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Old 10M-L60D - Need help changing friction plate

2K views 7 replies 5 participants last post by  Kiss4aFrog 
#1 ·
Hi All,

I have an old 10M L60D ('64-'64) that I have mostly refurbished, including a new engine. Runs great, but I am having trouble replacing the friction plate. The older model has the plate shaft mounted on both ends, so it looks like I need to completely tear down most of the drive train to access it. The available literature and parts diagrams are little help. Has anyone replaced one of these? Any help would be greatly appreciated as this is the only hurdle left for me to really get a lot of use out of an otherwise great machine.

Thanks!
Travis
 
#2 ·
Travis --

Yes, if I remember correctly, most of the innards needs to come out from our older Ariens to replace the drive disc. I distinctly remember getting me finger caught between two pieces of the drive train when I was putting one back together. It was not my favorite activity, although I probably should do another change on my own 68.
 
#3 ·
Thanks! Luckily I managed to get through most of the snow from today's blizzard (I'm in DC) before the last of the rubber let go. Hopefully the rest of the season will be light. Funny, I actually have the part, but decided since it was working (just worn) I would put of replacing it. Unfortunately, the entire rubber ring delaminated from the metal and came off! Guess I have a new Spring project...
 
#4 ·
If you wanted a glue to attached the rubber on the friction disc back to its metal backing, and thus attempt to get through the season, I can't say enough about using MarineTex for such an application. While MarineTex is technically "epoxy resin plus filler" this stuff with grab and bond anything - forever. I've attached the glass on review view mirrors to its corresponding rubber backing when it is literally 10 degrees outside and had the product - and the glass - last for 4-5 years....

Link: Marine-Tex Epoxy
 
#5 ·
:welcome: to the forum tgvaught


Yup, the guts need to come out to do it. It's not easy but it's just a matter of diving in and getting it done.

I think yours is different from the one in the video and I remember seeing the photos of an old one where the whole assembly had to come out but I can't find it.

Maybe Scot will be along and he knows where it's at.

This might be of some help:
 
#6 · (Edited)
Morning,

I have the 10M4 that I just changed the friction disk on. I believe my 10M6 is the same setup. I put new B&S on the 10M4 years ago and just pit the 212 Predator on the 10M6, which btw runs fantastic.

It is a PITA (pain in the ass) for sure. Just about the entire drive assembly has to come apart. Chain off, wheel off, clutch fork slide assembly, etc. etc.. A few of the harder points to keep in mind was the spring and the long bracket pin gets sized in its housing, which required flexing the entire scoop housing slightly to remove. I found it easier to remove the engine and flip machine over. I have taken some photos of the reassembled unit, did not even think of taking photos of the dis-assembly process, as I probably should have looking back, in order to help others.

Take this time to also inspect and lubricate, being extremely careful not to get any lube on the new friction wheel or plate. Common sense and good judgement will prevail with this undertaking, just give yourself some time to do it right.

I have enclosed a few photos of the reassembled unit.
 
#7 ·
All-

Thanks for the recommendations! I'll check out the vid and compare the pics to my machine. Later this spring when I do the teardown I'll see about doing my own vid and posting it...hopefully it will help others. Luckily, since I already mounted a new B&S engine on it, I already have plenty of practice removing the engine :)

Thanks!!!!
 
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