds, but just checking. If the closest speed to neutral doesn't really do much, I'd suspect that the transmission needs to be adjusted. In that gear, if barely moving, the friction disk might be positioned almost at the center of the aluminum disk that drives it. It could be that the forward speeds are all too fast, and the reverse speeds are too slow, with reverse 1 being almost nothing.

But if reverse 1 is OK, and reverse 2 doesn't really work, that might be something else.

Quote:
The machine ran long and hard today and got the job done. It sure beat the crap out of me too. The hardest parts by far are driveway entrances where the snow is packed and wet-ish from salt on the road.
I'm glad it got things taken care of for you!

I did have to grind down a valve (I *think* it was exhaust) on my '93 Tecumseh HMSK80. Similar to yours, it had too little valve clearance, though it wasn't yet running poorly under a load. I did not lap the valve after grinding down the length, and it seemed to be fine.

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post #9 of 9 Old 01-24-2016, 11:09 PM Thread Starter
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The gas I was running was a year old but still smelled fairly decent and ran good.
The issue may have been yesterday I filled it while it was snowing out and some may or may not have got in the tank (I know, I know!)

I emptied it today running it and refilled it with day old gas.

Transmission works in 1st and 2nd in reverse, just reverse doesn't seem to have the muscle the forward speeds do. I'm planning on doing an oil change and pulling the bottom cover tomorrow so I'll check the alignment and clutch adjustment as well as inspect the friction disc.


Even running Mobil 1 I noticed some white goop in the top of the dipstick tube so there was some moisture in the oil from sitting. It'll do it good to get another fresh batch of oil.

One thing is for sure, if I ever do replace the engine it won't be with my 6.5HP Honda GX series. I want more power, not less even if some say the 6.5 is the same. I'd go with an 8HP Honda clone or maybe even a 10HP. The EOD pile is 90% of the reason I have a blower. We live on a state highway that gets plowed and salted constantly. I end up with snow well over the box height and it's 3 feet deep (length wise) to the road. Working under those conditions you can tell the 8HP Tecumseh is maxed out the entire time.

I did mine, and two of our neighbors today one of which has a 3 car wide driveway.

Before I got this, my wife was planning on buying a $500 Home depot blower. I told her today there's no way we can ever do that as I see neighbors with cheap blowers and they don't even come close to the 824 Ariens.

When you start going into the EOD pile that is 20"+ high you can really see the difference between the Ariens and a cheap machine. I know many argue friction disc machines aren't as good as hydrostatic or actual geared transmission machines but it also seems all friction disc transmissions aren't created equal either.

1999 Ariens 924108 824SLE.

1933 GE Monitor Top refrigerator restoration video

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Last edited by ChrisJ; 01-24-2016 at 11:12 PM.
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